Richard Henry

I just checked how widely distributed palm trees are in France.  It appears palms are found fairly widely albeit more frequently in the southern portion of the country. Why?  Palm trees are found along the California coast and in other warmer areas of the United States and have some often forgotten maintenance requirements, especially in fire weather.  Most palms grow by setting new leaves on the upper part of the canopy while the lower fronds die and tend to remain on the underside of the canopy.  These palm fronds need to be removed when they die because they are tinder on the wind.  I have seen video of flaming palm fronds being sucked into areas beneath roof eaves.  They will tend to remain beneath an eave burning merrily and attempting to set the home on fire.

Olga, I hear you regarding the terra-cotta tile roofs.  While they have strengths, they also display a fire vulnerability.  Unless there are bird stops installed along the tile edge, sparks have been shown to travel up under the tiles and set fires to the underlying wood support, especially in old wood that has dried from heat in attic areas.https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/TechnicalNotes/NIST.TN.1794.pdf

Terra-cotta roof tiles have been found to be subject to cracking or breakage due to errors in construction methods.  If powered nailers or even hand operated hammers drive fasteners too far, damage can readily occur.  This could allow penetration of the tile by firebrand sparks and. during high wind events, can cause tiles to break and pull away from the roof.  In this instance of high wind damage, additional damage can occur as pieces of broken tile are carried along the roof with additional tiles receiving damage.  Although not likely in an area such as France, in areas subject to high winds, the tiles themselves can become dangerous.  I know of one instance where a couple had installed plywood shutters over their windows to protect from a hurricane and its wind-blown debris.  The wife was seated on a couch and a piece of tile debris penetrated the plywood shutter and embedded itself into the wall next to her head.  The source of the tile was later determined to be about a quarter mile from the impact site.

Olga:  I am so sorry you and Hugo have had to learn the vagaries of the climate of Earth so quickly.  I am a geologist with over 55 years of practice and another 20 years of life to draw from.  Where I live, in the rural hills of Central NY, we also have a verdant and green area.  However, in my life I have seen even this area scorched by intense drought.  Few people now are aware that could even happen.  I have worked in disaster response, so am far too familiar with those places that ceased to be safe for too many reasons.  Due to that, and the fact I have studied ancient climates, I am all too aware that things can change very quickly.  Even with extremely few and limited wildfires locally, I have taken the lessons from California fires and maintain no small shrubs or wild grasslands around my farm buildings.  I maintain a large pond (constructed during that last major drought) that will provide fire crews with resources if needed.  I grow short, green lawns far larger than I need because they are also fire breaks.  I have transitioned asphalt roofing on my home to metal.  Each new project is reviewed for future potential.  

I do want to add to my previous fire prevention tips, a consideration of the opposite.  Floods. After an area has been exposed to wildfire, it can become subject to much more frequent and deadly floods.  When I worked the wildfires in Southern California, I also was part of a team that studied and provided enhanced flood risks (the pilot for many since).  Arid and semi-arid areas are lands of extremes and the floods can be horrible.  We found some flood risk zones that dropped from a 100-year to an 18-year return period.  Please remember to review any flood risk information or just take a close look around at potential flood risks.  Remember that stronger floods may damage or remove bridges and debris can choke a stream, causing the flood to jump its bed and run amok among areas normally safe from the water.  

Alas, we all are finding that Earth is not as kindly and slow to reach as we once knew.  Even more of a reason to engage in permie thinking and not that of the crowd.

