Travis Campbell

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since Feb 25, 2019
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Recent posts by Travis Campbell

I live on a property in north Idaho that used to be a cattle pasture. It is covered in a large amount of nonnative dog roses, which some say are "invasive" in our area, but I really like them for many reasons.  

Something interesting I have noticed about them that I have not seen on any other shrub in our area is a burst of new growth in the fall before our cold winter season sets it. Now to some this might not seem that interesting, but to me it is quite so.

Our climate here could be considered a cold mediterranean climate. We have cold wet winters and dry summers. All of the other shrub species in our area have a burst of growth in mid to late spring while temperatures are rising and humidity is still quite high. By mid summer, however, their growth comes to a halt with the onset of hot dry weather and they pretty much are done growing until the following spring.

However, after our dry summers we have a short period of time in the fall where the humidity rises with the first fall rains and before the real cold of winter has set in. This period is a short "second growing season" for our area and a lot of cool season plants like grasses and forbs will put on a little bit of green before winter fully sets in. I have not noticed any other woody plants taking advantage of this second growing season except for these introduced roses.

They start growing new stems, thorns and leaves that have the soft and flexible texture of new growth like they do in the spring. These tender tips are a favorite of our sheep during this time when there is not a lot of other fresh new growth. I also believe the deer in our area relish these as well and I have noticed increased populations of them in these "invaded" rose habitats. In fact during hunting season I specifically seek these areas out in order to increase my chances at harvesting a large buck.

Anyways I am a pretty huge plant nerd and for some reason this seems really cool to me so I thought I would share it with other potential plant nerds who might find it interesting as well.
8 months ago
This is how we rotate our sheep. Cattle panels with wooden posts, "feet" and braces screwed together so that they can stand upright. The panels are latched to each other with heavy duty caribeaners. We generally move them twice a day this time of year and are feeding some hay as our winter stockpile growth was somewhat sparse.

We actually originally designed these for geese, but decided to try them with sheep as well and so far so good. If using them for geese I'd recommend adding chicken wire to the bottom half of the panels as geese can sometimes squeeze through the square holes in the panels, but with sheep it wouldn't be necessary.

1 year ago
This is how we rotate our sheep. Cattle panels with wooden posts, "feet" and braces screwed together so that they can stand upright. The panels are latched to each other with heavy duty caribeaners. We generally move them twice a day this time of year and are feeding some hay as our winter stockpile growth was somewhat sparse.

We actually originally designed these for geese, but decided to try them with sheep as well and so far so good. If using them for geese I'd recommend adding chicken wire to the bottom half of the panels as geese can sometimes squeeze through the square holes in the panels, but with sheep it wouldn't be necessary.
1 year ago
Here are our most recent designs being used for our new sheep.
1 year ago

Devon Olsen wrote:How is the resistance when you drag it? Would it possibly be easier to move if you oriented the skids parallel? Less stable perhaps but stable enough if you still had skids a few feet apart the bracing may be enough to keep it upright in a stiff wind.

Maybe I'm overthinking a simple and elegant solution


Also I noticed that my geese have no trouble going through a cattle panel, do you do anything to reduce opening size or just don't have any issues?



I generally don't drag them I pick them up just because it is easier.  I actually built a newer design with my most recent panels I made. These new ones only have one foot (the board of wood touching the ground) in the center of the panel and the foot is about half as long as the ones in the picture. This makes it much lighter and easier to move and is still plenty stable enough to stand upright on it's own. It's still a little awkward to pick up, but as long as you don't have to move them very far then it is sufficiently quick, simple and painless.

I also attached chicken wire to the bottom 3rd of the panel because like you said some geese are small enough to fit through the holes, but the chicken wire fixed that.

Lastly, even though I like my current designs I still think they might be able to be improved upon so that they are even lighter and easier to move. I've been thinking about possibly using metal pipe or some similar material for the feet and the upright post. This is something I am planning on experimenting with in the future though. So if I do try this design out I will update on how it goes as well. Hopefully my answer was helpful.
1 year ago
I just started tapping 2 days ago and they were immediately dripping. I probably could have started a week or 2 earlier.
2 years ago
I live in an area that has practically no native maple trees big enough to tap. However, in overgrown areas around local towns and parks one can often find many non-native norway maples that have volunteered from seeds coming off trees in people's yards. These are very hardy trees and can grow in surprisingly harsh climates. They are seen as "invasive" by many people, but to me they are a potential source of delicious maple syrup.

