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Walt Chase

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since Dec 12, 2016
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Recent posts by Walt Chase

Here in Alaska we use poly sheeting sealed at the seams and overlapped at the seams on the interior of all exterior walls and the ceiling before wall coverings such as sheetrock go on.  Moisture migrates from warm to cold and in our and other areas cold climate that warm moist air will migrate into the wall cavity.  At a certain point inside the wall cavity the water vapor will reach a point where it will condense and freeze inside the wall.  This renders the insulation useless and sets the stage for mold growth.  Standard construction type houses are built as tight as possible and use active ventilation to exchange the inside air instead of relying on a drafty house to do it naturally.  I've seen the affects of compromised insulation and it is not pretty.
5 days ago
What I use is pretty much nothing but lumber scraps from my woodworking.  And a little birch bark torn off my larger firewood pieces.  Birch bark burns like paper soaked in kerosene and is a great way to get the kindling started.
6 days ago
Devin as far as your chainsaw mill.  I completely understand about the expense of the thing.  Have you ever run a chainsaw mill?  It, from what I understand is back breaking work and they are pretty hard on a chainsaw too.  I want to suggest that you go to the  forestry forum ( ) and do some reading in the sawmills and sawing section there.  Most of the guys have Woodmizer or one of the other big name brands, but there are some that have some of the lower priced mills and have had good luck with them.  I'll also suggest that you look at the Woodmizer LT15 mills.  While more expensive than your chainsaw mill I think you would be better served by saving your pennies a bit longer and getting  one of them.  I personally have a Woodmizer LT28.  Was planning on a LT15, but when weighing the pros and cons decided to go with the LT 28.  Yes it was expensive, but has not given me a minutes trouble and from what I understand the customer service, which I have yet to use, it second to none.  One other thing I have gleaned from the Forestry forum is that if and when you decide you no longer need a sawmill the Woodmizer has an excellent resale value.
1 week ago
I have always been a buy once cry once kinda person.  I buy the very best quality I can afford.  I have a Stihl chainsaw I have owned and used continuously since 1990.  It has had a hard life and the only problem it has ever been in the shop for was a clogged muffler which I didn't realize at the time could be a "thing",only ONE spark plug replacement and of course the usual wear parts like bars and chains.   I've used chainsaws so much at work to the point of wearing them out and them being more costly to repair than to replace.   I can't and won't speak to the clones, but for my money I would get the Stihl.
1 week ago
Another here that hasn't read all the replies.  so if already covered I apologize.  Most, if not all, states require an adult to be present(as in right there with the kid) when children hunters are in the field hunting.  Don't know the age cut off for allowing a young person to hunt on their own and imagine it varies by state.  I grew up with and around guns and hunted since I was a kid of maybe around 10 or 12 and fished since I was three or four.  My Mom, or Dad went with me until I was able to go by myself whether the quarry was squirrels or white tailed deer.  All that said, i know of absolutely NO 6 year olds that are capable of holding a rifle and accurately firing it on their own save for maybe the little Chipmunk 22 lr rifles.  Maybe in a blind with a good rest hunting over a field etc they might be able to successfully harvest a deer.  Then there is the subject of recoil.  Recoil from most any firearm except the 22lr, 22 magnum or maybe the 22 hornet would most likely be too much for a child of that age to really handle.  Even the .223 round IMHO would be too much for a 6 YO.
1 week ago
For those of you with the Field skillets, how do you like the handle?  I only have Griswold, Wagner or no name very old cast iron.  We have one Wagner 1891 pan that is newer that has an upswept handle that my wife likes better than the standard handles on the other pans.
2 weeks ago
If your extension agent is like ours you can give him, or her, a call and let them know you want organic input recommendations.  It is fairly simple to sit down and come up with an organic blend that will approximate a 1:1:1 NPK.  I would use some type seed meal or feather meal, bone meal and kelp to get the big three.  I still will recommend Oganicalc from Grow abundant Gardens as one of the best ways to get recommendations and balance your soil.
2 weeks ago
Rotary hammer and epoxy.  Put enough bolts in it to carry the load.
2 weeks ago
I didn't read all the replies, and if this has been stated then my apologies.  You can use a concrete septic tank for potable water (as long as you start with a NEW tank)  growing up we had a community water system that was fed from natural springs.  The springs were boxed in and piped to a catch/settlement tank then on to a 1500 gallon concrete septic tank before being distributed via pipes to each community members homes.  Water was wonderful.  Nowadays a poly tank might be less expensive than a concrete tank.  It would definitely be easier to install, especially on a DIY basis.
2 weeks ago
Pearl, What you call it depends on the amount of flow, and whether it is seasonal or year round.  Low flow and/or seasonal I'd call it a seep and it would most likely be ground water.  Year round could be either a seep or a spring depending on flow amount.  Not all "seeps" are ground water.  It could be a small fissure in the underlying bedrock allowing water to seep up from the aquifer.  Where I grew up in NE GA a neighbor had some property that in just one (as we called them) holler with four springs in it.  If it is year round you could develop it and utilize it for your needs.  Clean up around it, clean it out, box it in and pipe it to a catch tank then on to wherever you need it.  
2 weeks ago