Justin White

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since Jan 27, 2014
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Recent posts by Justin White

Two springs ago I planted some tubers I received from Joseph in an area of field grass that I was hoping could become a no maintenance sunroot area. The grass of course grew tall and last year I never saw any sunroots in that area, so I thought perhaps they never got established. But this year they grew up to about 7' tall to overtake the grass! I have them growing out of perhaps 10 spots in the ground, with some of the spots having just one stalk but some having 2 or 3. Since the planting is young and I want it to get well established to compete against the grass do you think I should just leave them be until next fall, or should I dig some up this year for harvest? Thanks!
3 months ago
Hello Nick,

If you still have seeds, I would be very interested in getting some. Your site seems almost like a twin site to mine so it would be interesting to trial the seeds here to see how it compares to yours. I'm in zone 3b (Northern Wisconsin), on a very wet site with heavy loam soil with a very high water table. Last year the water table was within 6" of the soil surface for a time in the spring. That was exceptional but the water table is commonly within a couple of feet of the soil surface. Our orchard is mainly planted with Bud-118 but I've been struggling lately as a lot of the trees are declining due to what I think may be crown rot. This year I planted some Antonovka so I'll see how that goes but your rootstock really seems ideal for our site. I'm interested in all your apples but especially OCM-21 as a rootstock. Thanks!
I have although it's been a while. Does he talk about alder in that, or do you just mean nitrogen fixing trees in general?
8 months ago
Our property has a ton of speckled / tag alders growing everywhere. They are multistemmed shrubs that form big thickets. From what I read, these fix quite a bit of nitrogen. I'm thinking about planting some fruit trees in that area and am wondering if anyone has any ideas of strategies to use in order to take advantage of the nitrogen fixing ability of the alders. What do you think of removing some of the alders and planting fruit trees in their place, while keeping other nearby alders to provide nitrogen to the fruit trees? How far away do you think an alder should grow from a fruit tree? Should I prune the suckers of the alders to make them grow in more of a tree form (which I've read they can do but I have not tried)? Any ideas are appreciated, especially if you have done something similar with alders. Thanks.
8 months ago
When do sunroots emerge from the ground? I planted some this spring and they aren't up yet, should I be worried yet? As a point of reference, I'm pretty far north, our apple trees are just finishing blossoming, it is the last average frost right about now and I think the soil temperature is about 50F. Thanks.
1 year ago
I know very little about raising pigs but do grow apples so this thread made me curious and I'm wondering, when you say that you store your apples as pork, how many apples can a pig eat? Is it their primary food during this time or more of a supplemental thing?
3 years ago
Thanks Jennifer, I will watch the video. I know it's funny, I shouldn't complain about having too much water when so many of you don't have enough, but I guess it just shows that there are probably very few places on earth that are perfect, we all just face different challenges.
3 years ago
I am building a new house in a rural area and it looks like they are going to make us put in a holding tank due to our high water table (which is common in our area). In the spring the water table is 6" to 1' from the surface. Now, it seems ridiculous and extremely expensive to have a giant pumping truck come every few weeks to haul away several thousand gallons of mostly water, rather than processing on site. My thought is, if I could limit the holding tank to black water and deal with the grey water separately that would greatly reduce the frequency of holding tank pumping.

I'm trying to figure out what the best way would be to do this. Our big constraints are that we live in a very cold climate (the average high stays below freezing for over 3 months of the year) and of course the high water table. I've been reading about grey water and it seems like many of the grey water systems for freezing climates deal with the effluent in a similar manner to a conventional septic, with a leach field, which is problematic because a leach field below the frost line would be below the water table for much of the year.

But certain techniques, like the constructed wetland, I'm not sure if it will work because of the freezing temperatures? The plants would not be active for half the year.

One constraint we don't have, which many people looking to do grey water do, is that we have no need to reuse the grey water for irrigation, as our problem is not having enough water, it is having too much.

Does anyone have any ideas for me to look into? Thanks.
3 years ago