Christine Megowan

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since Feb 27, 2018
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Recent posts by Christine Megowan

Oh yay! A topic I actually know something about! My day job is as a rare books librarian, and while working on my MLIS degree, my student job was in a library conservation lab repairing books very much like this one. That said, I am *not* a trained conservator, and that student job was 12+ years ago, so please apply your own good judgment to any or all of the following suggestions.

As other posters have already said, the first thing you need to do is decide what type of repair you want and what your budget is in terms of time and money. Do you want something cheap and easy? Or something that will last for several decades?

"Archival" tape will bring the book back to a usable state with a minimum of effort and expense, but will eventually cause damage to it. That damage will happen much more slowly than if you used normal tape, but with any kind of tape, the adhesive will eventually fail and in the meantime the tape will make the paper stiffer, with a hard edge where the tape ends. The paper will crease and eventually tear along that hard edge of the tape. That may take a decade or two, which may be good enough for your purposes, but if you're really talking about "archival" repair, you're thinking in terms of lasting 50-100 years or more. (I put "archival" in quotes because there is no industry standard for what makes a product or a process archival. More specific terms to look for on "archival" products are acid-free, lignin-free, pH-neutral, or in some cases pH-buffered.)

If you opt for a repair that involves glue, as Pearl Sutton said earlier, you want something that will stay flexible over time. Ideally, it will also be pH neutral. In the conservation lab, we used PVA. If you can't find any locally, libraries tend to order from suppliers like University Products, Gaylord, Demco, and Hollinger Metal Edge (in the USA) and Gresswell and PEL (in the UK).

If you're reasonably crafty, you could do a hinge repair something like what's shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O5XF91kDC8

There are, of course, much more involved repairs that could be done, but this seems like it would be relatively sturdy and requires a minimum of special tools and equipment. The one modification/addition I might make is to tear a narrow strip of Japanese paper (which has longer fibers than Western-style papers and leaves a very feathered edge when torn) and using it to reinforce the repair on the inside of the book and cover any gap that may show where the cloth hinge has been inserted. To attach the strip of paper, I would use something like a wheat or rice starch paste instead of PVA. To do this, you would follow a process very much like what's shown in this video from about the 3:00 mark onward, except attaching the strip of paper to the pages that are still attached to the book, instead of loose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QN8vh-i2Y4Q

The feathered edge of the torn Japanese paper alleviates the problem of the pages cracking along the hard edge of the repair, like with archival tape. A starch paste won't be as strong as PVA, but that can sometimes be a good thing, because it's better for the adhesive to fail than for the adhesive to be so strong that it causes other parts of the book to break. Unlike PVA, a repair done with starch paste can also be removed by carefully rehydrating the paste.

To tear a neat strip of Japanese paper, you need to weaken the paper in a straight line somehow. For a very feathered tear, you can use a water brush (or a narrow paintbrush and some water) to wet the paper in a neat line along a straight edge and then gently pull the paper apart along the line, like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUqkPlKo3EU. Alternatively, you can fold and crease the paper and then tear it carefully along the fold. Or you can use a bone folder or the blunt back edge of your knife to score the paper and then tear along the scored line. These options tend to cut at least some of the fibers though, resulting in a less feathered edge.

If you want to replace the missing pages, you can try to track down another copy via interlibrary loan (you can search for library copies worldwide via www.worldcat.org) and request photocopies or scans of the missing pages. Then you can trim the copied pages to the same size as the rest of the book and then tip them in. (video tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvTK8tUCcmA)

I hope this helps!
6 years ago
Hello! Long-time (hobby) seamstress, medium-time lurker, first-time poster, so please excuse any inadvertent faux pas.

Annette Jones wrote:All the others saying they are 100% cotton are not. Cotton DOES NOT STRETCH naturally or have "give in the fabric. Those panties show that they cling to the body so they MUST have some type of lycra or similar stretch fabric incorporated into the cotton, wool, silk or bamboo fabric, otherwise they could not cling to your shape like these are shown to.


You're right that the Japanese loincloths are the only 100% cotton options listed above, but maybe not for the reason that you think.

Fabric has a number of features that can affect how much it clings to the body. Probably the biggest one is whether it's knit or woven. Woven fabrics don't stretch unless there is some synthetic fiber like elastic in them, but knit fabrics (like t-shirts) can stretch quite a lot, even when made from non-stretchy fibers like cotton. This is because knit fabrics are made from a single thread which loops back on itself quite a lot (just like the yarn in a knitted sweater or blanket, only much, much smaller). When you pull on the fabric it stretches because all of those little loops in the yarn are straightening out. In woven fabrics, the criss-crossing warp and weft threads run in more or less straight lines already, so there's no slack to take up (unless you pull them on a diagonal or bias, but that's a whole 'nother ball of wax). For more info, see this article from Threads magazine: Knits & Wovens: What's the Difference?.

That said, although 100% cotton knit fabrics can stretch, they won't necessarily cling to you tightly enough to hold themselves up without the aid of either a drawstring or a piece of elastic around the waist. So while the *fabric* might be 100% cotton, all of the non-loincloth options shown above appear to have an elastic waistband around the top.

Any of those designs could be made 100% by replacing the elastic waistband with a drawstring, but drawstrings aren't nearly as comfortable or easy to get on and off as elastic waistbands. (I know; I've spent several days at Victorian re-enactment events in drawers with drawstring waists.) I suppose you could try splitting the difference by making a drawstring using a narrow knitted I-cord or lucet cord which has a bit of stretch, again, due to loops in the thread being able to straighten out.
6 years ago