Jon McLain

Hey guys, please forgive me but how is this loaded? And it looks like it's right up against the wood wall, is that right? Does it just vent out the back at the bottom through the wall?

That is crazy! 5 hours of intense heat for so little wood. These stoves continue to blow my mind. I'm so excited to see this in person

Brian James wrote:Disappointing news - my traveling companion had to back out due to health reasons, and it's not a trip I can or should attempt by myself due to my own health troubles, so unfortunately I'm not going to be able to attend the rocket heater Jamboree in Montana after all.

Disappointing news my friend. We shall get some good data this sunday I hope. Perhaps some good videos

Ok so we should buy a few frozen pizzas and rest your oven and cooking quality. I'm excited to see this in person

I have to admit this is looking pretty promising. I'm really curious to see how it does as far as the initial goal for like a porch style heater I believe is what you were going for? Also in regards to your pizza oven that's really neat idea what are you using to either make the oven out of or coat the barrel with cuz last time we try to remember we melted all the paint off the barrel

Peter, thank you so much for your help and research and being a part of this community. I was searching the batch rocket site and having a hard time finding the dimensions or ratio for floor channel...or is it essentially the same as a top mount p channel ? From what I understand once I get the magic number for outlet, the inlet and tubing is much less specific? I apologize if you've weny over this, it is very possible I somehow over read past it not realizing it happened. I'm planning on a 6" core if it matters

Building a 6"bb. With the secondary air port (think I want to do floor channel but either way) i understand the sizing, however is the consistent size through the tube the important factor or if I have a slightly oversized tube internal to the box but the proper inlet and outlet size will it work properly?

Glenn Herbert wrote:Concrete blocks should work fine for the mass. I might keep them isolated from flue/duct contact for the first few feet of duct run (with cob or refractory cement), but after that the gas temperature will not be high enough to damage the block.

You do want good contact between the blocks and the flue gases encased in ducting; even if you don't have access to much clay, using cob to fill between duct and blocks is a good choice. Air gaps will kill the thermal conduction into your mass.

Appreciate the input, however these are solid blocks at 16*8*4 so I was planning on sealing them into a bench right off the bottom of my barrel as sort of a large-scale bell without need of a transition pipe. So the only 2 openings will be wood feed and exhaust

Peter van den Berg wrote:John, the heater isn't more powerful just by restricting the gap. The top of the barrel's getting hotter, that's all. Logical, because the riser is closer to it now, good for cooking on top.

So does that mean more heat to barrel but less available for the mass to absorb?

So based on this, correcting an overly large top gap seemed to get the power desired by your 6" system?
I'm curious as I'm not sure if I want to build a j or batch....either seems like a good deal with batch having advantage of bigger pieces of wood and more heat output faster but slightly more fussy design