Bryant RedHawk

garden master
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since May 15, 2014
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Part Nakota, part Irish. The Nakota took over long ago but still lives in two worlds, the European world and the first people's world. He lives on a small (15 + acres) piece of mother earth deep in the woods. Was trained in the cooper's arts as a child, since the family owned a cooperage. He has been a carpenter, and timber wright but love all aspects of farming.He holds a BS in Chemistry and Biology and a MS in Horticulture. Worked for the USDA for 16 years. Currently working on his PHD in Microbiology, the thesis is plant communication through the micro-biosphere network. Redhawk and his wife Wolf are setting up to be fully self sustaining, growing all their own foods and collecting rain water. "Soon we will be self sustaining and closer to being off the grid" he said when asked about future plans. They continue their own research both in Agriculture and soils with the hope to make the world more like it used to be, before mankind began screwing up the Earth Mother. This is the only way humankind will survive, we must fix what we have broken.
Vilonia, Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
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Recent posts by Bryant RedHawk

Those hill sides are perfect for using main line swale. berm and alleys on to hold the water for soaking in.
The stream looks like it would do well with a few connecting ponds via coffer dams for aquaculture too.

First thing to do is list out what all you want the land to provide food wise, then you can start the earthworks for controlling the rains when they fall so you don't have to irrigate any growing garden areas.
Think about what types of food trees you would want too, those go along with the swale, berm, alleyways construction.
If you don't have one, get a copy of Mark Shepard's book Restoration Agriculture, in this book he outlines how to control rain fall water by using the US adapted yeoman's method, which Mark developed on his own farm.

17 hours ago
I just got an email from David Good who just got finished watching it and gives it two thumbs up.
Knowing Marjory's penchant for food and growing your own food, I am sure it is very informative, I'll be watching it this evening.
17 hours ago
Mike, the sea buckthorn sends roots out to the side at a depth of around 18 inches so your rings would need to be at least 18 inches deep but probably closer to 20 inches deep would work best.
The alternative would be to snip any "volunteer" plants as they came up from the roots, that would be rather time consuming since you can't get in there with a mower.
Another alternative would be to scythe or use a string line trimmer.

I like your idea of the rings, just make sure they go deep enough to contain the roots so they have to go deep instead of spreading out to create runners.

If you plant to have these make a living fence, you might want them to spread in the area where you desire that fence and just snip off any "outliers".

19 hours ago
You did a good job of pruning except that you did leave some crossing canes.
Crossed canes will rub against each other in a wind and that will damage the "bark" which will create an opening for disease or insects, which is not a good thing.
Simple to fix, just go back through and remove the skinniest of the crossing canes, dip in a rooting solution and plant where you want new berry bushes to grow.

21 hours ago
Not at all Chris, since these effects are going on only during the vortex period you would still get the benefits.
I don't use a vortex barrel, I use a 1/2 inch drill with a paddle stirrer designed for mixing drywall mud.
While I am sure that a vortex barrel would perhaps be better because of the length of time the vortex would be held in motion, I am not convinced that the "stir up" needs to be continuous to work.
It seems to me that if we can bring the water to a vortex then let that subside, following with another vortex, that we might even get better benefit since the reactions come and go, giving a type of interval set of reactions.
During each of the active parts of the interval (the spin up into a vortex) we get the nano bonding reactions followed by a relaxing stage which is then whipped again into a vortex stage.
My thoughts on this is that by using an interval system of stirring up the vortex, the microorganisms have time for some recovery over those continuously whirling about with no time for recovery.

22 hours ago
hau Mike,

Worms are a great way to take care of kitchen scraps, the bins won't smell when done right and you end up with worm castings, one of the great soil builders.
Instead of using a "fertilizer" use spent coffee grounds, they do the same thing but are cheaper plus they add bacteria, fungi, slime molds to the compost mix, which is a good thing.
Trench composting is a good way to take care of excess kitchen waste but do add enough of the carbon elements or you will have vermin coming for a feast, which might create issues with neighbors.

23 hours ago
I would opt for something like an annual rye grass as a starter seed set, this is easy to get rid of once it has done the job of establishing roots and putting some exudates in the soil.
I would next lay down as much spent coffee grounds as I could get my hands on, right over the annual rye grass seed.
This will aid in drawing earthworms to the area, provide some bacteria and fungi along with some beneficial slime molds for a soil building boost.
Next I would try to make a compost tea or even a manure tea to water the area with, this will activate the soil microbes that are present and get them to working.
Once the annual rye shows that it can grow in the plot, you can overseed with a mix of buckwheat and vetch or any combination you have or want.

As you work on this plot, the more biological activators you can add, the faster the soil will remediate from the herbicides that came with the straw.
Things that help with this, besides the obvious mushroom spawn/hyphae are minerals applied in small quantities several times (around once a week to start then cut back to once a month).
Even things like DE, unbleached flour(both are used as light dustings) will bring items to the party that the soil microbes like to eat.

1 day ago
The effects of vortexes are very real and measurable, the problem is that these changes are occurring at such a rapid formation/disintegration rate that hundreds of these occur in a nanosecond.
What that means is that even though the changes do happen, they breakdown just as quickly, there is evidence of other reactions which occur during these fleeting moments that do continue to hold their positions.
So reports of crystalline structures forming, while true, don't last long enough to be able to be considered as significant (so far, things might change as the experiments progress).
The water itself is constantly in flux, causing bonding and breaking of bonds in substances in that water, so the lasting effects aren't actually the water but those substances suspended in the water.
This means that when we use a vortex brewer (as an example) there are chemical bonds between components of the compost tea which would not occur without the vortex brewer.
In these instances the vortex water seems to act more like an enzymatic catalyst for the brewing tea.

1 day ago
mushroom compost is super stuff for brewing a tea, you can also use it as a dressing around fruit trees and berry bushes.
The resulting hyphae network will really help just about every plant type nutrition wise.
1 day ago
Simply a work of Art in the construction world.

1 day ago