Thomas Tipton

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since Feb 07, 2018
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Recent posts by Thomas Tipton

Hi Staci.

I've been following your build with much interest.  In regards to your RMH troubles, I just wanted to weigh in with my two cents.  First, I find it odd that you have trouble with the draft not being strong enough to keep the fire from creeping up the feed tube, but then we are entertaining the idea that draft is so strong it's preventing your mass from heating up.

From what I have seen I would surmise that you need more space between the top of the riser and the barrel lid.  While two inches of clearance should be enough, I just have a hunch this area is the point of restriction that is keeping your dragon from performing to it's fullest.  Maybe others can weigh in on this?

Good luck to you in resolving this issue.  I'm very much impressed with your accomplishment thus far.
2 weeks ago
Update.  I consulted Matt Walker regarding high velocity flue gas erosion.  He stated he did not see any evidence of this in his builds.  No concerns.  I also asked him if he thought a masonry cement facing such as Satanite and a layer of ceramic fabric on the ceramic fiber board might make it more durable.   Again, he stated he did not think it would provide any added benefit to be worth the effort.  

Not having yet handled this material and having no experience with it's durability, I just wanted to cast my line out once more for any opinions on the matter.  I thought I'd read that Erica Wisner had remarked that using dense firebrick in the feed tube of a J-Rocket as a means of protecting the ceramic fiber from the rough and tumble of the firewood could lead to smokeback due to the brick reversing the draw after the main part of the burn. So it might well be best to not use any firebrick in the feed tube at all.  I'm trying to get a better mental grip on how the ceramic board fares when used unprotected in the feed tube.  Can anyone speak to that point?

I took notice that there have been other inquiries made as to the durability of Pinhead's five minute riser.  2+ years and going with no discernible wear and tear.  That is encouraging!

Thank's again to everyone for all their help.

I have located a supplier for my barrels.  A build is on the horizon.
4 months ago
Thomas,

I was not aware that the board and blanket harden when brought up to temp.  That is good to know.

Thank you kindly for all your input!
4 months ago
Thomas,

So does that mean high velocity erosion is not an issue??

I have gone from planning an 8" batch rocket,with barrel and traditional Wisner style cob bench, to an 8" masonry bell batch rocket with  masonry bell bench, to a 8" rocket with barrel and masonry/stone bell bench.  I have certainly learned a lot along the way.
I have some space constraints that make a full fledged masonry heater unrealistic.

Yes, we pay a price for durability and efficiency.  I have seen a lot of threads where builders are constantly tearing down their rockets to repair them because the inexpensive materials can't hold up.  I'm getting a bit too old for that, so I'm trying to devise a system that will last as long as I do.  LOL.

I've started a thread for my build.  I expect to be posting more information about it as I get started on it, hopefully this winter.

4 months ago
Yes, stacking it is what I meant to convey.

I'll take your word for it that 1" thick is enough.  Just hard for me to wrap my head around.  I always try to overbuild things.  

Regarding the ceramic fiber board.  I have just one concern regarding that, and it is related to concerns I had about the blanket.  I was watching a video Matt Walker put out regarding his smaller woodstove that uses the fiber board.  In the video, he showed the inside of the stove and it appeared to me that the velocity of the hot gasses were eroding the boards.  I can't be certain of this and I will make it a point to ask him directly, but that was the root cause of my concern, and hence the reason I wanted to use the 3000 degree F hot face refractory mix on the inside face of the riser.  
4 months ago
Thomas,

Since the diameter of your 10" pipe is 31.4 inches,  and you only need 4 feet, do you think it would be appropriate to do two concentric rings to cover the inside of your pipe with a material of these dimensions.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Fiber-Blanket-2300F-8lb-Thermal-High-Temp-Insulation-2-X24-X12-5-Kaowool/251990787538?hash=item3aabd245d2:g:XDwAAOSw8RZahw5T

I see prices for 10" duct pipe at about $40 for 5 foot lengths.  I'd still be in the same price range going this route, but a whole lot less fuss.  

