Phil Swindler

K Eilander wrote:In the video below, this guy uses dissolved styrofom in xylene (I've used regular acetone before, and that works too) but then he uses it as a varnish.  Great idea!
To make a wood stain he then mixes it with "cholera", which, I'm guessing is not the word he meant. :)  Looks like shoe polish, I'm guessing.

I think he said colorant.

S Philomena wrote:You might find this article about an orchard in southeastern Canada inspiring. https://permacultureapprentice.com/here-is-how-you-make-a-living-from-a-4-acre-permaculture-orchard/

I've watched lots of his videos on youtube.  He's just loaded with good information.

I did the straw bale method on rented property where I couldn't build a hugel.
I did 2 batches started around a month apart.
The more decayed bales gave MUCH better results.
I'd say go get your bales ASAP and work on the decay process every day it's above freezing.
We grew tomatoes, cucumbers, honey dew, and some herbs.  Carrots didn't do very well for me.
We were living near the Kansas-Oklahoma border at the time.

Mart Hale wrote:

I prefer bubble wrap,   I do two layers,   gives me light and also insulates.     To hide the bubble wrap you can use window blinds and still get light.

One layer of the large bubble type is what we used.  It worked well.

While renting a house that had single pane windows and a few of them had cracks, we lost lots of heat and a/c through those windows.
We did the thing were you stick bubble wrap to the inside of the windows..  This made a noticeable difference in the comfort level of those rooms as well as the amount of time the furnace had to run.

This is the side and bottom view of a Sweedish shrink pot.
The cylinder is made from a fresh green branch or log.
The bottom is made from wood that has already dried and shrunk.
As the cylinder dries it shrinks and grabs the bottom tightly.
There is no glue or fastener of any kind, just the 2 pieces of wood.
I got the idea from an episode of Roy Underhill's The Woodwright's Shop.
It's not water tight, but, makes a nice storage container for tools, pens, or something granular.

I like drip irrigation for closely spaced things like carrots, radishes, or leaf lettuce.
For plants further apart, like peppers, tomatoes, and squash, I put down PVC pipe.  I put hose connectors on one end, capped the other end, and drilled tiny holes where the plants were going to be.  I put it about 8 inches (20 cm) from the plant so the stem wouldn't sit in a bog and rot.  
The first year I had the spacing the same on the entire length of each run of pipe.  The plants near the hose got WAY more water than the ones at the other end.  Since then I put the holes further apart near the hose connector and closer together on the far end.
20 feet (6 m) is a good length of PVC for me.  Any longer than that and the plants at the end don't seem to get enough water.
I'm thinking I'll switch to quick connectors in the near future.
I do the used carpet mulch in some parts of the garden.  I put the PVC under the mulch.  If you lay down organic mulch you want the PVC covered with mulch to cut down on evaporation.

I do agree with morning watering if you are spraying it in the air to reduce evaporation.

S Bengi wrote:

Thermal Buffer
If you add more thermal mass to your house it will help

Insulation
If you add more insulation, then your AC will not have to work as hard

This video was just posted this morning.  It's kinda long.  But, in it he shows a fascinating method for moderating the temperature swings in his shed.  It would take some time and expense to set up.  But, it looks like it might be able to moderate building temperatures for years with no further energy input.



On his channel he has experimented with some other interesting heat reflective materials.

One thing to keep in mind is - those ground temperatures are based on the average ambient air temperature over the last century or two.
So, the warmer the climate and the warmer those average ambient temperatures are, the warmer those ground temps will be.

Here in Kansas you can call the county extension office for information like that.
I would guess other states have something similar.