I worked on Southern California wildfires during a particularly large outbreak.  Here are some things I found out.
Wildfires produce infrared heat that can ignite flammable materials out to roughly 130 meters.  Good idea to remove wood stacked next to structures for winter.
A major issue is what are called "ladder fuels". These are small shrubs or vines next to larger trees. Once they ignite, the fire can climb the ladder into the top of the larger tree.
Remove all dainty and lace curtains from windows as the heat from wildfires can penetrate the glass and ignite such tinder.
Maintain a buffer zone of at least 120 meters around structures if possible.
Heat from wildfires can penetrate window glass.  Study by an American codes agency found that vinyl window frames will tend to soften in the heat and drop the glass out of the window readily.  Best fire resistance for windows can be shutters with commercial aluminum wrapped around the shutter and then lock it so the wind cannot open the shutter and blow the aluminum away.
Sparks from wildfire were found to penetrate even screen as small as 1/4 inch squares over vents.  Suggest use no larger than 1/8 inch screen over vents.
There are various types of fire resistant materials, some long term, some short term.  A Florida fireman developed a spray that uses the same absorbant material in diapers by spraying it over the exterior of fuel tanks and structures.  Fire temperature resistant to around 3,000 degrees F.  See url: https://firegel.com/
There are special roof underlays that allow a metal or concrete shingle roof to hold a class A fire rating (1,200 degrees F for at least 2 hours).
There are special intumescent paints that provide a class A or better fire rating. https://www.firefree.com/firefree-88-technical/
If your area defaults to asphalt roads, remember that fires can soften the road topping when fire equipment attempts to travel over it.
Wildfire will climb a steep slope much faster due to preheating/drying of material up the hill.  Homes placed on the edge of a steep slope will see fire speeds in excess of a mile per minute.

Remember that wildfires live on oxygen the same as people and animals but at much lower concentrations.  Even vehicle engines can suffocate if wildfire is on both sides of a road.  Leave early if evacuation warnings are sent.

Ensure you have all vital papers and Rx (including glasses)in a container that everyone in the home knows has to go during any evacuation.

Set up special codes and contacts for all family members, preferably outside any impact area to allow family and friends to keep track of one another.

This is a true abundance of thoughts.  I have researched Japanese Knotweed and have a couple of thoughts.  I see Diane considers Knotweed good for shading creeks and ponds.  One slight problem is that Knotweed spreads using rhizomes - big tuber-like structures and have almost to no rootlets.  Why is that a problem?  Rootlets are required to hold the soil along creeks and ponds.  When Knotweed grows right up the the edge of a water course, it allows the banks to be more deeply eroded during bank full or floods (around my part of the country, bank full is roughly 1.4 years).  Bank full to flood is when a stream will work the hardest.  Not enough energy in lower flows. In England, Knotweed is Falopia Japonica and has a very dangerous reputation.  If any project is intended near a stream, a full environmental study has to prove that no Knotweed is in the area.  They have experienced full destruction of some foundations and dams due to the power of Knotweed rhizome growth.

Knotweed contains multiple phenolic chemical compounds.  Reservatrol is a wonder drug.  It has been shown by Johns Hopkins to exceed both Doxycycline and Tetracycline for control of long-term Lyme disease.  It is antiviral, antibacterial, anticarcinogenic (4 types and growing) and anti-inflammatory.  I have used the anti-inflamatory properties in excess of 10 years to keep walking after diagnosis of severe siatica.  Knotweed also contains Quercitin, a drug capable of controlling the production of cytokines in the lungs (mucus producing cells).  My wife finally took some and swears by it now.  Both Reservatrol and Quercetine were identified in National Institute of Health studies to curb Covid symptoms.  I never had a bout, which I ascribe to my regular injestion of Reservatrol.  

Beyond its health benefits, Knotweed is allotropic, it inhibits germination of seeds and growth of many plants.  I have a friend who has discussed testing it to see if the juice might reduce roadside weeds without harming wildlife.  Open experiment for anyone to try.  We have not been able to determine which part of the plant contains the highest percentages to harvest and crush.  Since only the liquid would be used, there would be no opportunity for any pieces of rhizome to sneak through and that is how virtually all Knotweed in the US spreads. That is another concern regarding allowing it to grow along streams.  Any chunks of rhizome that break off during flooding will float downstream and spread.  A piece the size of a thumbnail is said to grow from a burial of 3 feet.  

Knotweed produces flowers in abundance, which bees seem to love.  The honey from those flowers is said to contain many of the positive health benefits of the parts of the plant.  According to the references I have read, the plants do not produce seed that grows.  

