Nina Surya

rocket scientist
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since Apr 25, 2015
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Biography
Permie gardens, healing herbs, critters, creativity ...and Spirit/Source connection.
A Finnish woman travelled via the UK and Netherlands to rural France.
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in the Middle Earth of France (18), zone 8a-8b
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Recent posts by Nina Surya

I've had a marten steal eggs fresh out the coop. But what also can be the reason is the stress the chicken have from moving house. Usually the egg production stops around 2 days after something stressful. It should return to normal in 3-4 days after.
Hopefully you'll start finding eggs soon again.
2 days ago
For the first time after a hot, dry summer, I felt a chill this morning, going out to open the chicken coop and feed them. 9 degrees Celsius. Welcome, Autumn!
2 days ago
Not today, my friend
For today is for presence
feast, joy and merriment
2 days ago
One more thing; molting is a tender process, they really REALLY don't like to be touched while molting.
So if your pet chicken is molting, no picking up etc. during this period.
3 days ago
Looking good, clear and informative!

My only remark is for the title/tagline, "A better way to go".
I get the double meaning of it, but my wicked mind comes first and foremost with the third meaning, as in exiting Life itself. I hope I'm the only one with a strange mind, but just in case... maybe think it over.

Other than that, all thumbs-up!

Hi Sabine,
Welcome to Permies!

You could divide your plum pits and put 15 in pots outside in the rain and weather over winter. This you could do right now - mix some local soil and compost, put your pits into the mix at a depth that is equal to the thickness or height of the pit and cover the pots with some wire mesh to keep hungry mice out of them.
The other 15 pits you could save to fridge-germinate in February as mentioned here above.

Good luck!
6 days ago

Nancy Reading wrote:I had some good success with embossing tomato puree tubes. The metal is a nice thickness and takes a ball point pen imprint nicely.
...
Anyway, I'm thinking that that sort of thing could make good corner protectors or clasps perhaps. The only thing you'd have to be careful of is that the metal edges can be quite sharp.



Sounds like a great find and a fun project to me! If you file the edges of the metal, and hammer sharp corners round you should be safe..ish, I think?

Can't wait to see your finished book!

1 week ago
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Nicole, that looks awesome!
Wait until the paint is dry before applying wax.

Your binding has real cords, not faux! You can just loop around the cord (go under the cord in the direction of sewing, loop around cord, go in book again and to the next sewing hole), no need to use the coptic link stitch since the thread is secured around the cord and won't be pulled into the section (fold of leaves).
The traditional sewing on cords has link stitch (coptic stitch) at the head and tail of the book, and cords in between.

You're absolutely right about the book opening flat when there's no glue on the spine of it

You're finding out/remembering medieval binding techniques as you go! Good on you to attach the book to its covers with the cords.
Endbands (another challenge) work much the same way, cord attaching the book block to its covers (original, medieval function of endbands when covers were heavier).
If you fan out the cords on the inside of the covers, you can glue them down absolutely flat. We used to sand them ever so lightly and then glue down a fill-in paper that fit inside the turned-in and trimmed neat edges of the covering (same thickness too).

I can't remember how we did the joint on the outside of the book, the bit where the cord goes from book block to cover boards. Some carving out space from the cover boards was involved to make a shallow 'gutter' for the cord from the spine-edge of cover to the hole where it goes to the other side (inside) of cover.
But - that's all optimising, fancy stuff - WELL DONE with your creativity, finding out stuff on your own!

Gelatine goes potentially sticky with moisture. Do you have gesso at hand?
Waxing the covers after painting is a very good idea. Could you maybe use little stickers to cover the spots where the stick on jewels go while waxing, then you can just peel off stickers and stick on jewels (with extra glue)?

Good luck, continue having fun with the experiments!
1 week ago
art
I'm a new sourdough baking aficionado (Thank you Kate Downham for your trouble shooting help!), and enjoy baking sourdough bread.
We buy our baking flour at the Local Products section at our supermarket, it comes from a local-ish mill.
BUT. I'd love to buy whole grain and grind it myself with a coffee/spice grinder for baking.

The questions that come to mind are:
- Where to source the grains? Online is a quick answer, but I'd prefer to buy local. How do you guys find your grains?
- Am I delulu with the thought of grinding the grains with a small electrical coffee/spice grinder? I did one test batch and it looks great, but for weekly bread baking the batches would be bigger... What are your experiences?
- What are your favourite liquids to bake sourdough bread with? I usually use water, sometimes whey, but have you used other liquids to bake bread with? What were the results?

Thanks in advance!
1 week ago

Nicole Alderman wrote:

Here's some ideas I've thought of. But none of them make me too happy.

  • Use stick on jewels. These might fall off, though. Need stronger adhesive.
  • Watercoloring the covers. If the covers get the least bit wet, they'll bleed and kids will be sad.
  • Using egg tempera paint to decorate the covers. Apparently this cracks? I haven't attempted it yet.
  • Dying the cloth with natural dyes? But, cotton doesn't take natural dyes well.[/img]
    [list]Letting the kids color them with sharpies. The colors won't bleed, but it won't be historical.
  • Somehow using some sort of paper or cloth clay to sculpt onto the covers, sort of like paper mache. But, once again, the glue reactivates with water. Unless I do some sort of non-water-soluable glue, l like gelatin. But that's hard to keep warm.
  • Using wool for the cover material, since it takes dye better? That's expensive, though!
  • Using actual leather. This is too expensive!


Any ideas or solutions?



Hi Nicole, I do admire your ambition and drive with the projects!

Medieval book covers were made of wood, covered with leather.
For best results (most satisfying in cost - ease of making - wow effect ratio), I'd look for 3mm (= 0.12 inches) thick cardboard, assuming the books will be approximately the same size as with your previous project.
Little tweaks will give a lot of satisfaction in the end product, like sanding the edges and the corners of the thick cardboard/millboard to a slight bevel on the outside (but leaving the inside edge as is).
Faux leather from brown paper, like Carla suggested, looks quite appealing!

Make a try-out at home to test the materials and techniques.
I'd go with;
- thick cardboard/millboard covers
- underlay elements - cords, split peas etc under the covering. I've done this with thin-ish leather and it works like a dream, not sure about paper.
- faux leather brown paper covering (if going with underlay elements, press the paste-moist covering material gently on the underlay elements with something super soft, like the palm of your hand, close to thumb)
- do some 'finishing' with sharpies
- tin foil "gold and silver", gold possibly created with a thin layer of nail polish? Embossing the tin foil before *magically* sticking it to the cover. I don't have experience with using tin foil on book covers, but am assuming strong glue like wood glue could work.
- stick on jewels for extra bling, also glued with the extra strong glue

I guess the point I want to make is; try it out to see what works towards creating your vision!

Also, when gluing covering on the sewn-on covers, use some kind of moisture barrier between the book block (paper pages) and the covers. I find the plastic pouches for archive paper we used to hold in ring binders works really well for this. So from cover to book block; cover, glued and folded over edge of covering, blotting paper ( paper towels? ), moisture barrier, book block (paper pages). Put a weight on top that is flat and larger than the book you're making to keep the covers flat. Sometimes it's needed to let the spine of the book sit just outside the weight to accomondate the swelling in the spine of the book, created by the sewing of the text block (in that case you'd need to put a board under AND above the book, to allow a symmetrical shape of the spine).
Change blotting paper, initially quite often, to speed up and help drying.

Argh, it's a bit challenging to 'show' stuff in words. Also, I don't want to come over as a preachy know-it-all. Just want to help
If there are any questions, I'm happy to help.



1 week ago
art