Tim Bermaw wrote:Really interesting read so far!
I'm wondering about the bacterial and fungal counts though. For example:
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Squash, beans, peppers all want concentrations of 500 micrograms of bacteria and 250 micrograms of fungi.
Is it the the exact concentration that's important, or is it the ratio of bacteria-to-fungi that's (more) important?
From a practical point of view, if I wanted to grow, say, 50 different types of plant, with many close to each other and many intermixed, there's no way I can see 'a garden' actually working with 'exact' concentrations.
On the other hand, if the various plants (or families of plants) can be placed simply on a bacteria-fungus spectrum, then it would be much easier to nominate certain parts of the garden/property as "highly fungal" or "balanced" or "highly bacterial" then treat/maintain the soil in those areas accordingly and control the transitions from one soil biology to another.
I'm not sure if it already exists, but a reference that simply puts plants into five groups based on preferred soil biology ("Highly Bacterial", "Bacterial", "Balanced", "Fungal", "Highly Fungal") would seem to be an extremely useful and practical tool.
Judith Browning wrote:I wonder if some of the time when folks here talk about using wood chips that they are really speaking about bark chips?
Here, anyway, the only place we can get wood chips, other than having our own chipper, is by catching the power company chipper and getting them to drop off a load. Otherwise we can get bark chips at the many sawmills around here by the truck load (and sawdust also).
I would love to source more wood chips...they are just not so readily available in this area as bark...
Burak Unver wrote:
Panagiotis Panagiotou wrote:
Regarding the gap of the manifold i would like to hear it from someone else in the forum.Are you going to use a 6 inch or an 8 inch system?
I have another question on my mind. What should be the thickness of the insulation layer? I'm asking this because If I make a thin insulation like 1.5 inches and we assume that the heat riser is 8" (8+1.5+1.5=11 inches for the riser and insulation)
The insie of my drum is 27 inches. (27-11)/2=8 inches of gap around the heat riser (B dimension in the first picture I post) 8 inches seems to much to me.. Should I make it even with the insulation layer? Does too thick insulation layer makes a negative effect on the system?
Abby Aylr wrote:I started a small back 2 eden garden two years ago. My main reason was to do less weeding. It worked great.very little weeding and results were good. But in year 2, weeds were a big problem. Much worse. My question that i cant seem to find an answer to is: does mulch need to be reapplied to the same area each year? Im guessing the mulch breaks down and thats the reason weeds were a worse problem in year 2. uowever i really dont see anywhere online where it says to reapply mulch each year. Just wondering what the norm is on this.
thomas rubino wrote:Jay; I believe the recommended size is 5.5" x 5.5" on a 6" J tube. Common practice is to make the height slightly more to allow for an inch of ash to cover the burn tunnel floor. So a 5.5" wide by 6.5" tall would be a better size to aim for.
bob day wrote:The combustion area of the stove is a place where the highest temps are necessary, and finding ways to insulate that area under and around the fire box, tunnel, and heat riser will reward with better efficiency. I always used firebrick splits to line firebox and tunnel (only 1" thick) for durability then clay and lots of perlite to hold everything together, insulate, and seal it all
So you build the entire firebox out of split firebrick?In the book the design is to build the riser out of split firebricks and the rest of the combustoin area out of full sized firebricks. Why you put also the clay first and then the perlite to insulate?I thought in the book the masonry around the firebox goes after the perlite covers the firebox.I guess it works both ways?
I will also second/third the idea that the batch burner design will reward you more than words can tell,---- but if you really are impatient to get on and start doing something, at least leave enough room on the firebox side to expand into the batch burner design when you tire of the novelty of the RMH and the work/attention to keep it fueled.
I liked my RMH, but I love my new Batch Burner
If it wasn't the middle of winter and I wasn't already tired of all the changes I've been making, I would likely go straight to the double shoebox design recently unveiled--maybe next year--
It is the batch box's height that prohibits me to build one so i am also waiting for the double shoebox design which seems smaller and simpler .
Burak Unver wrote:Hello, I want to build a rocket mass heater at my workplace. I have a steel 28" diameter (1/2 inch thick) steel pipe and I want to use it as a drum.
I have been searching for what should be the dimensions of the system, but couldn't find a ratio.
I attached an section image of the important dimensions.
I'm waiting for your advices..