The bit i find hard to understand is having a septic and a well on the same property.
How is that safe?

John:  A drinking water well and a septic system must be separated by a minimum distance (generally 150 ft to 200 fe in the United States).  It depends on the potential for septage to move down a water table gradient in a specific soil.

If the roof pitch is east-west, then I would suggest using a lean to roof.  Placing a winter night/storm cover of metal over foam would allow decent insulation during the coldest periods.  Placing closed cell foam over at least the upper three feet of the wall would be useful and I would double the foam on the north side.  Placing barrels of water in strategic locations could allow a decent thermal buffer.  The barrels along the north wall could serve as supports for a table for holding plants.  As a secondary thought, along the south wall, construct a cold frame below ground level with insulated panels to cover the clear ones similar to the roof.  Design the cold frame to allow placing fresh horse manure in the fall.  The composting of that manure should provide some good heat and against the thermal mass of the south wall of the spring house, would add some longevity to the growing season for curcibars at least.  While the system may not withstand the rigors of a full Pennsylvania winter, I would bet you could harvest till nearly January and restart around March for hardened plants.  Just some thoughts.

When I first read this, it came to mind that this might be a subject common among preppers rather than permies.  When I did a quick search, bingo, there were a ton of potential recipies.  Here is a list from one site.
1. Chai Tea
2. Fruit & Spice Tea
3. Mulling Spices Mix
4. Russian Tea
5. Tropical Tea
6. Beef Vegetable Barley Soup Mix
7. Confetti Bean Soup
8. Hearty Bean Soup
9. Meat & Potatoes Casserole in a Jar
10. Onion Soup Mix
11. Palouse Soup Mix
12. Pasta Shell Soup
13. Scalloped Potatoes in a Jar
14. Split Pea Soup Mix
15. Beef Gravy Mix
16. Curried Rice Mix
17. Homemade Chicken Gravy
18. Sloppy Joe Mix
19. Taco Seasoning
20. Enchilada Sauce Mix
21. French Dressing
22. Italian Dressing
23. Buttermilk Pancake Mix
24. Carrot Raisin Bread in a Jar
25. Cinnamon Pancake Mix
26. Flaky Pie Crust Mix
27. Granola Mix
28. Instant Oatmeal (3 Kinds!)
29. Moist Pie Crust Mix
30. Pizza Crust Mix
31. Applesauce Cookie Mix
32. Candy Cookies in a jar
33. Caramel Nut Cake in a Jar
34. Carrot Cake Mix
35. Chocolate Cake in a Jar
36. Chocolate Covered Raisin Cookie Mix
37. Cocoa Peanut Butter Cookie Mix
38. Coconut Cream Pudding Mix
39. Coffee Mug Cakes (5 Kinds!)
40. Cornflake Cookie Mix
41. Cowboy Cookies
42. Cranberry HootyCreeks
43. Crazy Cake in a Jar
44. Dreamsicle Cookie Mix
45. Hawaiian Cookie Mix
46. M&M Oatmeal Bar Mix
47. Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Mix
48. Oatmeal Scotchies
49. Orange Slice Cookie Mix
50. Pina Colada Cake in a Jar
51. Pumpkin Cake in a Jar
52. Reese's Peanut Butter Cup Cookie Mix
53. Sandart Brownies
54. Sugar Cookies in a jar
55. Trail Mix Cookie Mix
56. Triple Chocolate Chip Cookie Mix
57. Vanilla Pudding Mix
58. White Chocolate Macadamia Nut Cookie Mix
59. White Fruit Cake in a Jar
60. Zucchini Bread in a Jar

The URL to download a PDF of all 60 recipies is:https://seasonedcitizenprepper.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/60giftmixesjarrecipes.pdf

If other recipies are wanted, happy hunting in the prepper aisle.

