Dave Kett

Theas is right about the dye being difficult to remove.  I never worried about it because I would always have to do wall or surface repair after the leaks were fixed anyway.   It all depends on hpw permeable the surface is and how quickly ou can get to cleaning it up.

You can use Ritt dye to figure out where leaks originate.  Buy three or four different colors and start by applying at lowest possible leak point.  If the leaky water is colored, there is a leak there.  If not, move to the next highest possibility and reapply that color of dye.  If you see the dye in the leaky water now, Note that that;s a leak point.  Then use a DIFFEREN dye for the next possible problem upstream (higher). Continue until all possibilitiesare covered.  I used this method to deal with leaks on 100 year old buildings I owned in Philadephia.

Good luck.

In case it isn't clear, you attach the grounding lead to the mesh I am suggesting you place on the ground.  So you don't ground it, per se, in the ground. Again, something walking on the mesh establishes contact with this 'ground' and completes the circuit, getting a jolt when it then touches the electrified net, wire, or tape.

To be clear, you will probably need to use some sort of 'staples' to  hold/pull the mesh down unless it is something relatively heavy like scrap hog panels.  I think the staples that ae sold for drip irrigation systems would work. They are about 6 inches long. You could also make them out of wire hangers or any stout wire.

How  many hives do you have?  If practical, you could just lay some metallic mesh of some sort or another on the ground around the hives, in front of the electrified wire or mesh.  Anything walking on it and then touching the wire will get a pretty good jolt as it completes the circuit from feet to snout or paw...  

Thanks for this info as well.  Just logged onto One Green World nursery site.  They have a number of varieties.  Next time I drive to Portland I will stop by and sample the leaves.  Seriously.  Mulberries would be a good addition to my place.  https://onegreenworld.com/?s=mulberry

Plus they have a great deal of protein among other nutrients.

The leaves are also used as highly nutritious feed for domesticated animals. The average crude protein content of fresh mulberry leaves ranges from 6.0 to 6.9%, which is substantially higher than that of vegetables (2%) (Gopalan et al., 1971).

This study was undertaken to determine the proximate composition, vitamins, minerals and the antinutritional factor tannic acid in leaves of six genotypes of mulberry. The results showed that in fresh mulberry leaves the proximate composition values ranged from 71.13 to 76.68% for moisture, from 4.72 to 9.96% for crude protein, from 4.26 to 5.32% for total ash, from 8.15 to 11.32% for Neutral Detergent Fiber (NDF), from 0.64 to 1.51% for crude fat, from 8.01 to 13.42% for carbohydrate and from 69 to 86 kcal/100 g for energy. In dried mulberry leaf powder, moisture ranged from 5.11 to 7.24%, crude protein from 15.31 to 30.91%, total ash from 14.59 to 17.24%, NDF from 27.60 to 36.66%, crude fat from 2.09 to 4.93%, carbohydrate from 9.70 to 29.64% and energy from 113 to 224 kcal/100 g. Among vitamins ascorbic acid and beta-carotene were found to range from 160 to 280 mg/100 g and from 10,000.00 to 14,688.00 microg/100 g, respectively, in fresh mulberry leaves and from 100 to 200 mg/100 g and from 8438.00 to 13,125.00 microg/100 g, respectively, in dried mulberry leaf powder. The minerals iron, zinc and calcium were observed in the ranges of 4.70-10.36 mg/100 g, 0.22-1.12 mg/100 g and 380-786 mg/100 g, respectively, for fresh mulberry leaves, and 19.00-35.72 mg/100 g, 0.72-3.65 mg/100 g and 786.66-2226.66 mg/100 g, respectively, for dried mulberry leaf powder. The tannic acid ranged from 0.04 to 0.08% in fresh leaves and from 0.13 to 0.36% in dried leaf powder.

Thanks for this!  I never knew they were edible for humans.  They grow like weeds in some parts of the country e.g., abandoned lots in Philadelphia (I don't live there anymore.)  I will plant some.

 

Ellen Lewis wrote:One difficulty with novel gardening solutions such as forest gardens is finding ways to use unusual crops.
Mulberry leaves, for instance. Way nutritious, small footprint, drought tolerant. One of my most successful crops.
Almost no recipes.
I find them a bit odd. No bitterness or tartness, very bland. Slightly sandpapery texture, but not too chewy like grape leaves.
I almost always pressure steam them first, as they're tough.
Yes, I know they'd be more tender early in the season, but my tree is young and I'm just shaping it, so I want to let it grow first. Pollarding for leaves at the end of the growing season instead of dormant pruning.
After steaming I cool them and dress them in lemon juice and olive oil. I suppose an ohitashi would be good, too.
Or I braise them and season them to be salty and savory.
Tonight it was saute onions, add tofu, add steamed mulberry greens, simmer in a sauce of fermented tofu and fish sauce, garnish with roasted sesame oil. Weird but good over rice.
Do you use them? How?