Emily Rusnak

Thanks so much for your post. Actually there is a ton of code for potable and wastewater in Vermont (all from the state), but we were just curious what others have used in their own applications given these constraints. We will definitely be contacting local installers once we have some sense of what might be possible in this application.

Funny enough, we've gone the route of calling local installers first for advice on non-standard projects. An example, to get advice on a more atypical foundation--we were interested in using a non-traditional foundation on a build in central Vermont (totally off-grid "hunting camp"; no water or septic). If you drive around, you see many different foundation types that have been used successfully on old and brand new builds (literally a non-homestead/seasonal neighbor down the road just build a new single family home with screw piles). We called several different local companies that install foundations and all of them stated that our couple of options we were eyeing (post and pier foundation; helical screw piles) were impossible, impractical...some even suggesting it would be detrimental to the build (which isn't true--there are companies in other parts of the state that specialize in these methods). It's not that it is impossible...it's just impossible to people who use extremely traditional means to install components for homes.

Greetings all,

We are considering a property that is decidedly off-grid and a little difficult to reach with equipment (not high elevation!) for installing a septic system. Anyone have knowledge about systems that the state of Vermont would approve that might work for this application? We are looking at between a 12x12 and 12x16 footprint for the building. Wood stove, no electric service. Could install solar if needed (but batteries in this situation would be iffy, I think).

Hoping to use up to around 180 days in the year across all 4 seasons. We'd really love to have this place be offered through Vermont Huts Association when we aren't there, so I'd like to make sure we have appropriate on-site septic. This property is in a town with no local zoning ordinances (and all water/sewer is relegated to the state anyway).

We have Rad E-bikes and we really love them. My husband and I have RadWagons and our daughter has a Mini step-over. They are an exceptional way to get around as a commuter, are economical to purchase (they sell for $1499 and they often run sales). We got the racks and such for our bikes but ended up using aftermarket hacks to get the bikes just as we like them (an aftermarket rack for the back of our daughter's bike + 2 panniers with a lock down back on top; for the Wagons, we added 2 Kingsford charcoal storage bins on each side to make "trash canniers", which hold up to 25 pound-sized bags worth of materials. We strap down things on the rear as well with bungies).

All in all, an exceptional purchase. Finding the right gear to support your ride as a commuter safely is important, as many others have mentioned. A great lock is an essential...everyone asks about these bikes when we ride in our area (a town with good bike infrastructure and lots of bikers...people are always very curious of the bikes!). Our range is about 15 miles one way safely, hauling weight, but that ends up with a half full battery, give or take. We have nearly ditched our car, save for poor weather or the intense cold (and poor back roads right where we live, which are traditional "Michigan dirt" roads).

There is a good Rad owners group on Facebook, too, you can check out. Very helpful info and you can see what the issues are (which aren't many, to be honest).

Greeting all.

We have an area on our property (about 1/3 acre) that used to be "yard" that we let grow out for many years, mostly as habitat for critters. It ended up also inviting a lot of ticks toward the house, so we started scything it several years back with the rest of the yard and using the hay as mulch for the garden. It is a mix of grasses, yarrow, plantain, dandelion, a small amount of vetch and clover, and some other "weeds" that I'm not familiar with by name. Yarrow is the predominant other plant outside of grasses (I'd say the grass is probably 30% of the cover; 30% is yarrow, and the rest round out the remainder). We also have a couple of hives in this area as well. And, we are in SE Michigan (zone 6a/5b).

We were planning on thatching this area this year and considered overseeding with a pasture mix, to improve the diversity of the plants in this space and possibly increase the nutrients that go into the garden soil. However, this is definitely outside of my own personal experiences and expertise, so I was curious what others thought, especially what might be good for overseeding for soil fertility in the garden from the hay. I thought alfalfa and more clover would be good (good bee plants, too), but am looking for info from folks who are more expert as pastures and hay qualities for garden mulch.

Many thanks!

FYI, stinging nettle has exceptionally high magnesium (50.7 mg per cup; spinach is 23.7 mg per cup as a comparison). Steamed or cooked, nettle is rendered harmless and is a great green taste-wise. Just make sure you cook it!  

There is someone in KY who has done an earthship home. They have a Facebook page and I'm sure would be quite helpful. They are in the Lexington area, from their FB page.

Good luck with it! Beautiful area of the country.

That might actually work! I figure for plants around the house, the settling issue would not be as big of an issue, as we would mulch around the plant, etc.

Tyler Ludens wrote:"Flowers make a cheap house look expensive." - Randy Roberts, one of Jacksonville's two Punks in the 70s.

(anecdote from my husband)

Made me laugh!

S Bengi wrote:I would just compost the twig/mulch and then use the compost in the grass area.
It would settle even thus easier to maintain and it would make the grass "greener" and hold less water next to your foundation.
I would use the hugelkultur for the "NATIVES" that you want to plant.
With the mulch on top it will look better and more landscaped.

It seem that you partially doing this to increase the re-sale value so I would add some flowers too. Cheap grill, maybe some solar light. A shade cloth/grape vine arbor/trellis patio. Not too sure what the kiddos would like.

Hmmm, not so much. We need to replant the area after destroying in from renovations and I wondered about ways to effectively increase the soil quantity and quality around the house (we are "blessed" with clay-rich soil around here). We would obviously like for the exterior to look nice (we are dumping a gagillion dollars into renovating the exterior LOL), but the hugelkutur idea sprang from the desire to increase/improve the soil. However, the idea of more water around the foundation did not even occur to me! My hope was to lessen the amount of water that is retained close to the house by sloping, etc.

Best to keep the hugelkultur in the yard, I believe!

Tyler Ludens wrote:My buried wood beds have settled unevenly, which is fine for my vegetable garden because I can keep adding material on top to even it out, but might in a lawn result in something lumpy and difficult to mow....

I wondered about that. That was one of my bigger concerns....