I do have my own property, but no maple trees growing on it and if I wanted to plant some it would probably be at least 20 years before I would be able to tap them. Therefore my strategy for homemade maple syrup is guerrilla maple tapping.

In my town we have a river running through it that is publicly accessible for fishing with many pullouts on the side of the road to park. All I had to do was find a spot along the river with a pullout and some maples and bingo easy access. This road is also between my home and town where I work so it is easy to pull off and check the buckets every day or 2 and collect the sap while I'm commuting or running errands in town.

I have several spots now and I try to set up the buckets in a way so that it is not obvious to people driving by or parked at the pullouts. Maybe a random fisherman might notice one every now and then, but they are on somewhat of a steep bank so I don't think anyone would put in the effort to bother them. In some areas they are also somewhat camoflauged by brush so I think that may help people from messing with them, but generally I'm not too worried. Also during maple tapping season it is still pretty chilly out so I just find it hard to believe people are going to mess with them.

Another thing I think about is the legality of it, but I've never heard of the idea before and it is technically on public land since it is public access to fisherman so I don't really see why it would be an issue. But I just thought I'd share my experience with this since it could be something cool someone could do who still lives in a city or town, but wants to forage for some of thier food and develop the skill to make maple syrup!
2 years ago
Has anyone looked into CS Joseph's version of this personality test? I find his version of mbti pretty fascinating but he is also fairly controversial within the mbti community at large.  His style can be a little quirky, maybe even off-putting, but I think his version of it checks out in real life when put to the test. I got an INFP on his version and I can definitely relate to it's description.

Here is his website: https://csjoseph.life/

He also has a lot of content on his YouTube channel.
2 years ago
Today I wrote a new blog post about my preferred method for starting new food plots for wildlife on my property. Basically I use silage tarps and the process of occultation on an area with perennial grasses to prepare a spot to plant a new food plot by completely removing the competing vegetation. This is both organic and no till and in my opinion is the best way to start a new food plot.

If you're interested in reading my blog here's a link:
https://hunterseden.blogspot.com

And here is my full post:

"Occultation: The Ideal Small Food Plot Establishment Method

One of my biggest challenges since purchasing my property has been to find the best way to establish a food plot. Because my property was once part of an active cattle operation the majority of it is covered in perennial cool season pasture grasses such as Meadow foxtail, Smooth brome and Kentucky bluegrass. This means the first step to transition a new plot into productive forage for wild game is to terminate these grasses and other weeds.

The problem with these grasses, however, is that they are extremely resilient and hard to kill. Once they take hold they spread through rhizomes and will eventually create a dense impenetrable sod that prevents other plants from establishing. They also are very tolerant of close grazing and mowing. Even if you continuously scalped them with a weedeater every few weeks during the growing season some would still hold on and if you stopped they would slowly but eventually make a comeback and spread back to their original sod bound state. I know this from personal experience. So this ultimately is not a viable option to terminate them.

Some other methods I've tried have been to use a shovel to flip the sod upside down to smother it. This was also unsuccessful because the roots would resprout even after being turned upside down and eventually would regrow through the upturned sod. This, like scalping with a weedeater, was a ton of backbreaking work, especially over a large area.  So, in order to terminate the sod I had to come up with something different.

One option that would probably work, but that I wanted to avoid due to potential health hazards was the use of herbicides like glyphosate. While many people use chemicals like this to terminate pasture this was not a viable option for me because I am not comfortable using these potentially dangerous synthetic compounds in an area where my family, livestock and wild game would be frequenting. So at least for me my ideal sod termination method would have to be organic.

Another potential option would be to use a rototiller or similar equipment to turn over the soil and terminate the grass. However, this would probably take multiple applications. Ultimately I would like to avoid tillage as much as I can to protect the soil health. My ideal method would preferably be no-till.

After researching my potential options over the years I eventually came across the concept of Occultation.  While searching online for methods to terminate grass I came across some people who were using black plastic tarps to kill lawn grass to establish gardens in their yards. This method used the opaqueness of the tarp to smother and starve the grass of sunlight, killing it over several months. This method was both organic and no-till and also was relatively easy and didn't take a lot of backbreaking work. The one major downside being that it takes a long time to take effect. For me, this was totally fine, as I had plenty of time to establish my food plots.

