Jack Edmondson

Two steps.  First immediate.  Tractor with a subsoiler.  Rip down open the soil at the bottom of the trench.  Second over time.  All the organic matter you can find.  Wood chips, moldy hay bales, cardboard, leaf litter, grass clippings.  Get the soil the carbon it needs to help the microbes live and start breaking down the clay into plant food.  

Scott,

I would like to encourage you to build on your own.  There are a lot of resources on the net to pull from.  A 14'x42' is perfect for an additional dwelling.  You are correct.  The prices contractors are charging now is outrageous.  My older brother and I built his home where he has now retired, in 1987.  It was a two car garage 'kit' that he had them expand 8 feet on the back to accommodate a second bathroom.  I think he was all at less than $20k, well plumbing, electrical house and a/c.  He has never had a mortgage.   It was a first time for both of us; but we got it done.

You don't have to do it all yourself, electrical and plumbing can be contracted; or anything else you feel is not your skill set.  However, long rectangles are really easy to frame.  The foundation is already poured.  You are further along than one might think.

If you are willing to explore that possibility more, there is a lot of knowledge on here willing to help and support.  Is there anything in particular that would keep you from doing a simple one level home?

I am not sure it will be much of a deterent in the Bay Area, but one could always go Appalachian and post:  Private Property!  Trespassers will be violated.  

Small engine parts:  https://www.jackssmallengines.com

Automotive when I don't need them NOW:  https://www.1aauto.com

electrical wire:  https://www.wireandcableyourway.com  (when I need that sort of thing)

Plumbing and electrical:  Local Ace Hardware

If the door was manufactured and not fabricated on site, the likelihood that it is not square is small, especially one with a glass insert.  Take a string and run it diagonally from corner, diagonally, to corner.  The measurement will confirm if true or out of square.  (opposite diagonals of a rectangle will have exact lengths.)

Typically what happens when a door is not square is it is not been mounted properly in the frame and not the door itself 'out'.  I learned a trick from a home inspector a long time ago that stuck with me.  If you have ever seen a 'wonderbar', it is a framer's crowbar.  Take the end of the wonderbar and insert it under the frame on the side of the door that is 'low'.  step on the bar until the frame raises to 'level' with a spirit level.  It does not have to be perfect, just within your tolerance of sqaure.



With a tiny house the larger issue might be the foundation is not level causing the house frame to flex.  If you find other doors that are not square of windows that are 'sticky', you may need to level/shim the foundation.  

Do you have a grill or a smoker?  4 hours of smoke at low heat will give it great flavor.  Since it is completly cooked it should go quickly.  If it is sliced, spread on foil over the rack and put some hardwood chips on a few coals.  After fried turkey smoked is the best way to prepare.  

I like the 'pot pie' idea.  I will  have to try that.  I always pick up a bird after the holiday as they get marked down for later in the year.  I will have to try a 'pie'.  

James Bradford wrote:
If you guys have any suggestions for fruit bearing plants/trees that will do well in Houston climate ...I'm all ears.

Figs, any variety.  most will give 2 harvest per year.  Low chill hour peaches.  Any citrus trees.  You will lose the crop some years, but have abundance in others.  Banana trees but give them shelter.  The fruit does not make it many years, but it is still cool to see bananas on your trees some years.  Persimmons.  Look in the bottom lands and woods for native strains.  Pawpaw if you can find.  Grafted pecans.  Mulberry, white and red.  Strawberries, but protect them when it gets cool.  Blackberries, raspberries.  There are a few avocado species that are being refined to stand the 8b climate zone.  ask your extension agent for contacts at Texas A&M for information.  

The greater Houston area is around 500-600 hours.  Use that to shop for trees and research.  fruit with a rating over 500 are questionable but may produce some years.  The lower the number the more probability of success over the long run.  Houston Garden Center will have trees marked with chill hour ratings.  The Arboretum Society may also be able to help.  They have a tree sale once a year.  

Anne Miller wrote:Someone dropped an old trap off at the intersection the Ranch Road and the county road.

It is inviting ....

What would we do if we caught one?  Shoot it and then try to get it out of the trap  ... how?

Anne,

One does not want to kill the pig/s in the trap if possible.  Pigs sense of smell is legendary.  Trappers say once a hog has been killed in a trap it will never catch another.  The hogs are either removed into a larger corral or pulled from the trap to be dispatched.  It is not easy work as one might imagine.  Dogs are often used, but it is not for the feint of heart.  

