Glenn Van Agten

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since Feb 20, 2018
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Biography
IT consultant by day; budding farmer on the weekends.
A growie with a passion for efficiency. So I love rocket mass heaters, growing perennial foods, energizing soil, and healthy eating.
Designing and developing an 80 acre plot (40 acres of zone 5 forest) to yield an abundance to share.
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New Brunswick, Canada
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Recent posts by Glenn Van Agten

For the misting system, it worked great but only for a short for a time. The nozzles were clogging after just a few days due to my hard/ high calcium well water.  I will use again but only after getting a better water source. The plan is to collect rainwater and store it inside in a 1000L IBC. I don’t yet have gutters installed so this is a future project. It will also require buying another water pump to pressurize it.

The system that is in place now consists of:
House waterline at 50psi
Connected to a solenoid from AliExpress with garden house fittings on each end. I opted for a 120v AC powered version rather than 12v dc.
Water then flows out of the solenoid and then into a generic misting system from Amazon. 1/4” waterline and 10 low pressure brass misting nozzles.

The power to the solenoid is connected to a relay switch. Since its standard AV voltage there are Many many different options here, like Wi-Fi enabled switches, simple digital or mechanical timers, etc. anything that can control Christmas lights, etc …

In my case I went with using an ESP8266 microcontroller with a relay. Many options available online.

The program I wrote for the ESP8266 get temperature and humidity readings from my existing node that is measuring this for my climate battery fan.  It it does a little calculation and turns on the relay if needed. The hotter is is the more often is turns on.  I personally settled on a misting for about 10 seconds max, after that water starts building up on leaves. Instead of running longer it just mists more often.
I would be happy to share the Arduino code if anyone is interested.
1 year ago
This past winter went very well!

I started some cold hardy crops in late October (spinach, broccoli, swiss chard), and they survived the winter and started regrowing again late January. No supplemental heat, just the climate battery fan. I had a fair bit of mizuna lettuce in my "mixed salad greens" bed that were not killed off by frost either. I did a fall crop of carrots and just picked them whenever we wanted to eat them (finally eating the last ones in March), they all stayed alive and perfectly fresh.

The temperature of my rockbed never went below 4 degrees C, so even on the coldest nights I had "warm" air to heat with.

I have some potted strawberries inside that started flowering about 2-3 weeks ago. I currently also raising some silkie hens in there.

The biggest factor I've seen over winter is cloudy days vs sunny days. Sunny days have incredible heating ability, cloudy days are almost like nighttime.  I live on the East Coast which doesn't get quite as extreme cold, but it's cloudy alot more often too. The prairies get colder but that is offset by having more sunshine.
I am observing that sunny days yield an excess of heat, and that with enough thermal mass it can make a real difference on subsequent cold nights. For the climate battery - having enough airflow/heat transfer area is key. The more you have the faster you can capture the heat in the daytime and release it at night.

My 32x16 greenhouse has a single 12" duct fan rated at 1000cfm (actual will always be less), and I'm finding I should have doubled up. Even in March I have days where it can be freezing outside but I have to open a window vent to keep from overheating inside. 8 hours later the fan is running again to keep the temp above freezing. On a sunny morning, sometimes the fan is only off for less than 2 hours (running to heat till 8am, then kicking in at 10am again to cool).

All in all a climate battery with an temperature controlled fan is an amazing solution. So much temperature regulation for 0 effort and almost no running cost (my fan uses 200w), and no long term maintenance. If you plan on keeping a greenhouse for a decade or more it's worth the investment.

It all comes down to your goals; what you want to grow will determine how what temperature you will have to plan for.


1 year ago
Oh, I've also received the white spruce seedlings for the coniferous row and planted them in a nursery bed for now.  Those will be planted next year as that row extends into a hayfield which I want to get one more crop off of first. I figure baby'ing them for a year will give them a stronger start later as well.

The picture also shows a second nursery bed with echinacea started from seed, which will also move out to the windbreak once more mature.
2 years ago
I've started planting the deciduous row. Black locusts and basswood (in tree tubes to protect against deer). Each tree got at least one companion plant; comfrey, chives, bergamot, or gayfeather and some woodchips for cover.
In planting the trees I realized I really missed planning the shrub layer. With the trees on 13' spacing there is lots of room in the first 10 years for more diversity. I'm now planning to add a shrub between every tree, so that's another 70 shrubs to source and plant.  1/3 will be caragana so that between the caragana and the locust, every tree will be beside a nitrogen fixer. The other 2/3 will be what grows well here. Chokecherry, highbush cranberry, lilac, dwarf sour cherries.  Most of this will be planted in the fall as it's getting late in the season now. For now, I've started rooting cuttings, dividing suckers, and starting seeds.