The more I thought about this process the more I realized how genius it was. In nature this is a very common way grasses die. As a meadow dominated by grasses gets invaded by shrubs and trees, they eventually block out the sun from reaching the grass and over time as the trees grow and their canopy covers more area the grasses cease the ability to photosynthesize. They eventually die out completely. This process in nature takes much longer than using a plastic tarp but the principle is the same. This is called occultation, which means to obscure from view.

When we occultate a pasture from the sun with a plastic tarp we are preventing the grass from photosynthesizing. Over time the grass will use up all of its roots' energy reserves trying to send up new shoots to intercept the sun's rays. This process can also be observed when something such as a stack of firewood is left on a lawn for too long and eventually you create a bare spot because the grass has been starved of sunlight.

In my opinion, this is the best way to establish a small food plot. It is both organic and no-till and is relatively easy and affordable.

In order to occultate an area of grass that you want to turn into a food plot you will have to first acquire an opaque plastic tarp. The most common type of tarp used for this purpose is a black silage tarp which can usually be purchased at farm supply stores. You can also sometimes find used ones for much cheaper or free from farmers who use them to make silage or to preserve haystacks.

Another option that may work is used vinyl billboard signs. These can be found online from companies trying to recycle them. For the establishment of a food plot you will likely want to try to find the largest ones you can get your hands on. The one I have been using for the past couple of years was bought new and is 40'x100'. I have moved this to a new spot every year to expand the area of my food plot. You can do this every year until your plot reaches it's desired size or you can acquire multiple tarps to fit the size of your plot.

Once you have your tarp you will generally want to put it down as soon as grass growth starts in the spring. For me this is usually early March. Also you will want to prepare the plot the year before by mowing the grass short and keeping it short for a full growing season to weaken the roots. This will allow the tarp to kill the grass quicker the following year. You also want to make sure there are no cut stalks of stiffer weeds that could poke through your tarp and create a hole. If you do get holes, which you probably will after several years of use, you can always patch them up with duct tape.

Once your plot is prepared and you're ready to put down your tarp you can unfold it and place it on the plot. Then once it is stretched out smooth you will need to weigh down the edges with stones or other objects to prevent wind from getting underneath and blowing it around. It's a good idea to check it every few weeks or so to make sure the wind hasn't moved it.

After securing the tarp onto your future food plot in the early spring you will want to leave it there for at least 4-5 months to get a complete kill of the sod. If you prepared the area properly the previous growing season by keeping the grass short, then you will probably be able to kill the grass quicker. I would not do any less than 4 months, with 5+ months being ideal for a complete kill.

Once your tarp has been sitting on your plot for the recommended amount of time then you can remove it and you will be left with the dead sod. At this point you are left with a blank slate and can plant a food plot using whatever method you prefer.

For me, if I'm planting a perennial food plot, I will frost seed over the winter or wait until early the following spring to broadcast my perennial mix. Then, I will use my chain harrow to rake in the seed to get good seed-to-soil contact. If waiting until spring to plant, you may get some winter annual weeds coming up in your plot, but harrowing can help remove them. Also while your tarp is down you will want to make sure that no grass is producing seed anywhere near the tarped plot back to a minimum of 15' away. If you don't do this then the grass seed can blow in and germinate once the tarp is removed and could be very difficult to control without starting over.

That is the rundown of my preferred method for establishing a new food plot on virgin ground that is dominated by grasses and other weeds. This method was developed after years of research and personal experience and I think it is the best one for smaller food plots where you want to protect the soil from chemicals and tillage.

For larger plots that you don't have years to create or the money to purchase all the necessary tarps then I believe tillage would probably be the next best option. While not ideal, because it can destroy the soil structure, this will recover over time as long as you are not repeating the tillage. A one-time till is a relatively safe option for a food plot establishment, in my opinion, although heavy weed pressure will usually be something that you will have to deal with.

So there it is. Hopefully this information can help you establish your new food plot and you can create some great forage to feed the wild game on the property you're managing along with help you improve your soil health."
I'm interested in using cicer milkvetch as part of a pasture mix. From what I've been reading it's main period of use is from late spring into late fall meaning that in theory it should stay relatively green and usable as a forage late into the fall. In my area we have wet springs but it usually stops raining during the summer and gets quite dry and then the rain usually starts back up in early fall. Would cicer milkvetch be able to grow enough with the fall rains to provide forage through the rest of the fall until winter hits? Does anyone else grow this legume and what has your experience been with it's growth cycle and how does it respond to grazing/mowing at different times of the year? Also just looking for anyone's general experience with this forage so I'll take any info I can get on this forage. Thanks!
3 years ago