Win a copy of The Prairie Homestead Cookbook this week in the Cooking Forum forum!

Mary Leonard

+ Follow
since Jan 04, 2016
Mary likes ...
chicken forest garden trees
Recently purchased acreage with my husband and kids and now we're finally able to put our permaculture knowledge into practice to become more self-sufficient.
Jackson, United States
Apples and Likes
Apples
Total received
0
In last 30 days
0
Total given
0
Likes
Total received
4
Received in last 30 days
0
Total given
89
Given in last 30 days
0
Forums and Threads
Scavenger Hunt
expand First Scavenger Hunt

Recent posts by Mary Leonard

Thank you. The soil testing is on my list of to dos, it just hasn't gotten done yet! Guess I've got to break down and get it done. For the time being, we've periodically tossed some of the whole grain we already buy for feed into the sunnier spots and we've been taking the spent hay from the goat's shed and spreading it on areas we want grass. It frequently has lots of seeds in the mix since I pull all the tiny stuff from the bottom of the hay crib and spread it around as well. Since the last time I did this, there's a nice covering of mulch in their paddock area but we're just waiting on some rain. The pastures will not be irrigated so whatever grows has to be tough. Several grains seem to do fairly well but that's in the sunnier areas where there's already a larger open space between the trees.
2 years ago
I'm looking for ideas on what to seed my pasture areas with and when to plant it. I'm in zone 8/9 in the middle of woods on a mountain dominated by pine, cedar, redwood and some evergreen that looks like a holly leaf but I've somewhat identified as a type of oak. There's also some fir, manzanita and madrone for more evergreen and some deciduous oak. Way towards the far reaches of the property are a few buckeye trees. The soil is on the acidic side, dry from July to October, covered by a thick canopy that allows on average 2-4 hours of sun in most spots and has about a 6-12-inch layer of mostly pine leaf litter to plant in.

For animals we've got two goats and will be rotating a portion of the chicken flock through regularly. I'd like to add sheep and a cow or two in the future but have yet to talk hubby into that... And we need more fencing completed first. The areas I'm wanting to seed are not fenced yet so can be protected from the livestock. Some areas do have good honeysuckle growth but I'd like to get more variety growing in all areas.

I'll be working on cleaning up, thinning, planting and fencing between 3 and 4 acres over the next couple years.
2 years ago
The slope is just like on my property, about 45 degrees. Too steep for the riding mower.

Rain is done for the year. We average 40 inches between October and May. This year was over 50.

There's plenty of brush that needs cleared so I think I can start using that to pile on contour upslope. Thank you!

Now to figure out why 4 of my 6 fruit trees didn't leaf out. Mine are all new trees.
2 years ago
These trees are at my neighbor's house. We have free access to them. I pruned them early this spring and all but one have now leafed out better than last year. That one hasn't shown any signs of leaving dormancy. My neighbor irrigates them periodically in the warmest weather but we're both on wells so I've offered to do the labor for passive water collection beginning next fall. What's best bet: cup swales, terracing carefully around the trees, other options? He knows nothing of permaculture and I'm a beginner at putting things into practice. I will probably be taking a load of used goat bedding and straw or wood chips up for mulching and fertilizing. Anything else?
2 years ago
I've got the same problem. The only sunny and cleared hillside within a reasonable distance from the house is what we call septic hill...because that's where the septic field is located. The cleared slope area measures about 75 feet by 50 feet with the septic area taking up about 1/3-1/2 of that space. I haven't measured it accurately yet.

We've flattened the very top of the area where the tree line is and are building our coop and run there. There is room for a couple terraces between the coop and the top of the septic area. One will be pathway, one will be growing space. The terraces will be roughly on contour going around the septic with the septic area getting a 2-foot tall fence and planted with shallow rooted flowers and grasses that will self-seed.

The bottom terrace follows the line of the existing access road and consists of a lot of dirt that has been dug out and moved back up the hill in order to widen the road for easier vehicle access to animal buildings. Once we get this in place, we'll be backfilling it with the existing soil and working the uphill terraces from there. Laying the block wall then backfilling with excess soil from elsewhere on the property - cutting into the hillside as little as possible.

For the terrace walls I'm using the retaining wall blocks with the built-in set-back...all made by hand to cut down on costs. I would love to have used existing rocks but I wanted the more secure stability of the pre-formed blocks and while there are plenty of rocks in my soil, it's mostly clay. As I get the terraces built, I'll be adding partially composted bedding from the coop and barn which consists of a mix of manure, hay, straw, pine shavings and leaf litter. I'm hoping the soil will greatly improve over the next few years.

