Justin Dorr

Nice system, portable and very tidy.

frank li wrote:You could conduct a load test. Turn off your house main breaker and pv input breakes(s) and apply a load of a known size, then time how long it takes for the inverter to disconnect. This will be easier if your system has a monitor that displays amps or watt hours out of the battery.

Load testing with an load test instrument is probably best, but if you get good backup time, use it for a season or until it limps.

Some inverters shut down when they don't like the power from the grid. Over voltages, etc, also shut down an inverter, depends on the model. Really require more data.

Matt Stern wrote:I have a grid tied rooftop solar system.  It works great, the thing is, if the grid goes down for any reason, my system shuts down automatically.  The said reason being to protect any utility workers from getting zapped by my electricity traveling back through the power grid.  Makes sense to me, but is there any way to safely bypass this "feature?"  IE the grid goes down but we can still use the watts we generate.  I'm open to solutions that include batteries, but curious if there is a way to do it without them.

Matt

Without reading all the replies. Yes it's possible to safely have a grid tied system and switch that system to batteries at your convenience.

All compliant grid tied inverters connect to the panels via plug and socket, typical MC4 connectors. Unplug these and connect to a separate circuit that isn't connected to the grid, problem solved. Typical, keep a spare battery bank and charge via panels when your grid is down. NB. Must physically disconnect the panels, no fancy switch gear.

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Almost impossible -without many hours of work- to conclude what the pay back could be at least on a global view, way to many variables. A locality by locality approach you'd most certainly be able to make some comparisons if buying a system and then comparison system by system, etc. However, as many industrious Permies members self build and self design again we run into another problem of how to calculate value and pay back time.

One way is to self build and self design or borrow a suitable design and mere decided that are going to build a solar water heater and bit by bit obtain those necessary components (low cost or no cost) and arrive at your destination. That way the actual cost shouldn't become a burden and then value far exceeds pay-back and the latter forgotten.

Have you opened the unit and witnessed what is exactly going on? If its the relay to the right as most suspect be making the noise then caution, the pad on that relay is only good for an approximate number of on/off cycles and perhaps one of the contacts is worn. The relay switches live voltage and each cycle a small arc could form worst case when very worn enough heat is generated to melt the box if rabid cycling occurs. Probable an idea to stop the relay switching a load as frequent as it appears from the description.


Relays or their pads also overtime become pitted and uneven contact occurs again helps to create arcs and possible that a relay contact could weld together then a permanent live circuit an outcome.

As for any specific resolution to your problem those trim pots - view on the circuit board- may hold an answer, maybe wear and tear on a relay contact. Any make and model number?

It could also be everything is fine and that the input voltage from the solar system be a problem? Did mention sleep nearby so this problem occurs at night and should be minimal/no voltage to the controller if its dark, although not unheard of for quality panels to generate a small voltage from moonlight.

Insulation first and foremost save what you got rather than try to heat a house with more energy. I'm unaware of any recommendations in terms of electric heating and solar energy fact is most homes need heat at night and majority of electric heating systems utilise a huge amount of energy although I get the selling back to the grid to use up any credit at a later date.

Some questions I maybe ask why is your house cold? Certain rooms colder than others? Are there drafts between rooms? Drafts coming from outside? If you cannot insulate from the outside what about from the inside? What about just changing your heating habits, what is the actual temperature of each room? Maybe it isn't cold? Are there unused flues in any rooms? Remember wood burners need oxygen and so too your lungs to survive, thus, drafts are essential part of a house with a wood burner. Really require to heat an entire house, every room & hall way? Does your door(s) open straight onto the outside world allowing the heat -entire house- out when open, could I build a double door to keep the heat inside while I open an exterior door? A few questions to ponder I'm sure are more.

If its solar panels I doubt the bees will have a problem, what's a megawatt about 7000sqm of land.

What I would do is to find out what is to be done to the land after the installation, grass seeded or mere left to nature, if the latter get in there and scatter as many local bee loving seeds to produce natural flora, bee food.

NB. reflected light from a solar module is missed energy therefore reason quality modules contain anti-reflective properties to capture those photons and prevent glare.

Great design and compact too!

A question would be what about life expectancy, usability long term what are the expectations? Although no like for like comparison, anyone ever bought an inflatable chair or bed only for a great design to be let down a few months later with poor quality workmanship. And then once have found that air leak its then impossible to repair at least from off the shelf bicycle puncture repair kit.

Also how does the soft plastic handle hot fats splashed upon its surface?

Darren Carson wrote:

Voltage test just after panel was 42 v and same voltage tested just before regulatior 30 meters away from panels.

Charging issue, batteries will charge through inverter/ charger powered via generator but not through solar, regulator has been changed over but with replacement unit still doing the same and not charging.

Regulator specs, 12 /24v , 50amp Low voltage connection 25.2v which batteries have been as low as 24v

Question, if each solar panel is rated at 10amp x 5 = 50amp , being the regulator is only rated at 50amp would or could this be slightly undersized ?

Any help would be much appreciated as my Melbourne supplier is being of no help

Your regulator maybe ok its rated at 50amps however, your panels if new maybe output more power than that stated on the power plate. Most quality panels allow for initial light induced degradation and throw in some free power to compensate. Once a panel is exposed to light this free power soon drops off and power is then either as rated or considerably lower however, remains within warranty. Certain panels have no light induced degradation, although another topic. Since you live within a high irradiance area its possible those panels kick out maximum power (even above rated power), if your charge controller were poorly constructed then its going to be severely tested maybe to point of destruction if running at rated power or beyond. Need to somehow obtain what practical rather than theoretical amperes are really flowing throw the unit.

Wrote that the batteries charge when a charger is presented this powered from a generator thus are bypassing the solar panels and charge controller via disconnection or a double pole switch. Ever thought of just hooking up that DC output to your PWM? After all how does it know whether the DC current comes from a panel or a 24 volt charger or any other 24 Volt DC source of adequate ampere draw. Its one way to obtain what is going on.

Start that process of elimination.

While that is thought about ask the question of what task your PMW, is suppose to achieve.

Any photos?