Panagiotis Panagiotou

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since Dec 25, 2016
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Recent posts by Panagiotis Panagiotou

Tim Bermaw wrote:Really interesting read so far!

I'm wondering about the bacterial and fungal counts though.  For example:

Bryant RedHawk wrote:Squash, beans, peppers all want concentrations of 500 micrograms of bacteria and 250 micrograms of fungi.

Is it the the exact concentration that's important, or is it the ratio of bacteria-to-fungi that's (more) important?

From a practical point of view, if I wanted to grow, say, 50 different types of plant, with many close to each other and many intermixed, there's no way I can see 'a garden' actually working with 'exact' concentrations.

On the other hand, if the various plants (or families of plants) can be placed simply on a bacteria-fungus spectrum, then it would be much easier to nominate certain parts of the garden/property as "highly fungal" or "balanced" or "highly bacterial" then treat/maintain the soil in those areas accordingly and control the transitions from one soil biology to another.

I'm not sure if it already exists, but a reference that simply puts plants into five groups based on preferred soil biology ("Highly Bacterial", "Bacterial", "Balanced", "Fungal", "Highly Fungal") would seem to be an extremely useful and practical tool.

Would you want to divide your plot into these parts though?Would it be actually divide and conquer using our human brain?
3 weeks ago
Yes you can use them to feed the earth and create healthy soil.Especially since they are sitting for one year ,there are no concerns with so called allelopathic properties of some species.
Just don't till them in .

1 month ago

Vern Life wrote:I've been adding some olive trees to our orchard for the same reason. The Arbequina variety appears to be evergreen and it survived this winter with two separate weeks of snow in 7b PNW.

Yes the olive trees are evergreen.
1 month ago

Judith Browning wrote:I wonder if some of the time when folks here talk about using wood chips that they are really speaking about bark chips?

Here, anyway, the only place we can get wood chips, other than having our own chipper, is by catching the power company chipper and getting them to drop off a load.  Otherwise we can get bark chips at the many sawmills around here by the truck load (and sawdust also).

I would love to source more wood chips...they are just not so readily available in this area as bark...

It is being answered  in this video by Paul. You need the alive green material (chipped branches,twigs,leaves,needles etc.) that feed the soil in a quick manner and the more woody material
stays on top to cover the soil and retain moisture etc. So the answer would be wood chips t.You can also check the second video.

2 months ago

Burak Unver wrote:

Panagiotis Panagiotou wrote:

Regarding the gap of the manifold i would like to hear it from someone else in the forum.Are you going to use a 6 inch or an 8 inch system?

I have another question on my mind. What should be the thickness of the insulation layer? I'm asking this because If I make a thin insulation like 1.5 inches and we assume that the heat riser is 8" (8+1.5+1.5=11 inches for the riser and insulation)
The insie of my drum is 27 inches. (27-11)/2=8 inches of gap around the heat riser (B dimension in the first picture I post) 8 inches seems to much to me.. Should I make it even with the insulation layer? Does too thick insulation layer makes a negative effect on the system?


Some lay two inches of clay-stabilized perlite around the heat riser that then they support around the riser with metal mesh or sheet metal etc.
Usually problems in the draft are being caused by a small  cross sectional area in the manifold.
2 months ago

Abby Aylr wrote:I started a small back 2 eden garden two years ago. My main reason was to do less weeding. It worked great.very little weeding and results were good. But in year 2, weeds were a big problem. Much worse. My question that i cant seem to find an answer to is: does mulch need to be reapplied to the same area each year? Im guessing the mulch breaks down and thats the reason weeds were a worse problem in year 2. uowever i really dont see anywhere online where it says to reapply mulch each year. Just wondering what the norm is on this.

Yeah Paul says that he was surprised that the first  years he was finding the soil to be very hungry and
the mulch was disappearing rapidly and had to reapply.After many years of application he found that he doesnt need mow
to apply for years.

thomas rubino wrote:Jay; I believe the recommended size is 5.5" x 5.5"  on a 6" J tube. Common practice is to make the height slightly more to allow for an inch of ash to cover the burn tunnel floor.  So a 5.5" wide by 6.5" tall would be a better size to aim for.    

Looking at the book it states that depending on the height of the burn tunnel you also need to adjust the length of the feed tube opening to match the height of the tunnel.
2 months ago

bob day wrote:The combustion area of the stove is a place where the highest temps are necessary, and finding ways to insulate that area under and around the fire box, tunnel, and heat riser will reward with better efficiency. I always used firebrick splits to line firebox and tunnel (only 1" thick) for durability then clay and lots of perlite to hold everything together, insulate, and seal it all

So you build the entire firebox out of split firebrick?In the book the design is to build the riser out of split firebricks and the rest of the combustoin area out of full sized firebricks. Why you put also the clay first and then the perlite to insulate?I thought in the book the masonry around the firebox goes after the perlite covers the firebox.I guess it works both ways?

I will also second/third the idea that the batch burner design  will reward you more than words can tell,---- but if you really are impatient to get on and start doing something, at least leave enough room on the firebox side to expand into the batch burner design when you tire of the novelty of the RMH and the work/attention to keep it fueled.

I liked my RMH, but I love my new Batch Burner

If it wasn't the middle of winter and I wasn't already tired of all the changes I've been making, I would likely go straight to the double shoebox design recently unveiled--maybe next year--

It is the batch box's height that prohibits me to build one so i am also waiting for the double shoebox design which seems smaller and simpler .

2 months ago

Burak Unver wrote:Hello, I want to build a rocket mass heater at my workplace. I have a steel 28" diameter (1/2 inch thick) steel pipe and I want to use it as a drum.

I have been searching for what should be the dimensions of the system, but couldn't find a ratio.

I attached an section image of the important dimensions.

I'm waiting for your advices..


The height of the heat riser must be three times (at least)  the height of the feed tube where you load the wood.
The height of the heat riser must be two times (at least)  the length of the burn tunnel .
So if the height of the heat riser is 48 inches ,the height of the feed tube can not be more than 16inches and the length of the burn tunnel
cannot be more than 24 inches.

The gap from the top of the heat riser to the barrel rim is 5 cm/2 inches. 
The length of the feed tube opening and the heat riser opening should be the same as the height of the burn tunnel(the two courses of brick that you stack for the burn tunnel's height).
It would be good to purchase the Rocket Mass Heater Builder's Guide.
Regarding the gap of the manifold i would like to hear it from someone else in the forum.Are you going to use a 6 inch or an 8 inch system?

2 months ago