Michael Adams

greg mosser wrote:for a hands-off approach i suspect you’d want the biggest, most vigorous genetics possible. of the two, if what i just read is right, m-106 is semi-dwarfing and m-111 is ‘semi-standard’, so the m111 would be most appropriate. perhaps more appropriate would be something true ‘standard’ sized, probably including planting from seed.

My thoughts as well, thank you for the affirmation Gregg.

A drawn out reply that has nothing to do with my question, but thanks.

Gray Henon wrote:Be sure to try some pears as well, including Asians.  They have done better for us than apples under minimal management, wouldn’t quite call it stun, though.

Also look around for those ditch apples mentioned by Matt, they will give you a clue as to how well yours will work out.  

Took a lot of observation to figure out apples don’t work well at our elevation.  Too hot and too much disease.  Cedar apple rust will completely defoliate them, not quite kill them, but just keep them weak enough to where they don’t grow or produce well without management.  Just a little further up in elevation I start to see ditch apples that produce with no care at all.  You are probably near that line.

Rocky soil also helps deter voles which love soft loam.  You might mix in some gravel when you backfill your holes, a tip I got from a local grower.  I also planted daffodils around them as some said that helps.

I’ve been doing wild seed for years as per Mark Shepards approach.

Looking for opinion on best rootstock for Mark Sheppards ‘STUN’ approach to be planted in various areas on my land.

Well drained sandy loam in zone 6a.

These will be grafted with different scions, the intention of choosing the rootstock is to have better height control in specific areas of property.

Thanks for advice!

I have no hard line or electric, and my property is very large. I was hoping to find a cost prohibitive set-up that would be solar cameras that could send via cellular to my smart phone, if such a thing exists?

Hello!

Looking for a recommended off-grid security camera set-up where images/activity can be sent to smart phone.

Any experienced advice appreciated, thanks!

Looking for advice on a steep slope that I'll be clearing this winter for firewood. Zone 6B..but near an all-season brook where frost and low temps are very unpredictable.

I would also like to maintain the ridge view once firewood is harvested, so looking at low lying food such as currants, hazels, or dwarf fruit trees? It will still be in semi-shade due to larger pine trees on above the slope on other side.

R Scott wrote:They may breathe too well.  At least a scratch coat of plaster will help cut air and keep bugs out of the bales.

This was the initial thought.

Digging up this thread from a while ago.

Have any permies done a recent cost/analysis with straw bale pricing vs Roxul? I’m surprised/shocked at how much straw bales cost where I live, and it’s putting the whole idea of it being a cost effective method of building out the window.

Any recent insights appreciated.

Ron Tam wrote:

Terry Lee wrote:
He wants $5 for a 14" x 18" X 36" bale. If I did my math right to covert the 14" x 36" or ~500/144 sq-in or 3.5 sq-ft. That's $5/3.5 or ~ $1.50 sq-ft. That's 3X fibergass ($.50 sq-ft) or mineral wool (roxul) $.70 sq-ft both @ R-15.

What is the r-value of this stuff for codes and certification (energystar, LEED, etc) ?

Gathering this info myself now. Per this, R-value for straw bales is 26-30 for an 18" thickness. So based on your comparison, it's about twice the R-value and twice the cost of Roxul (aside from 4x the wall thickness). So almost equivalent except that you have to factor in the lumber cost saved and also the actual lesser R-value in the Roxul scenario due to the wood framing. Still, personally I don't see a compelling reason to go with straw bale yet ... If anyone has info or links that would help me understand why straw bales might be more economical, I would appreciate it. (I understand it is more eco-friendly)

"Testing for R-value has been conducted several times. Only a few tests of full-scale walls (rather than bales) have been conducted (by Oak Ridge National Labs and the Technical University, TUNS, of Nova Scotia). The R-value for these walls were found to be between 26 and 30, about double that which can be expected from a wall built to most code requirements. (Note that a 2x6 wood frame wall with R-20 batts has an R-value of about R-13 when the thermal bridging through the studs is considered). Strawbales are comprised of over 90% air voids, easily connected to one another." https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-112-building-science-for-strawbale-buildings