What do you think about using the two inch vs one inch thick blanket?

4 months ago
Thomas,

"Almost everyone at donkeys forum is now using the ceramic blanket in a pipe riser. AKA) The five minute riser."

I am aware of the "Five Minute Riser" and was sorely tempted to go that route.  Has this been around long enough to gauge it's durability?  

You got me thinking about this so much I actually had to go out to the mailbox and retrieve the order for the ceramic fiber until I get t his question settled.  A fully ceramic fiber riser like I'm thinking will cost no less than $150 when you count up the cost for the fiber, refractory, rigidizer, and sonotube.  

I'll have to head over there and see what the word is on durability and what, if anything, needs to be done to improve on the idea.

4 months ago
I'm going to throw this out here just in case it may be of use to others.

My home has a well, and my issues with rotten egg smell was only with the hot water.  When we first moved into the house, there was no rotten egg smell.  Now, listen.  
I knew the 50 gallon electric water heater was very old and had probably never had the sacrificial anode changed.  For those who do not know, the sacrificial anode is a rod of soft metal, often magnesium, or aluminum, or zinc, that corrodes away ever so slowly in an ionic exchange with the water so as not to allow the metal in the steel tank itself to rust away.  (Those if you with science degrees may wish to elaborate on this process more thoroughly.)  So being pretty handy with plumbing, I got one, and changed it out.  In the process, I discovered that the original was completely gone.  Disintegrated.  Kaput!
Now, here's where it gets interesting.  Within 24 hours, we began noticing a rotten egg smell coming from the hot water taps.  Somehow, the new anode was causing the smell!
I removed the new rod, and put the cap back in from the old rod.  I drained and refilled the tank an within 24 hours, the smell was gone.

I did some research and learned that a by-product of the corrosion of the anode promotes the growth of natural and harmless bacteria in the well water, and a by-product of the bacteria is the sulphur smell.  Yuck.

Believe it or not I was able to solve this by installing an electronic anode.  It uses just a tiny bit of electricity to protect the steel tank and offers nothing to promote the growth of bacteria.

I've had mine for 7 years now and my old water heater (which the serviceman said was shot and needed to be replaced) is still going strong and soon to be fed with my Rocket Mass Heater/Solar Thermal Water Pre-Heater Hybrid.

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/Power-Anode-Rigid.html

This is where I ordered mine from.  No regrets whatsoever.

Hope this helps.

4 months ago
I have finally pulled the trigger on a purchase of 45 lbs of chopped, bulk ceramic fiber.  Rated at 2300 degrees F. for the riser I will cast from 8 inch and 12 inch sonotube.

My intention is to use some of the material and experiment with it in regards to mixing it with various binders.  There is the traditional Sodium Silicate route.  But I have also considered mixing it with castable refractory materials to see what sort of characteristics it takes on.  I am looking to build a heat riser that will perform very well, and be very durable as to last for many years to come.  My plan is to take the cast cylinder from the sonotube and coat it, inside and out with a 3000 degree F Masonry Hot Face material.  Hopefullly, filling in the pores and giving the cylinder added strengh, protection from hot flowing gasses, and a smoothness to help reduce laminar friction.  I'm not sure how much of the bulk fiber I will need to create the riser, as I am hoping the one 44 lb. bag will be sufficient.

I was hoping anyone in the Permies community who has had any experience experimenting with bulk ceramic fiber might share that experience here so we might all benefit as it doesn't look like purchasing commercially produced ceramic fiber heat risers is really an economical option.  
4 months ago
Clay. Yes, indeed.  Depending on the formulation of the cardboard stock, there can be a considerable amount of clay involved.  I have my doubts whether this can be used as an efficient fuel.  Do let us know what comes of it if you decide to try it out.
5 months ago