Jack Edmondson

I think your gut is right on this one, John.  If you don't need the land or have a use in mind, pass.  Or at least have the seller indemnify the land for potential environmental contamination.  I worked for a heavy indestrial oil equipment manufacturer.  The company destroy a prime piece of real estate on the outskirts of Houston with the varsol used to coat the threads of the pipes to keep them from rusting.  If you do pursue the sale, send a soil sample (several from random spots) to a lab for analysis.  Don't buy someone else's headache.  

I don't know how this forum is mixed between homesteaders and livestock producers or if there is a distinction.  But as I look into sheep more and more, I have this lingering question:  "where are people selling their sheep"?  I have encountered small producers marketing as CSA, and small farmers selling at local auction, with a few focused on selling registered stock to other would be breeders.

If a person raised 100 lambs a year or 1,000 is their a commodity market in the US?  I know as a consumer lamb is hard to find outside specialty meat shops and gourmet grocers.  AI searches tell me that the U.S. is one of the largest producers and consumers of lamb.  It also tells me that ranchers are marketing to specialized finishers/packers on contract.  Is that the way it goes?  Are there local markets aside from small local livestock auctions?

As with most things agriculture the rub seems to be in the marketing and less in the production.  In your experience where do you sell your stock?

I would imagine you have a young female that has strong maternal instincts.  After her first litter that will probably decrease.  I see it as a positive, although it could be a problem is she is over fixated.  Give her some time.

Joylynn,

Sorry for the short response.  I was at work.  Tonight if you can pull the battery and take it to your local parts store.  Have them bench test the battery.  Ask if they can do a load test and determine if there is a bad cell.  A damaged cell in the battery can cause the trickle discharge you mentioned.  When one cell is bad the surrounding cells in the series will try to balance the charge.  This causes a loss of charge.  The store will tell you if it is capable of holding a charge after they run it back up and do a load test.  A good tester will also identify if a cell is bad.  If the battery passes the load test, then your alternator needs to be bench tested (or replaced) next.  The same shop can do a bench test but it will have to be off the vehicle.  

If the battery is good (before you pull and test the alternator) ask if they will hook up their scanner.  They can pull the code and tell you what it means from the internet.  a Google search for the code will give you a lot of information.  It will save you some time.  

If the code comes back as a non electrical issue, then my guess would be to check your transmission fluid level and smell the dipstick for any burnt or foul smell.  ATF usually is strawberry/cherry red with a sweet smell.  Dark, black specs or smelly indicates a problem.  Low level just means it needs more fluid to in the torque converter to transmit power.  Let us know what you find and we can go from there.

Can't remember...standard or auto trans?  Gas or diesel?

Auto trans could be low fluid level in the torque converter.  

Low volts could be causing an issue with fuel injectors, but those usually just won't fire at all if below a certain volt level.  I have had an Accord that did that to me once due to bad battery.  Pulled out into traffic and it could not get out of its own way.  If a fresh battery does not fix it, it is likely in the fuel delivery system; but let's not get ahead of the curve.  

I should also mention that if it is due to a bad battery, the alternator is also suspect at this point.  It should be producing enough charge to keep the car performing.  Check to make sure it is generating a sufficient charge.  It may jut be the battery is a weak link in the system and the charge is getting derailed between alternator and fuel injector.  Replace the battery first.

Two steps.  First immediate.  Tractor with a subsoiler.  Rip down open the soil at the bottom of the trench.  Second over time.  All the organic matter you can find.  Wood chips, moldy hay bales, cardboard, leaf litter, grass clippings.  Get the soil the carbon it needs to help the microbes live and start breaking down the clay into plant food.  

Scott,

I would like to encourage you to build on your own.  There are a lot of resources on the net to pull from.  A 14'x42' is perfect for an additional dwelling.  You are correct.  The prices contractors are charging now is outrageous.  My older brother and I built his home where he has now retired, in 1987.  It was a two car garage 'kit' that he had them expand 8 feet on the back to accommodate a second bathroom.  I think he was all at less than $20k, well plumbing, electrical house and a/c.  He has never had a mortgage.   It was a first time for both of us; but we got it done.

You don't have to do it all yourself, electrical and plumbing can be contracted; or anything else you feel is not your skill set.  However, long rectangles are really easy to frame.  The foundation is already poured.  You are further along than one might think.

If you are willing to explore that possibility more, there is a lot of knowledge on here willing to help and support.  Is there anything in particular that would keep you from doing a simple one level home?

I am not sure it will be much of a deterent in the Bay Area, but one could always go Appalachian and post:  Private Property!  Trespassers will be violated.