Mark S Heidbrink

Guys and gals,
    My RMH is a real water heater.  My lower heavy duty barrel also has the top removed. Resting on that is a regular 55gal barrel filled with water.  When the RMH burns the internal riser exhausts below the bottom of the upper water barrel.  The smaller bung at the top is loose to relieve any pressure. Facts:  this is a 6 inch cast refractory RMH that probably reaches 1500f-2000f BEFORE the riser reaches the bottom of the water barrel, and the heat differential between the riser temp and the water barrel surface supercharges the draft adding to the pump action of the RMH. All other RMH characteristics occur- low external temps, clear exhaust, good fuel efficiency etc. plus tapping into the 200f water on top to heat anything should be easy.  Also the burn chamber temp is 1500f-2000f  while the final exhaust temp as it leaves is never above 80f.(amazing btu recovery). This getup has survived a 7.2 earthquake.  I sent Erica a set of pics if you want to see...hope she got them. May the revolution continue! Mark H.

Listen to Peter!  I did.  I am now casting my second dragon heater style core (6 inch) with factory made refractory cement.  Add water and then cast.  The cylindrical riser is also cast from refractory cement.  Absolutely no metal that will certainly fail when internal temps reach 1000-2000 Fahrenheit.  The cost of this method was comparable to refractory brick (not red fire brick!). Further, on top of my 55 gallon containment barrel I have placed another water filled 55 gallon barrel to absorb the btus.  As the high temp exhaust (2000 Fahrenheit?) from the riser crashes into the bottom of the upper water barrel it cools dramatically and consequently shoots downward to exit out the side of the lower barrel (a normal design).  This is in effect a powerful heat pump.  How powerful?  Strong enough to push the exhaust 35 feet horizontally through a heat sink, then 10 feet diagonally to connect with 25 feet of vertical!  Crazy but if you listen to Peter it can be done.