John Indaburgh

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since Dec 09, 2017
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Recent posts by John Indaburgh

I just know that someone is going to suggest you plant more seeds. Didn't read the whole thread. I'll put on the popcorn!
You might find some later details at the USDA ARS search page. Some items appear to be available, but that's mostly an illusion as they don't care to share. But the site has some research value. If you click on the advanced search you get the opportunity to include item's not currently available or no longer in the collection. They are most generous with apple scions unless they think you're a pest.

Good luck with your project.
3 weeks ago
My experiences align with Ellendra's; posted above. The lot next door has been vacant since the house was torn down. There's a huge patch of "feral" garlic and I discussed it with a neighbor who's related to the last occupant who told me that the garlic came from a relative's garden and was German Red. So I dug some up; huge clumps of garlic. Many bulbs and rounds in a massive clump. I picked out some of the biggest bulbs which were no more than an inch and planted them in the fall. The next year I got some really large bulbs and a lot of normal sized garlic bulbs which to me looks exactly like German Red.

A couple years later I also had some heart problems and couldn't harvest the garlic. At planting time I dug some up after they had sprouted and planted out what we might call garlic starts. This spring they greened up and I fully expect a normal crop of garlic bulbs. I also agree with the observation that the huge field of "feral garlic" for the most part is weed free. The deer browse thru it and eat up some of the weeds and that does a pretty good job weeding what few other plants are there.

Seems to me you don't have to fence your garlic and I'm guessing that would also apply to onions and maybe any alliums. The wild garlic greens up to where the plants are at least a foot tall in the fall. Last winter the day before a big snow storm there were a lot of deer eating the greens but this spring the garlic regrew.
3 weeks ago
Sounds like your clay needs amending. You might consider aerating the lawn areas. Front and back. There are aerators that the golf industry uses that will drill 8-10 inches deep. The tow behind a riding mower models only pull a plug about 2 inches if you have enough weight on it. The golf industry models drive a rod and don't pull a plug. Then if you apply an inch of mushroom compost, MC, some of that will go deep into the clay. Help with getting more of the surface water to go into the soil instead of running off. From my experience the grass will grow thru the MC, new or existing grasses. But I don't have the experience with your water shortages. so I don't know how much vigorous growth is required to get the grass to grow thru the MC
4 weeks ago
I'm not knowledgeable about growing grass in your climate, but you seem to be nibbling at grasses that we grow here. So I'm going to state what I know.
Both fescues and Kentucky Bluegrass spread by rhizomes. Both will also cause "Red Dust" and "Red Thread" both fungal problems which you may not have a problem with if you don't have enough moisture in your lawn. But keeping the amounts of both of them low will prevent that. In this area we plant with about 70% perennial ryegrass which will prevent the fungal problems from showing. Also both the fescues and the Kentucky Bluegrass will require "dethatching". With a high ratio of perennial ryegrass that problem is also eliminated.

Some of the fescues will tolerate less sunlight, but since they aren't drought tolerant won't grow under massive trees. But a sprinkler system would eliminate that problem.

Fescues go to seed at a height lower than the 3" I cut at. Perennial Ryegrass seeds at about a foot; so the fescues will spread very well by seeds. I don't know what height the bluegrass seeds at.

When I seed grass I use a mix called Pennington Penn State mix, all of the grasses stay green all winter. My lawn also has some weeds in it. There's a lot of white clover, some dandelions, bent grass and even wild strawberries. And a wide range of other weeds. The result is that the lawn stays green all year. In the summer the bentgrass shows up as the predominate item in the lawn and is the reason it stays green all summer, even the areas that never get watered. I can buy bentgrass and tried it once, but it didn't germinate.

To summarize prepare the ground by raking. Possibly dragging a rake behind a riding mower, slowly so the rake doesn't bounce. Then apply the seed. I'd recommend 10 pounds per 1000 sq ft. I sow it by hand out of a big plastic bag. I cover newly sown grass with mushroom compost about an inch thick. This will help keep the seed from drying out, and will act as a semi permanent soil amendment. Don't seed after applying a weed preventer, at least 90 days.

If you want a nice lawn you're going to have to water. In this part of the country we don't have a water shortage. I have a well, 160 feet deep. Been here 17 years and it never went dry. Except for evaporation the water I apply to the lawn and the gardens goes back into the ground, so none is used. Agreed that some evaporates and the plants use a lot. What the plants use is what their requirements are. So it's a choice of supplying those needs or not having the plants. I'm saying this knowing that you have different water problems and apologize if I'm too blunt.
4 weeks ago
I'd check out the rental cost of a riding stump grinder. Don't forget to take out any obvious large roots. Alternatively pay someone with a large riding stump grinder to get rid of them. Possibly the outfit that cut the trees.
I can't believe that any business would assume that they will maintain their entire customer base. If I remember 1/7th of Americans move in any one year. So if that's still accurate they won't likely get paid for a minimum 14% of the work they do. I might investigate who regulates that industry and either threaten to file a complaint or just go ahead and do it. A years worth of organic veggies can be expensive.
4 weeks ago
All of my 20 grafts to the Bradford pear were unsuccessful. The pear graft to the rootstock was also a failure. The Stella and the Montmorency grafts to two in the ground rootstocks were successful.

It's my guess that it was too late in the season for grafting; especially to an early blooming Bradford pear. I'm going to repeat grafting to the Bradford pear next year and focus on scheduling shipping for March or buying scions from someone else who will ship earlier. Most of this years scions arrived in April. It's my opinion that the grafts need to be done while the tree is dormant; so that the graft union has time to heal before the tree is actively growing and the scion is budding out and needing the resources that can't be pumped thru the unhealed graft.

I did one graft to this tree last year; a Shenandoah pear. It was successful, so I see no other reason for 20 failures except for the timing.
4 weeks ago
I agree with Mr Lofthouse; just keep mowing. Don't let the weeds get high enough to be overwhelming. The more you cut the "lawn"; the more seeds will sprout in the increased sunlight. And you also need to keep the weeds from setting seed.
1 month ago
You don't have to complete the whole soil prepping job before you start planting.
1 month ago