Cody DeBaun wrote:I would recommend a first flush diverter- they push the need to drain and clean a clogged IBC tote outlet back substantially, and can be quite simple and cheap.
like this one: pipe and bucket simple machine:
Morfydd St. Clair wrote:
I'd urge you to put at least a rain barrel in between your gutter and your soaking systems. When it's raining, you don't need to add more water at the exact same time - you probably need it a couple of days later. I'd be concerned about erosion or damage to young plants with a simultaneous double watering. So I'd recommend blocking gutter runoff from the garden into storage, when it's full redirecting it *away* from the garden, and releasing it to the garden on dry days.
If my assumption is wrong, then you could just unblock the connection. A rain barrel runs about $100 (some cities will provide subsidies, at least in the US) which is annoying if unneeded but probably small on the scale of a "water soaking system".
Tyler Ludens wrote:I believe that is called "open shade."
Mike Jay wrote:I think it depends on a few things...
- How tall are the fruit trees when you plant them (can they get sun if they can see over the fence)?
- How far from the fence would you plant them? Right on the N side of the fence will be in the shade most of the time but 2 feet away should be more sunny.
- How is the morning and evening sun? In the middle of the summer (Northern Hemisphere) the sun rises in the NE and sets in the NW so you may get some direct sun early and late.
My guess is that if you plant 4' high trees 1' away from the fence, they will get partial sun. Once they get a foot or two taller they'd have nearly full sun unless you have other trees/buildings providing shade. If you espalier them tight to the fence and keep them shorter than the fence, they'd be in full to part shade all the time.