Kevin Prata wrote:I'm curious about adding two additional barrels on top of the usual barrel design, to work as stored heat radiators, similar to a masonry stove like a Finnish or Swedish Kakelugn.
The idea here is to have the first inner barrel sitting 2 or 3 inches above the riser, then have another barrel over that one forcing the radiant heat downward, then another barrel two or three inches above that one, with a gap at the bottom, radiating heat up to the top again, and finally a flue exiting out the top rather than the bottom.
Will this improve the overall design, or diminish it? See image here.
jacob green wrote:
Someone really needs to figure out how to burn 6-8 foot fuel in the feed tubes to reduce the amount of refills during the day. I present several ideas in that thread. Maybe you will think of something to add.
Kevin Prata wrote:Hi Dale, et al
Good morning. Do you still have fire brick and or ceramic heat riser(s)? I am considering one or the other or both for my first rocket stove. I was going to build the core and riser both with refractory mortar mixed with vermiculite or perlite, but the fire brick might be simpler. I am working on a 6" system. Please me know!
G Fischer wrote:Thanks for replies. Nice to meet you both.
My system starts all brick, like so many seen, and is 4.5" dia. I then
have a 6" steel riser, 11 3/4 tin insulating cover, with vermiculite/slip
insulation, a 40" high propane bell with removable top that is lipped
and sealed with fiberglass rope
(Yes, I smoke checked the top for leakage. Don't see minute leakage,
through the rope fibers at this seal, as a big deal on a down draft system this low on flow.)
Thanks for any future input!
Here are pics on my general combustion area:
John Elliott wrote: "4. Is there an ideal ratio for the inner dimensions of the core/heat riser/exhaust? Are there any rules dimension-wise which are especially critical while there is room for experimentation elsewhere? In particular, is the diameter of the airflow path the SAME ALL THE WAY THOUGH the system? Or do you need the exhaust portion of the path to have larger diameter than the core/riser to create lower pressure on the back end, to let the gasses slow down and get burned rather than being rocketed out the chimney cap before getting burned"
Kevin Prata wrote:Hi Matt -
What ratio of furnace cement are you using? Just curious. I was (am) planning on a vermiculite + refractory mix at a 4:1 ratio.
Matt Walker wrote:
Troy Fairclough wrote:
this is the mixture i am using
very similiar to the one posted in your video which i have also watched, but i think it will be harder and more durable.
Hi guys, that's my cast core video you linked to. Just a quick note, I've tried the backyard metal casting mix exactly as written there. It turns to powder after not very long as the heat breaks the bond in the portland. I'd strongly recommend leaving Portland out of any of the real hot areas.