A quick glance at the roof indicates it is far newer than the original one.  I wonder if the original roof was, perhaps sod?  That would allow for cooler inside temperatures than this chipboard and shingle one.  I would be careful and regularly test any water seeping in as this is shallow enough to allow seepage of surface water.  Any animals around the lawn could be providing bacteria that would not be helpful.  Placing closed cell foam on the outside of the walls would be much less picturesque, but good to keep out surface seepage with associated fungi, bacteria, etc. and maintaining temperatures more in a continuous range. The zone indicates much of NC and the upland region of SC, North Georgia (outside taller mountainous areas) and much of north Alabama.  Current soil temps at 8" down are showing temps in the mid-to upper 70's.  I would not suggest this would work as a decent tornado shelter. That roof is not likely structurally attached to the walls and even then, the cement on what appears to be limestone looks quite old and showing its age.  Does the home have a basement?  I would guess not or it would be wetter than this. In the areas most commonly identified as zone 8a, tornadoes have a bad habit of hiding until they pounce.  It is not a good idea to have a shelter outside the home in such areas, too much exposed travel in potentially deadly conditions.

The vegetation beyond the springhouse in the first picture with the home appears to be heading down into a channel.  That would indicate potential for flooding and if so, the remnants of a flood in a building like this are less than desirable.

It definately looks cool and I really wish it could be easily modified to be worth the upkeep.  Perhaps there are other homes with such structures in the area?  If so, ask the owners if they know what they were used for.  On meditating on the photo of the interior, what if the roof was modified to a greenhouse and then used for starting plants in the spring.  I could really see that as a use since drought would be past the plant starting portion of the season, but the chances of frost past February inside would be minimal.  Any open water on the floor would help to maintain a frost-free growing area with favorable humidity.  Just a wild thought.

This is a great deal of experience in one place.  I do have a question regarding areas subject to high wind in conjunction with heavy rain.  I worked in codes and building science for some time and remember in Florida, 2004, that multiple hurricane events overlapping the same areas proved too much even for concrete walls.  Modern homes constructed in the U.S.have an internal vulnerability.  High winds can develop very strong pressure gradients between the outside and the interior of the home.  What we saw in 2004 in Florida was the fact that concrete blocks subjected to multiple high wind events with heavy rain saturated the interior of the blocks.  That water began to seep through the walls after the storms.  My proposal would provide a nod to rainscreen techologies.  If a wall's exterior is coated or covered by a water resistant material such as plaster or cob, then wooden slats could be anchored to the bales and siding placed over the slats.  There should be weeps on each piece of siding's lower limit and infiltration areas on the top of each piece,  That provides an equalization chamber that allows wind pressure (which can force water at least 8 inches vertically) to reduce such that any water than enters flows down the back of the siding and is not driven into the main body of the wall.  The slats must be limited to smaller blocks by being broken up both vertically and horizontally.  This reduces wind pressure buildup between the outside and inside of the structure.

A note on secondary foundations if attempting to place straw bales on the outside of a wood wall.  One should construct the outer foundation to be at least an inch lower than the original foundation.  This helps any moisture that might seem from the inner wall or a void along the top plate to flow down and out of the home.  If level or above the interior foundation wall, the opposite can occur and that would be challenging.

For Matthew in Clemson, I understand mice may not make nests in straw bales, but what about insects such as fire ants?  Just curious.

Most nesting bees and wasps use pheromones to locate their nest Decoys work because they often predate other species nests or larvae.
Number one, always clean or remove in the dark. That protects you and allows you to work. Next, use something that replaces the “home” smell. Several essential oils fit the bill. Peppermint, clove and lemongrass are strong and bees dislike them. Get a spray bottle and add 1/2 cup of water with 10 drops of peppermint essential oil, possibly with clove oil and some liquid dish soap. The soap acts as a surfactant (breaks down the surface tension of the water) to allow mixing. I would suggest spraying down the entire mailbox, both inside and out to completely eliminate the pheromones and blind the wasps’ ability to recognize the site as home.

While wasps and bees are vital in the garden, they have plenty of safe spaces to use for nests. If you feel bad about eviction, it’s possible to provide dry, sheltered spaces for them away from your travel paths.

Remember, the dark is your friend.