2 years ago
Nancy, great to hear of your interest in haskap, I love haskap! I've been growing since 2013. I was young and planted 8 acres at once and learned lots of what not to do. I'm downsizing to a new 4 acre orchard closer to home, which is what this field is for.

I started planting into the field in 2019. Eventually there will be 4,000 plants. The rows are spaced 11'/3.3m apart, sufficient space to travel up any row. The aisles were reseeded with white clover for nitrogen and more bee food. I practice "mow and blow" mulching - the aisle grass is blown under the haskap.

Each row is a different variety to encourage pollination. I've been using varieties from the University of Saskatchewan exclusively (Indigo Gem, Aurora, Boreal Beast, Boreal Beauty, Boreal Blizzard). One of the key benefits of them is even ripening.  Haskap ripen from the outside first, they are only ripe when they are purple all the way through and no green remains. I sample daily to check.

My plants just started flowering on May 8 this year, which is average.

I'm attaching a picture of the orchard from last summer, it faces North so the windbreak would be the far end. What is not shown in the picture are the posts that will be installed to support bird netting - cedar waxwings will devour 100% of the crop here if not protected.

2 years ago
I'm planning to plant a windbreak around my haskap berry orchard. I'm posting to share my plans and welcome feedback before I get started.

Site:

Zone 4, clay soil,  former hayfield. Prevailing winds are from the Southwest
4 acres of haskap berries, planted in 40 rows in a North/South orientation.
The haskap are very winter hardy, I have no issues with late spring/early fall frosts bothering the crop.
The windbreak will be 900ft/270m in total
While officially Zone 4, plenty of "zone 4"plants have winter killed here already. Spirea, blueberry, thornless blackberry, black walnut, hybrid hazelnuts. I even lost my first batch of black locust.  So anything that is borderline zone 5 is not being considered.


Goals:

  • Reduce average windspeed, especially during the growing season
  • Avoid need for pollination services for haskap. Attract and support natural pollinators by provide lots of nectar and shelter.
  • Prioritize native species.
  • Be visually appealing (it' will occupy a significant portion of the view from my house)
  • Stack as many functions as possible



  • My Plan:

    Plant a two-row windbreak on the South and West sides, totaling 900ft/270m:
    1. An outer row of evergreen trees for maximum protection.
    I'm planning to use white spruce, planted at 13ft intervals. To provide earlier wind coverage, it will be interplanted with Douglas fir. These will be grown as Christmas trees and cut when the white spruce need the space.

    2. An Inner row of deciduous trees for diversity and pollinator food.
    I'm going with a "trio" approach for the primary:  1/3 black locust, 1/3 basswood (Tilia Americana), 1/3 black cherry. These will also be spaced at 13ft, and interplanted with as many beneficial perennials as I can muster.

    I started the black locust and basswood already, so they'll be on their second growing season when planted out. I plan to use tree tubes for the basswood, undecided on if the locust needs the deer protection.

    The understory companion plants are selected for things that flower. Everything will be started either from seed or division from existing plants. The inventory I have in mind includes:
    Caragana
    Comfrey
    Coneflower
    Hyssop officinalis
    Anise hyssop
    Liatris
    Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)
    Sedum for late season nectar/pollen
    Anise hyssop
    Hardy sage

    The exact makeup will dependent on just how quickly I can propagate them. I had great success starting Coneflower from seed this spring so that will be prevalent.

    There are some plants that I considereed, that are ultimately not on the my list for the moment.
    Autumn Olive and Russian olive. Non-native and possibly invasive.
    Black Walnut - I'm avoiding juglone near the haskap.
    Bur Oak - native here and possibly stunning; but I had difficulty sourcing acorns to start
    Red maple- -great tree, but I'm prioritizing flowers over catkins for nectar under the belief that flowers will attract more pollinators

    Hopefully I'm not being too dreamy and this plan is sound for my needs. I welcome feedback, and I'll be posting pictures as I go to share lessons learned.
    2 years ago
    I didn't realize how long it's been since I posted an update, there are a few updates to share.

    Based on how thing were warming up this spring, I decided to starting growing on March 15th this year. That's 10 weeks earlier than my last frost date outside. The week before that I ran the climate battery fan only on warm days to bank some heat. After March 15, I set it up to run at night to keep things from freezing. Here's what I have growing at the moment:

    - overwintered seedlings that will go outside later (kept inside to ensure no winterkill):
         - sedum
         - thyme
         -gayfeather
         -caragana
         -chives
         -6 black locust (an experiment, I have another 20 that I moved outside, so I'll see this fall what kind of advantage this 6 gained)
    - new seedlings:
          -2 50 cell trays of coneflower
         - 1 50 cell tray of hyssop
         - half a tray of gayfeather
         - brussel sprouts and kale for outdoor planting
    -vegetables in raised beds:
         -broccoli
         -tomatoes
         -bell peppers
         -melons

    In terms of building/construction, it's done yet but as my hobby continues, progress has been made.

