Douglas Campbell

I use a rubber cuff with a pipe clamp.

I second the comment to go for a shed roof not a flat roof.
Also remember that rafters can form a cold bridge from the outside to the ceiling, causing condensation patches.

Dragonflies need emergent vegetation to creep up when they metamorphosize from aquatic nymph to adult flyer.
I have lots coming out of a backyard pond, and mosquitoes are much lower than when the pond was a pool.

The vitapure unit you show uses (I think) a long finger UVC llamp in a cylinder through which the water flows.
The UV lamp has a life span and is prone to fouling, check if it is easily cleaned/replaced.
If you have it that should be the last step before the tap and the run from the vitapure to tap should be as short as feasible.
It will also pull some power if you are offgrid.
Maybe just one potable tap with the unit directly beneath.

There are first flush tank designs to go between your down spout and your first capture tanks, to allow the roof and downspout  system to flush before delivering water to the potable system.
Think about your roof material, overhanging vegetation and level of bird droppings.  Not good to flush pigeon poop into the system.

I hate to say this, but, many of the older wood preservatives included arsenic compounds, which have insidious mobility and bioaccumulation properties, including in fungus, I believe.
They change oxidation/reduction state and shift mobility depending upon conditions; it is a huge problem.
Unlike lead, I am not aware of a quick test, but arsenic in well water is a fairly widespread issue, so there might tests or services available.

Hi;
As I recall I was filling the tire ring as you describe.
I only split about 1 cord a year, of big chunks or birch for kindling, so I get limited opportunity to practice my 'flick'.
But I always hit the chunk and it usually flies apart

We use a a Pacific Energy Super27; best money I ever spent for family happiness.
We start a load with a fast burn, then turn down the primary and use the secondary burn to combust the gas coming off the coal bed; lovely dancing blue CO flames.
In the coldest weather (-20 to -30C) we load at 22:00, turn down at 22:30, it coasts nicely until 06:00.  Then turn up and re-load.
My best overnight wood is yellow birch, which often grows with a crinkled, folded grain that is tough to split.
I also get maple, some ash (for now  ) and a bit of oak.
White birch I split down for kindling.
Jack pine (heinous tree), linden, rowan and other scraps from my house property we use for autumn/spring quick burns of an evening to take the chill off.
As mentioned elsewhere, people on the forum use different definitions of 'cord'.  I burn 2.5-3.5 true cords (128 cubic feet), 1-4  stove loads a day, to heat from October to May in a fairly well insulated house.
If I was burning straight softwood I would probably burn 5-8 cords, and would have to be more careful about my stovepipe (which is never dirty currently).

With well seasoned wood (usually 2 years) burns are almost always clean.
But it is tricky to properly season wood in my climate.
cheers, Doug

My setup was similar to Thomas.
The Fiskars goes right through many of my 16" pieces and beds into the block, it would often touch the tire bead and knick on the way past.

scytheworks.ca are helpful.
My grandfather was a master with,a long American blade, but scytheworks set me up with a short Italian ditch scythe,

I tried the tire on my chopping blockmand it was diastrous. The metal beading knicked my Fiskars 27 splitting ax (which is great).
Maybe I used the wrong sort of tire.

Hi
I am in Sackville NB.
I have a similar size garage.
A single IBC tote under the outlet of my garage gutter on each side of the garage mostly keeps up.
I took the down spout off and let the rain fall through air to the screened inlet of the IBC.
I lose some water to wind and splashing, but have less hassle with frozen or leaf clogged downspouts.
I would suggest separate IBC on each side, a horizontal pipe run could be an ice and leaf jam hassle.
In late fall I open the drain valve and recap the IBC.
Welcome to NB!