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Fred Tyler

gardener
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since Jan 04, 2015
Showed up for a PDC at Wheaton Labs and decided to stick around. He's now planning to build a passive solar/hobbity wofati on a deep roots plot at Wheaton Labs.
St Paul, MN/Tularosa, NM and now a gapper at Wheaton Labs
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Recent posts by Fred Tyler

Are we advertising a track without an instructor lined up?  I think that will turn out poorly?
2 weeks ago
By extracting more heat from the exhaust,  it is less eager to go up the chimney.  We didn't change the chimney at all, except for putting the second barrel and all of that resistance in the way. So, more heat was going out of the building = less efficient.
1 month ago
Welcome! Down at the bottom of each thread there's a reply button.
1 month ago
Your drawing addresses some of the problem with the dirt slumping off the back side, but my main concern is the eave edge. I don't quite see how your idea would work with the facade. The problem happening with this method at the Abbey is that the facade is a uniform height, but the dirt behind it isn't.  At the lower edge the dirt ends up higher than the eave edge and the water wants to move towards it.
1 month ago
The material coming out of a Jenkins system will not have any harmful pathogens, so is perfect for the food garden. Using it on your food garden will close the nutrient cycle, instead of always taking nutrients out of the soil. I used a Jenkins humanure system for a couple of years in Minnesota.  When I saw the amazing compost that came out, I would have been crazy to not use it on the food garden.

Joseph Jenkins has used it for exactly that purpose for decades on his home garden.
1 month ago
I would not put the back diagonal log at that steep of an angle. If I understand this right, it would make a much smaller attic. The main problem I see is that it would create a roof like the gable of the Abbey.  The angle is so steep, it is hard to get the water to move away from the eave instead of along it.
1 month ago
Just to clarify, the cottage rocket in the shop had a very strong draw before we added the second barrel.
2 months ago
i would like to make the following suggestions for changes to this BB:

the chopping block should not be tall. it should actually be much shorter than usual, so that the blade of the cracker is about the height of your normal chopping block. that way the top of the kindling-to-be will be at the normal height and you will not have a leverage disadvantage from trying to chop wood at shoulder height.

following from that, the cracker should not be offset on your chopping block. if you still need a chopping block for using a maul, axe, or hatchet, that is best done on a block that is a different height than that of the cracker (about the height of the blade). Also, if you have many inexperienced choppers (like we do at wheaton labs), then there is a chance that someone will miss the wood (or it will kick to the side) and the maul will hit the metal of the cracker.

i understand that paul wants all objects to be made for use by giants, but chopping blocks are safer and easier to use if they are the appropriate height for the most common user.
7 months ago
pep