Ken Hedgewood

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since Jul 28, 2017
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Recent posts by Ken Hedgewood

images on goggle maps   to : images on Google Maps    (proper name and sp.)

Looking forward to and honored by the invitation to watch the development of this treatise.
3 months ago
Thank You William!,   So do you think "layering" would work?  If I am using the term correctly that would look like weaving the vine through a pot of soil, back out and into the next pot, out and into the next. After a few weeks cut the "umbilical cord" and end up with probably 30 rooted cuttings.  I just did this with a friends strawberry plants for the first time and have had amazing success. Never thought it may work with grapes also.
 I was fearful of killing the vine with severe pruning, but your success gives me the confidence to cut back to 3-4' and then train any new growth horizontally. I will leave them in place and plant the fruit tress around them.   Any idea of the best direction?  It seems like the vineyards I've seen orient their trellis' east and west. or does it matter?  
As for the pollarding: This works well with several hardwoods, oaks , hickory's and cherry,etc. but not the pines, which in my experience have never survived the severe cut.
9 months ago
Im in zone 7b  NC piedmont 6.4 acres  1.5 +acres of mixed pine.  Oak ,hickory dogwood on the rest. We are clearing  much of the pine for a fruit grove/orchard  mostly apples. I need advice on two questions today. Can the fruit trees be intermixed with The thinned loblolly and white pines that remain.? The lower quality trees are being chopped and dropped for coarse mulch.  They are very dense, so most are 30' or more tall, before any green so the sunlight is filtered rather than direct. or should they be clear cut?   Also I have been blessed to find a few mature Muscadine grape vines among the trees where the pines meet the hardwoods    The grapes are of good quality.  The vines are 30-40' long.  Can they be successfully moved? OR Can they be severely pruned back and trellised?  will that kill them?, OR leave the long vine intact and woven to an arbor where they now grow?  My questions make it clear that I have NO previous vineyard experience, so your help and thoughts are coveted.

Please redirect the topic to a more appropriate location as needed
9 months ago
You have described the two box store trees in my yard. I chose to cut branches back (while dormant) to about a 4 foot wide crown on these semi dwarf rootstocks. This left branches from 1-5 inches in diameter, four on tree one and twelve+ on tree two. One branch of the original tree was left untouched. Each branch was grafted with a different variety in March (after the bark slipped) and completed two weeks later in April.  One inch branches got one graft, two inch branches got two grafts etc.  We have been using neem oil to combat the aphid attack, and frequent rain has allowed too much moisture under the grafting tape. All the tape was removed this weekend and we are hopeful that the moldy areas will survive.  That said, there are successful healthy grafts on all but one branch. The plan is to retain the most healthy grafts and cull down to one or two at most grafts per branch.  The larger tree should produce a dozen or more varieties. It is interseting to note that there has been new growth sprouts ranging from 10" to some at 4'-5' (feet).
My vote is to keep and top graft the healthy base tree. It will supposedly bear fruit in 2-3 years as opposed to 7-10 years if you re-plant.  For context, this is my rookie season for grafting, so having had modest success, I would encourage you to give it a try. U-tube videos were helpful in giving confidence to try something never before done by anyone in my circles.  k
10 months ago
My grafting experiment began this march.  Apple scions onto 3/16-1/4" seedlings in 2 gallon pots.  whip and tongue with a knife.  The 3/16 size was hard to work with, but was mostly successful at just below 90%.    The next batch was on two top worked  8yr old box store trees that never produced well   41 rind  or bark grafts  with 8 failures.   Three of the failures were due to my rookie knife skills coupled with poor placement. two were possibly due to suspect scions.   in any case 80%. The grafts that "took" on these top worked branches showed by far the most vigorous growth of all the grafts, including the diameter and the vigor of the shoots. I have learned that 4-5 " shoots may seem viable, but they are being nourished from the scion only (and eventually fail), and not through the graft. When they grow to about 6" and beyond they are then usually successful grafts.  A few weeks into the experiment I then purchased some Antonovka rootstock (75) about 1/4 " diameter to take advantage of the 17 varieties of scion wood gifted to me.  I'm still clearing the land for my future orchard site, so these were grafted and potted in two batches in 2 gallon pots  The first 30  had three failures  so 90%.  The next 35 had one failure. 5 of these were not grafted but left to produce variety #18 (antonovka). looks like 96%  on the second 30 grafts. The second 30 were dusted  on the bare roots with a Mychorrizal (4 type) formula.  These were clearly the most vigorous of the potted grafts, so I would definitely dust all bare rootstocks in the future.  On the Antonovka grafts I found and used a 15.00 grafting tool using modified (U) cut.   The grafting tools I had found on various sites were priced from 70-150.00 for what seemed to be the same tool as what was purchased. It produced clean cuts , had three cutter types, and has now produced 70+ grafts, and could be rotated to a second cutting edge on each blade, or resharpened when that became necessary.  found on T mart site. I was willing to spend .20 per graft for the 15.00 cutter  but the 2.00 per graft for the 150.00 unit was not in my budget. Having said that, the results have been so encouraging, and the process enjoyable that I can see this becoming a possible revenue source as my skills develop. This inexpensive (cheap) tool could easily produce hundreds of grafts lowering the cost per graft to pennies.   If the neem oil continues to repel the hungry aphids drinking from all the new and tender leaves, there may be a picture of an orchard to post in a few years.  Thank you shout out to the many who share their experiences and expertise on this site.
11 months ago
I use 4" black flex pipe, 2x 15' sections if memory is correct. THe version with holes for drainage. Suggest avoiding the dry well. Slight down hill pitch about 6' Has been trouble free. About 18" deep in zone 7, with no trap used in winter.
1 year ago