Sylvain Couture

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since Mar 20, 2015
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Recent posts by Sylvain Couture

Glenn Herbert wrote:
An 8" system can handle up to 50' of duct (minus 5' per 90 degree elbow), so with a minimum of two elbows, you could have a 20' long bench. More elbows would mean a shorter bench.



if you got 50' of duct and 2 x 90 degree elbow, 40 feet of duct left no ?
9 years ago
Hello,

32 feet diameter in a round Yurt give more than 800 sq feet, I got like 100 feet of wall. Im near Québec city, 500 m elevation approx. In winter I can get some nigth at -30, -35 degree. The isolation of Yurt is near nothing, it's just a double thermofoil 1 sided aluminium.

The ductwork have to be think again for sure, but the vertical chimney exit is something to forgot I guess, I get a plexiglass ligth shaft of 5 feet in the middle, the compact version with mass in the middle is cool, but I need to put the chimney exit somewhere... if I put it just after the plexiglas lifgth shaft, at 5 feet of the middle of the Yurt, unless I will have to cut some of the trust. I can put the stove near the wall... but will loose some of the heat for sure...

I put some of my Yurt plans on the web : Yurt

For the floor support ( its near 50 concrete support) :



9 years ago
Hello all,

I'm building a 32' diameter Yurt at the moment, and I plan to put a rocket stove mass heater of 8 each in the middle of the Yurt. I did a plan, and the total height of the stove (with the barrel) would be close to 60 inch (maybe a bit more). I'm planning to put a mezzanine in the middle of the Yurt. The mezzanine floor will be at 7 feet height.



So I will get something like 24" beetween mezzanine floor and barrel of the stove. In the center of the mezzanine, I will make a trap to be able to fix the barrel on the stove etc (48" diameter). Did 24" will be enougth of cleareance ? Maybe I will need to put some insulation under the mezzanine floor ? in the middle of it. What did you think ? the mezzanine will be make of tamarack (larix laricina).

Thanks,
9 years ago
Yurt picture --> follow the link ! Yurt picture

Oh, well I installed my Yurt in end of October 2014, make the floor last winter, than oils the wood in summer etc. So this was my firt winter test I sleep in it for like 3 week and get catch by a nasty winder storm for 2 day long with 160+ km/hours wind with ligthning etc. It was a bit before Christmas, the canvas on the roof was gone, I return to get the manufacturer warranties etc. I solved the problem, but at the moment, nothing else except a pellet stove is in the Yurt. Ill go back to live in it in like 2 week.

I love the Yurt, I like the wood fence in X, im really not an artist, but everyone comment's find it so nice. You know, 32' diameter is pretty big ! its like 800 feet square on floor and you can add mezzanine too if you want more space, on my Sketchup drawing, its like 1000+ feet square where you can stand up + storage for lower side near the roof.

Now its up to you to know if you need more space or no but 2-3 person can easy live in a 1000 feet square space
9 years ago
In my first post, I put a link to my yurt design construction plans, etc, that was before I want to have a mass heater inside You can see how the floor is, build in 2x6 bolted and doubled with adjacent piece.

Hum, I maybe get soap stone realy cheap from a guys who worked in a mass stove industries before, if I understand your idea with the half-barrel bell, you suggest to create a larger 'air chamber' under the bed, so the heat of the ducting gonna heat the air in the barrel-bell instead of heating directly stone, less friction for sure, did it will stack more heat than stone ? ill need to read a bit more about it
9 years ago
About the thermal mass yep, Ill try to plan something better, I want to mainly know if the length of ducting and dimension of mass will be ok. For the chimney, an exit in center isn't possible because I got a plexiglas dome that I can open, and I actually have an existing hole in the wall.

The main wind is from ouest, storm wind east and existing wall ducting exit in south south-west, in the picture the door is south-east, so the wind will mainly never come from from upside.

Yesterday I take 2 pictures who easy show the wind effect on snow.

On the West side, a field with some (I plan to add more norway spruce in that line, they grow fast and are really good to block the wind )

I draw a little thing to show how I think the wind affect the Yurt, not sure about how strong will be the wind pressure inside the ducting.

9 years ago
I draw a 8 inch system with SkechUp, and trying to figure out how to put the thermal mass. The yurt is 32 feet diameter, and I'll place the stove in the middle, with a wall exit. I bougth the book, the 4 dvd, and with a 8 inch system, in the dvd they said we need like 50 linear feet of ducting and when we put an elbow, we introduce 5 feet, so did you think it can work that way ? I fugure to put the majority of the mass near the middle for a bed and maybe a bench too and let the space near the wall for cleaning and other things.

And another question, did the stabilized perlite/clay is strong enough to support the 55 gallons barrel ? or I really need to make a brick structure all around it ? In the second picture, you can see a 2" of perlite/clay under the combustion unit, my plan is the isolate all interior of the finished brick box with it, then put the 55 barrel on, and seal with cub etc. , will it work ?

The exterior 3 Tee's of ducting in the picture one, is an idea of the book to prevent wind from blowing down the flue

Thanks
9 years ago
Hello,

Thanks for replying since this post is old but still contain usefull informations. The 4 $ for a JP brick better quality, is still cheaper than buying a lower quality brick in a hardware store where the vendor never really know about the brick they sell... since im not really experimented and can't tell if a custom brick from a random guys are good for what I want to do, that way I'm sure about the quality of the brick
9 years ago
Hello,

I recently contact a refractory material business, and they propose to me 2 kind of brick rated for 2800 F.

- one brick with 70% alumine 9'' x 4.5'' x 2.5'' --> 7 $ each
- Jet DP brick, 9''x4.5''x2.5'' 2850 fahrenheit --> 4$ each data sheet (56.3% Silica, 37.6% alumine)

Both brick have an high density.

Did you think the Jet DP brick should work ?

Thanks

9 years ago
Yep, I saw some video on Youtube about it, but splitting wood isn't a problem for me, my parent get 2 huge boiler to make maple sirup and I still splitting the wood about 20 cord of 24 inch and 5 cord of 12 inch for the final boiler. All this wood splitting with a good splitting hammer, we got one too behind a tractor, my father use it because he get old and got some shoulder problem, but I find that too slow and I enjoy splitting with hammer

I already try the Tire things, but I prefer to take a cord with some loop on it, and an elastic so you can bend it easy to fit the size of cutting wood

Some guys used chipps packed in paper or onion bag to feed them stoves, but like you said, but since the feeding tube isn't really big, packaging isn't really worth it.

P.S. - Oh since im a Frenchie's my english isn't perfect sorry if its hard to understand
9 years ago