    The ceiling, north wall, and half the side walls are now insulated, sealed, and covered.
    I have ready many tips saying NOT to use OSB inside a greenhouse (due to the humidity). I'm going to try it anyway; I could not find any other material that seemed as cost effective. All edges will be sealed with caulking and the surfaces sealed with white latex paint.
    While the walls needed a durable cover, the ceiling does not. So I capped the fiberglass insulation with 1" XPS styrofoam insulation. It was cheaper than wood AND adds another R5 to the insulation value (for a total of R32 in the ceiling). So far just one coat of paint, I'll add more after everything is taped and sealed.

    I setup an automated misting system for humidity/cooling. I used an patio misting system + a solenoid valve. It's activated by a relay controlled by a "mini computer" (ESP8266). I had some creative fun coming up with a good misting cycle. Intuitively I knew that I wanted to mist more often when it was hot or dry (low relative humidity) or both. That's when I learned about "Vapour Pressure Deficit", basically a calculated number that determines exactly how comfortable any RH/Temp combo is for plants.  The misting system and the climate battery fan controller both communicate wireless with temperature sensors I added, and report there statuses to an online dashboard. I could post a whole separate thread about this system so won't get into it further here other than share a screenshot.  I don't aspire to have "tech" in my greenhouse, but at least this is setup is all open source and self-maintainable. To date, I have discovered that generally my greenhouse is too dry instead of too humid.

    I built another raised bed and filled with a soil mix.  Mainly two year old compost from our horse manure pile + lime + clay top soil + peat moss. I also added 8 gallons of biochar that I made.

    Oh, and I started the task of covering the floor with woodchips. This winter showed me that a bare dirt floor is NOT going to work. I would walk accross the clean snow to the greenhouse, and once I stepped inside the greenhouse the snow would melt, with the floor and turn into mud, then I had to deal with mud everytime I came back into the house. I chose to go with woodchips because it drains well, it's free, and I don't have to worry about trying to keep it tidy. If I put in gravel, how do I clean up a spill of soil? Either soils ends staying in the gravel or gravel ends up getting added to the beds. Woodchips seemed more compatible. It's pleasure to walk on. On hot days I intentionally spray water on the chips to give a little boost to the humidity and cooling.



    2 years ago
    In the winter I keep my lawnmower battery inside on a battery tender. I have installed some 12v LED lights in key rooms with wiring down to where I store the battery. When the power goes out, I have convenient light for probably days, and the battery automatically gets recharged when the power comes back on.

    I purchased an adapter so I can run my propane Coleman stove using a BBQ propane take instead of the small disposable tanks.

    We have farm animals and are dependent on a well water so I do have a generator.  We run it for a bit then leave it off for a while. We fill a couple of extra buckets with water for toilet flushing while the power is out.
    3 years ago
    With outdoor growing in full-swing most further work on the greenhouse is on hold until the fall, but I thought I should post an update as to the current state. Since last time I have now:

    -  Built and planted3 out of the 4 raised grow beds. I ran a loop of poly hose along the bottom of each bed before filling with topsoil, so that someday I can run heated water through the beds. I'm going into my first growing season mainly as an experiment to understand how things will be behave with no particular goals for production. I have tomatoes, bell peppers, stevia, basil, rosemary, melons, and cucumber. I also kept a number of newly potted tree/shrub seedlings in among the peppers for convenience until the Peppers start to crowd them.

    - Cut out my ventilation window on the East wall. With the door open on the West end I get a good natural airflow through, though I do need to rely on a box fan in the vent to keep temps reasonable on days that are full sun but windless.

    -Purchased the fan that will run my climate battery, a 12" duct fan rated for 1000cfm, I'll be installing early in the fall.

    - Finished plumbing running water so I can irrigate.

    I'm really looking forward to insulating/finishing the walls and ceiling this fall so it will finally be complete.
    3 years ago
    Hi Mandie, I think that this style greenhouse (passive solar greenhouse, uMinn Deep Winter Greenhouse, Penn and Cord greenhouses, Ceres greenhouse, etc), are probably the strongest greenhouse of all. Only a geodesic dome might be superior if dealing with extreme wind.  The final shape will just come down to your personal goals. I don't think that absolute size makes any structure less able to deal with wind, it just comes down to how it's engineered. 20x40 is a very common size. From a construction standpoint, I compare my greenhouse more to detached garages than greenhouses,  it helps with making comparisons and assessing resistence to the elements.
    3 years ago