Tiffany Morris

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since May 05, 2015
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Recent posts by Tiffany Morris

Hello. I don't think you could build the roof first, as you need to be able to tamp the bags all the way to the final layer. We had to build a temporary roof-like structure, so that we could work on the lower bag layers during a very rainy summer. We will be using the lumber for the actual roof (hope to finish this summer), and use the tarps to wrap the finished earthbag structure during the winter to keep off the suns rays (extremely important!). Basically, the lumber that was bought is not going to waste, and the tarps will always be useful for something. I'm just being honest when I expect it to take you more than one year to complete, unless you make it very small, or enlist some help. We have been working on ours for 3 years on weekends late Spring through early Fall (from last frost to first frost), with myself, my husband, and three teenagers. Ours measures about 17'x17' with a loft. We are building it on a steep slope, and have used a lot of rebar to stabilize the bags. So, you may have an easier time than us, if you have easy road access, a close water source, and a more level area to build. I can try to figure out how to post pictures to explain, if you are interested.
1 year ago
The problem we ran into with our earthbag was definitely rainy weather. You may find it advantageous to purchase a high quality tarp and invest in some lumber to get the house area covered, so that you can still work during rain. It's also nice to not be worried about damp earth washing away during heavy rain, if you are filling onion bags. Most of all, though, if you can't finish in one season, use the tarp to keep the sun off the bags until you can finish the next year.

I would also advise looking into tiny house design, so that you can use their concepts to keep your earthbag smaller, and thus easier to complete. If you want a bigger place, add on later by planning that into your design as stage two.

We are in PA, so I'm not sure what your weather will be compared to ours. Anyhow, hope this helps. Good luck.
1 year ago
I did finally get a response from Thrive (whew), so my faith in the company has been restored. They must be having some growing pains, since some of the instructions on their site and some of their email addresses are unresponsive. Anyhow, I likely will renew my subscription with them, when I can begin food reintroductions next year. For now I am sticking with fresh veg, a bit of fresh fruit, and some meats, which Thrive doesn't deliver. Still, I found their selection pretty great and priced well. Thanks.
3 years ago
Is anyone else having a hard time unsubscribing to this service? My free trial is to expire in 2 days, and I cannot utilize the service much yet (autoimmune food issues). I tried to cancel using the email they had on their site to cancel memberships, and I received a message that the email is not monitored. So, I tried to call, but got a message about their open hours, which I was calling during, but never got through. I left a message on their site about these issues, but never received a response. I simply cannot find a way to get through to Thrive! Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
3 years ago
Thank you everyone. I'm very glad to hear that DE can help with this. The current coop is quite large (built in early 1900's for far more chickens than my 6), so I think I will first DE the floor then cover with another bale if straw. If that is one of the places the flies were coming from, then this should help. I really don't think I would be so bothered by this, except we are still in town and I don't want the neighbors hating the chickens (or us). We've kept chickens for about 10 years, and never noticed this when using the coop and run. The flies must have been a source of food for them, when there was less available to forage. Once we have moved out to our property, I am also planning on using the paddock system, but again the only place with electric (heated chicken watered used in winter) is way at the bottom of our hill, which is our road access and the only place we can see neighbors homes. So, again I don't want to be causing a fly issue for them. If I felt confident that there would be enough forage on the hill (rather thick forest of deciduous trees, many raspberries and roses), and that I would remember to change their water often during the winter (no electric for waterer), then I could paddock them near the house site (work in progress, as earthbag building takes longer than we expected, but looks like it will be liveable by fall). So, if I paddock them at the bottom of the hill near the main road and use an open-bottom mobile coop, perhaps this won't happen on the scale it is happening now. And of course, there are no sidewalks to poop on there. Thank you again.
3 years ago
Hello. This is my first post. Sorry to start on a new topic, but I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. After listening and reading much of what Paul has to say about raising chickens, I felt sufficiently chastened and sectioned off my first chicken paddock (50'x70' for 6 chickens), which they have three days left to forage in. Unfortunately, this particular section contains a sidewalk down the center, and the ladies tend to do much walking and pooping on it, which seems to be attracting flies like mad. Does anyone know if this fly issue is also happening in the grassy areas as well, and I'm not noticing it? Simply sweeping it off the walk does not seem to be working. I'm still using a solid-floor coop, until I secure funds and time to create an open-floor design. Perhaps the fly problem is exacerbated by the coop floor as well, although I couldn't locate a fly problem there. Perhaps they just like the hot poo on the cement? I really want to eliminate the excess flies. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thank you.
3 years ago