knut inge

I wonder how well mulberry would do in this setting.

I hardly know of anyone planting mulberry in my area, but I am reading that they tend to be wind tolerant (some species being used for wind break), tolerating salt spray, and tolerant for different soil types.

M. Nigra being preferred for consumption, while Illinois everbearing (hybrid) preferred for robustness.

-k

Thekla McDaniels wrote:Hi Knut,

I don't know if pines have an anti rot factor, or just a "slow" rot rate, either way, that may be to your advantage, because when it does rain, you will not lose "everything".  I'm thinking it would help provide a slow and consistent source of "nutrients".  And a fast rot might overheat the pile and kill all the roots in the mound.

If so - perfect.

Have you held back from adding seaweed, or is the supply limited?  I think you could safely use huge amounts.

limited supply.

it is an interesting project.  The place sounds beautiful.  I might want to come visit.    

Sure

I think the wind might be important to consider.  How strong is it and how constant? Can you shelter from the wind in any way?  both for your self and for your plants?

Measurements at a lighthouse in the sea nearby is 5-6 m/s on average. Locally, trees and ground give some shelter. I have built a rocky "fence" for breaking up the wind and storing some heat. Will provide pictures of that later.

-k

Regional climate:
Temps: normal daily average:
>0C from mid march to mid december
>10C from mid may to mid october

Low on rain/clouds (blue skies)

Quite windy.

Local climate:
Flat landscape, can see the sun rising and setting in the horizon. Typical coastal climate with moderating mass of water.

I have used some shell sand for neutralizing acidic soil (after cleaning off the salt). Some seaweed, but not large quantities. The island is grazed by sheep, thus it is dominated by (the few)
plants that sheep do not touch. I have to fence in anything tasty.

I have tested the soil and found it highly acidic (have blended in fireplace soot).

My main "worry" is that pine trees have some kind of "anti-rot" that makes for bad/slow composting?

Given that I can carry limited amounts of external additives, would hen dropping compost be a reasonable alternative for my acidic, low neutrient, low micro life soil?

I have planted a couple of grapes, blackberry, strawberry. Planning to add (hardy) apricot, fig and possibly mulberry this year. Been moving a good deal of rocks and soil the last couple of years. Have a disused rain capture tank that I want to use for watering in the dry summer months. Pondering how to make it water a couple of times a week rather than continously(have seen some nice solar panel driven pumps).

Finally, this is one of the few areas where I have not seen the hated invasive Iberian Slug. Would hate being the one who introduce it locally, or making a slug haven from which the buggers can make further invasions.

-k

Hi all, first poster here.

I have a challenge in that I am working with mostly bare bedrock (some scots pine, some norway spruce), acidic soil. I would like to be able to plant diverse bushes and trees, but the property is not accessible by car - everything must be carried by boat and hand. I.e. getting 10 tonnes of compost soil is out of the question.

One issue is that rainfall tends to accumulate in pits after rainfall and in winter (root rot), while in summer drying out is a real problem.

We do have plenty of scots pine. My question is if I could/should use excess pine logs, branches and needles along with household food waste in hugel mounds with a thin layer of semi composed pine needles/soil on top. Would that stabilize moisture (if placed on a sloping piece of rock)? Would it turn into good soil and a nice spot to grow?

My hope is to be able to plant hardy figs and grapes, apricot, blackberry and strawberry. I do realize that this is going to be a multi-year project.

Would it make sense to introduce myko, as there is very little broad-leaves trees in the area due to sheep grazing.

Thanks for any response
Knut