I had a neighbor who trapped a small herd in a residential area to stop them from destroying everything from lawns to gardens.  He offered them a carrot at the gate, slipped a rope on a leg and pulled them out of the trap, while a second stood ready with a sorting board at the gate to stop others from rushing the gate uncontrolled.  He was able to dispatch about a dozen of various sizes this way without any lost in the trap.  

Also just went through this thread again and notice something missing.  Bleeding brakes.

What do you know about bleeding brakes?  After you work on your brakes you will need to get any air in the hydraulic lines out or you will have spongy brakes.  It is an easy procedure but requires a helper to press and release the brake pedal while the other to open and close the brake line 'valve'.  

Keys to remember:  Reduce the chance of air entering into the lines.  Keep the reservoir topped off at the master cylinder.  Don't let he brake calipers hang from the brake lines when you remove the rotors.  Use a coat hanger, wire, or rope tied off to the frame to support the caliper after removing from the rotor.  Start bleeding the wheels farthest (longest brake line) from the master cylinder.  when you step on the brake pedal an air bubble has the farthest to go in the longest line.  then work the opposite side of the car and work your way around to the wheel nearest the master cylinder.  It is messy work with your hands right next to the bleeder.  wear disposable gloves.  Open and close the bleeder quickly.  Make sure your helper does not release the brake pedal until you the bleeder is tight and you say so.  Otherwise the system works like a vacuum and suck more air into the line.  

Joylynn,

I always enjoy your intrepid attitude taking on these projects.  The 2nd picture in your last post it appears the rotors are scoring or gouging in towards the hub.  The first picture does not look bad.  However remember that the pad clamp down on both sides of the rotors so there are four contact surface, 2 per wheel; so we are only seeing two in the pictures.  Hard to be sure there is not further damage unseen.

In the old days the rotors (or disks) would be turned (cut) to a smooth surface for a small fee.  the cost, hassle, and liability to workers has made that a rare practice in auto parts houses.  Now they just sell you new rotors.  Rotors "should be" smooth flat surfaces for the brake pads to be most effective.  In a pinch I have thrown new pads on old rotors, but the cost (doing it yourself) is not worth doing the job a second time or prematurely.  Also brakes are important.  Why take chances.

Someone mentioned sticking calipers.  A very good point.  make sure the calipers are free to move as designed.  However, don't step on the brakes with the caliper off the rotor.  You might end up needing new parts as the pistons extend too far without resistance.  If you have not seen it done yet, use a c clamp or other clamp on the inside/inboard pad to press it steady and gently back into the caliper.  Then reattach the caliper over the rotor and have someone gently apply the brakes.  You should see the pads come together on either side of the rotor smoothly and evenly.  Then you will know they are not sticking.

Brakes are super simple to do once you get the hang of the procedures, except for this one little issue.  Shims and clips.  When you remove your pads from the calipers a lot of dust, road debris and possibly some metal "wafers" will fall out.  Save these.  remember/mark where they came from the best you can.  Same with 'clips'  These parts are there to help install the new pads into the calipers and keep them in place and in the appropriate plane.  It is often overlooked.  If they don't go back in the same, your pads may produce noise on the road.  If you can't, or are not sure, it is not a safety issue per se.  Your brakes will still work.  They just may wear more quickly or make noise.  But if you can get them back in the way they were, you will be happier.

Wear tabs were mentioned earlier.  I just wanted to make clear the pads have metal tabs on the ends that stick out towards the rotors.  As the pad material wears down, the tabs will start making contact with the rotors.  This is designed to give you an audible que the pads are worn and will need to be replaced.  The metal is softer than the rotor material, so they don't result in the scoring seen on rotors.  It just sounds bad and may make one think their pads are completely worn.  

Remember this with ramps as opposed to jack stands, how do you lift the tire off the ramp to remove the wheel?  ramps are good for giving oneself a bit more room under the car for repairs like oil changes.  They don't help if you have to pull a tire that is on the ramp.    Get good jackstands and use them every time, all the time.  don't rely on a jack.  A jack is a hydraulic lift.  That lift relies on little rubber o-rings to allow the fluid pressure to lift an object.  If you are under a car and the rubber oring fails, the full weight of the vehicle is coming down on you.  Don't bet your life on a 5 cent o-ring.

Have a good weekend, and take the advise "start early.  go slow.  document everything."