We tried digging swales our first year here and after a LOT of work and watching the swales fill with water during the rains, our crops still didn't do well so I got the idea that the terraces would do better overall. Plus, we'll be able to hook up a water harvesting/irrigation system to the house roof that we can use to water if necessary.
2 years ago
I agree with you Marco. I would only till if I were going to immediately plant, cover and not walk on it. I've only read that some think it's okay to do it once then not again.

For us with our clay soil, we're not intentionally tilling but we are moving literally tons of soil by shovel, in order to widen a road that goes towards the back of our property and lay the first row of terracing for our garden hill. The terraces after the first run will all be dirt added to the hillside instead of cut into. The other area where we're disturbing the soil is where we're leveling off to build a larger coop and run. This soil will be moved down the hill to the terracing.

Unfortunately, our only real option for building is cutting into hillsides so we're making use of that dirt in the MANY terraces we need. Not doing buildings on piers. It's building back where erosion has worn down the hill in some spots then holding it in place with proper structure and management.

For in the woods, the only way we're really disturbing anything will be to move that dead wood into the berms. The covering is only disturbed by the goats and chickens as they go over it. Once we get fencing we'll be able to rotate the animals so less overall disturbance.
2 years ago
From what I've read and watched, an initial till can be beneficial to kick start the revitalization of the soil but tilling should, ultimately, be done rarely and shallowly.
2 years ago
Sorry, I just had to smile when you said fairly sloped land...your picture shows something akin to what the closest to level parts of our property look like. Our hill is about a 45 degree slope.

For our clay soil here in California, we keep it covered with either the leaf litter from both deciduous and coniferous/evergreen trees and used animal bedding. We've built berms across the slopes with all the dead wood we've cleared from the woods...heavily wooded property here. These are collecting what's washed down the hills and creating a haven for the bugs which brings in the birds. LOTS of mushrooms growing in the berms now as well. Too bad my family doesn't eat mushrooms or I'd be into identifying and harvesting them.

Cover it with wood chips or straw, used bedding from a neighboring farm or something that you can easily find in abundance. If it's straw, then you can probably seed something like the clovers and other stuff mentioned above immediately. For wood chips or used bedding, wait a few months before spreading the seeds. Make sure those seeds are hidden and have firm contact with the ground though or your money is wasted. If you've got any hay eating livestock and don't mind the pasture grasses in that area, spread the waste hay over it. You'll mulch and seed at the same time. That's what we do with the waste hay from our goats in order to get grasses to grow underneath our trees. We still have lots of thinning to do for the canopy but the grass is starting to take hold.

Good luck!
2 years ago
Alas, I cannot get electric fencing though it would be nice for the couple of open areas we do actually have! Our neighbors have been very friendly and very nice but electric fences would mess with his HAM radio and then he wouldn't like us so much!

The "pasture" we do have turns into sticker a patch as soon as the weather warms up fully which should be in about a month. Right now we have a large meadow with foot+ high grasses. It's a steep climb to take the goats there so I don't take them as often as I should. Plus, it's a bit farther away from the house than I like to keep them unsupervised...and there's still enough trees for them to tangle easily. So I take them up a few times a week along with a good book or my loppers and pruning saw. The dead wood is slowly going into a couple berms. I think when all the woods have been straightened up and all the dead fall, etc has been moved into berms that we'll have the equivalent of about 3 miles of them slowing down the water, collecting stuff that's going downhill and housing bugs and fungus galore. The berms are also roughly outlining where we eventually want permanent fencing of some sort.
2 years ago
I'm working on the same thing myself. I need to fence in the pasture around the goat shed as priority (after building the new chicken coop). This pasture will be for daily use and will soon be fairly bare except for what grows through the fence. Then we'll gradually be populating the areas for pastures 2-6 with browse plants. Right now I'm researching fedges and woven hedges/fences as a means to fence in these areas in the woods. We've been quoted between $3500 - 6000 to fence in ONE approximately 2000 square foot pasture. This means doing it ourselves with preferably less expensive but still effective methods. We've got 8 acres of woods but will eventually have about 4 of it in pasture for one type of livestock or another...starting with goats/chickens with maybe sheep, a donkey, a cow or two and horses. I was even offered 5 good horses for free the other day...all healthy and ride-able because the woman is ill and can no longer care for them. I was sad I couldn't take them because of no fencing! The idea is silvopasture mainly for home use but we're starting in reverse. Most resources I've found of rit, people are starting with fairly bare and mostly level land, or at most rolling hills. Not us! Fairly dense woods with some undergrowth and about a 45 degree slope!
2 years ago