Jay C. White Cloud wrote:Remember you can replace the straw with hemp hurd, sawdust, wood chip, ground or layered old felt carpet padding and even ground new paper (aka cellulose insulation) in various density configurations and forms. This entire "light cobb" system is very ancient in orgin and flexibility of design...
Jay C. White Cloud wrote:Absolutely you can!! I still would recommend a "rainscreen" system to mount your b&b to, but this type of finish is more that plausible. I would need to know more specifics to give and detail advice or make further recommendations...
This could not be more true! Improperly designed SB structures have serious potential issues, like any improperly designed structure, but a properly designed SB structure can last for 100's of years. here is a thread giving great examples of the durability of SB architecture.
Jennifer Meyer wrote: a primary concern with straw bale construction is humidity.
There are examples of well built SB homes in humid states like WA. It can be done no problem.
Jennifer Meyer wrote: I'm just south of you in NC, where I wouldn't even consider straw bale because of the high humidity. What the termites don't get, the mold will. You might want to treat your bales with a retardant or consider earth bag construction if you have a humid climate where you are.
Jack Edmondson wrote:Sarah,
I don't know much about straw bale; but I do know you can not substitute hay. Hay is 'greener' than straw. It has more organic matter and moisture. The hay will break down over time and lose volume and eventually return to soil. Straw is much more stable over a longer period. Also hay is 'wetter' than straw and will cause moisture/mold issues inside your walls. Straw has a very very low moisture content.
If you build with straw you will likely have to truck it in from a grower that specializes in high compression bales; or have someone custom bale the straw. The bales have to be around 900 to 1000 psi to make good building material. I have read the 'normal' baling pressure of straw bales is in the 400 psi range. Again, this is just from reading a few years back.
Terry Ruth wrote:Philip. am I missing something why not use the board and batten exterior as forms?
Terry Ruth wrote:I'd leave some ventilation gaps to ground and out the soffit_ridge vents behind the boards and battens so drying can occur in that direction if need be but, now form work has to be pulled...have large overhangs so water cannot get into the wall, slopes at least 30% grade. If it is super humid there and no wind I'd rethink that one. Understand how the coating's on fasteners are going to react with the mixes.