J. O'Chesco

If the deck roof doesn’t have enclosed walls and the floor would allow water to pass through (rai, garden hose, pressure washing) the the under deck ceiling is considered a wet location by nec. You’ll need to use UF wire from the switch box out. Some inspectors would be fine with a small coil of wire hanging under there for future use if the switch isn’t connected but to be safe land the UF into a weatherproof box using a weatherproof UF connector. This box can be much further than you ever plan to have the first light and when the layout is finalized the extra wire cut off.
You will have a hard time finding wet rated can lights but I have details for those too when the time comes. Installed 12 under deck “recessed” lights on two projects last month, passed inspections and customers happy.

I built raised beds over Japanese knotweed, it would often come up in the beds and they kids and I would enjoy pulling it out. The loose soil in the beds made it so when pulled the knotweed snapped 12” deep at the original soil line and a long piece was removed. This happened less and less each year.

It could be the vent stack is clogged so air is being sucked down the toilet to release the vacuum behind what is traveling down the pipe. Have you tried snaking through the roof vent?
If this is the case enzymes or anything else put down the pipe won’t work, unless maybe If it’s poured down the vent.

Your efforts may have a much better return if you concentrate on powering the tools directly. Pedal or treadle powered table saws lathes etc are out there.

I think a lot of people have a very similar story, myself included.

I'm in PA (ChesCo) I'm thinking tulip poplar. Have you seen it in other seasons?

Try pricing electrical fittings for emt. They have 45s 90s etc. all pre bent with set screws.
Note.. You're looking for the fittings that look like pre bent conduit not the pull elbows with a door/cover for accessing the wires.
Also you could find a cheap used emt hand bender of ebay or such and bend all the conduit you want for the cost  of a few fittings.

James Freyr wrote:I believe you can grow short day onions in a long day environment, they'll just be ready to harvest sooner..

That would be good, I guess I'll plant them and see what happens.

Bryant RedHawk wrote: Another is to check the packet for best growing zone, most onion seeds that will grow in zone 3, 4 or 5 are going to be short day varieties. .

Redhawk

Oddly enough this packet and the one I mailed of both only show the color coded us map with outdoor sowing dates for the whole country.
I'm still confused that this variety name only exists at Walmart how it makes sense to have a specific variety and package just for them..? Strange.

Red Smith wrote:
Or.......Harbor Freight sells a six hp motor for $99.00

Keep in mind these generators commonly have a tapered shaft on the motor specific to generator heads. The motors are usually very difficult to separate from the gen head and if you do then you'll need to modify the tapered hole to accept a pulley or straight shaft motor.

Is there anyway to know if an onion variety is long day or short day iF it doesn't say on the package? Do the days to harvest help indicate which it is?
Excited to get onion seeds started I bought to packets from two big box stores and didn't bother to check the packs cause why would they sell short day varieties in the north right?  I looked them up online and one is in fact a short day so I mailed it of to a friend. The other name doesn't exist anywhere except the big box store website. I don't want to waste seed starting space on an onion that won't bulb.
Burped onion countrywide hybrid 125 days to harvest Spanish type.
Should I chance it, find new seeds or is there away to know.