Jotham Bessey

Here is a company that sales nut and fruit tree seeds. https://www.incredibleseeds.ca/

As was said, some research on the type of tree may be helpful. Ex. PawPaw grows in southern Ontario but may grow without producing fruit in my zone 5b with cool summers.

Skandi Rogers wrote:

S Bengi wrote:I would plant a full acre of fruit+nuts, which is about 100trees.
25 Nitrogen Fixers (Adler, etc)
30 Nuts
45 Fruits

Why so much nut, because wildlife will get alot, but you can also make oil and nut flour for baked goods.
4 plants from each species gives about 11 different type of fruit trees. (44=4*11).

I don't think that 11 or 12 different types of fruit is a ridiculous amount of diversity, it seems just about right.

I have to say I hate alders, we have them here and they do not help anything growing under them at all, we have red currents growing in a long hedge, part of which comes in under the drip line of a large alder, the redcurrants under the tree produce noticeably less and later than the ones away from it. Annual veg show the same pattern, and even the grass on the other side grows poorly the closer to the tree it gets. They also sucker everywhere and drop twigs like they are going out of fashion! I think you could be right on the nuts, after all while a mature walnut will give all the nuts I need that won't happen for 50 years so maybe 4 of them instead of 2.

Alders are a weed here. Nice thing about alders is, if you have a chipper shredder, you can use them as chop, chip and drop! The young shoots can be used for wattle fencing. The leaves for leaf mold.
Make the problem, the solution.

Kyrt Ryder wrote:Speaking of Fiskars, I get I a lot of mileage out of their brush axe. It's got just about the right length- in conjunction with a handy concave hook at the end of the blade- for casual one-handed use without stooping.

I've been eyeing those brush axes. Someday I will buy one.

I just got to the point of chop and drop last year. I have a Sickle that I am finding really nice to use.

A dead hedge is something I've been considering. But I didn't want to be putting up posts using what I can use for firewood. So I was thinking about a wattle fence. But I could make two wattle fences and dead wood between them. That would solve my problem of not being able to have habitat piles. The fence would be barrier and small mammal/bird habitat.

That was a cool and useful video. I bought Osage orange seeds to make a living wall.
I have 29 seedlings growing now.
Does anyone know the maximum spacing to plant trees to create a live edge?

I reuse or upcycle everything I can. Don't see the point in buying plant labels when the plastic from cooking oil containers do just as well. I sometimes choose my purchase because the brand has a container I can use for something else.

If you want house plants, might as well have ones that produce an edible product.
Peppers, Tiny Tim tomato, chives, rosemary, Marjoram, Basil, winter savory, are the successful plants I have so far.
Try for plants rated for above USDA zone 9 and stay at a small size.

I think those graphs look about right. The special made grow lights have the dip in the middle I understand. That sends all the power to the parts of the light spectrum that plants use. Using the daylight rated bulbs would be just for looks. But they are more available and slightly cheaper than grow lights.

I don't know if I'm allowed to do this but here is a link to my YouTube playlist I am building concerning this Growing Degree Day issue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57SamxQ3QRs&list=PLkEF2saHcnSmkZrtPywczBRd-81UaBvDW