Abraham Palma

The typography they teach in my son's class is still the same that I learned in school, we call it 'letra de escuela', or 'school calligraphy' (see below).
Also, some of his books use a font type that looks very similar, called 'edelfontmed regular'. It can be installed here: https://www.en.netfontes.com.br/view/edelfontmed_regular/
His calligraphy is something between the two types.


I used to write in a fast palatino type, readable but ugly, and now I prefer to use bastard italics (see here: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letra_bastarda_(caligraf%C3%ADa)
in cursive style, also readable and less ugly.

I think... it depends.
I'm going to discuss it all from theory, not practiced myself, so there's that.

The point about making any plant drought resistant is allowing it to get water when it is not available. Otherwise you don't need to make it tolerant when the plant is already resistant to drought.
So, where's water in drought climates? Usually there's some water below the roots, dipping slowly onto the water table. There's the water table. There's the occasional irrigation by the gardener. There's some humidity captured by the organic matter in the soil. There can be mist and dew that some plants are able to catch.
And water is lost through evapotranspiration: The heated ground, the more thirsty plants taking more water for standing against the scorching sun or just using water for the photosynthesis process.

Trees are good at throwing their roots deep into the ground and reaching the more humid layers and the water table. Therefore, the faster they extend their roots below, the more resistant they get to drought. This is true even for native plants already adapted to drought.
One reliable method is to deep irrigate the trees during the first year. Deep irrigation is watering in large quantities when the soil is dry and the plant is active. That can be 30 litres of water per plant every 3 weeks during the dry season. It is helpful to irrigate directly at the depth of the roots and not watering the surface where water is lost very fast.

But maybe the land has not enough dirt for plants to develop deep roots, or maybe you don't have enough water for irrigating all the plants. In these cases, adding extra organic matter and mulching can increase the humidity in the upper layers, and while it will slow down the production of deep roots, it may save the life of the sapplings. Letting the plant lose some leaves thus reducing the water needs, also helps, but don't prune them during drought. If you are blessed with weeds that capture mist and dew, you can use them as an extra water source for your other plants.

Ok, I have finished the installation.
Here you have the pathways mulched.

Now I have to wait until summer for next step.

I think the only olive oil I've ever seen here is  labelled "extra virgin" or "virgin." It's hard to tell how these fit into your categories -- even though it's lovely stuff, I don't know how carefully labels and categories are regulated here, so shenanigans are possible.

Virgin is the normal one. They come with an acidity marked in grades.

Fraud is always a posibility, but trust your senses. If it tastes like olives, it's good. If the flavour is mild, then that's good for cooking, but not for dressing.
In the bottle they should mark the acidity. An extra virgin is always below 0.8º. Anything over 2º is not edible.

Before looking into the alternatives, I'd make sure to be using the right type of olive oil.

Extra Virgin should only be consumed raw in bread or in salads. Never to be heated.
Normal olive oil (also known as virgin olive oil) high acidity can be used for cooking, although it has a strong flavour, so we use it for stews, potages and the like. It may be used for frying two or three times.
Normal olive oil low acidity (very little fatty acids) has a mild flavour, more suitable for frying, mayonnaise, and also can be used in oil candles with no smell, homemade soap, etc. It can be reused.
Pomace olive oil is the lowest quality, almost no flavour and it has been heated in the process of making it, so it should not be reused. It's cheap for a reason (probably you cannot find it outside the producing country).
Unfiltered extra virgen is a delicacy, a strong fruit flavour only to be tasted with a good loaf of bread; sadly it spoils in three months.

I don't think it's so simple.
There are many levels and types of dryness. If we are talking about something like Sahara or Sonora desert, then yes, all the plants there have adapted to grow with large superficial roots, and to store as much water as possible in leaves, trunks or bulbs. In these conditions, plants have to be planted far from each other.

For less draught barren lands, plants can survive being closer to each other as long as they are adapted to the amount and frequency of the rainwater pattern. However, there are not many crops that we like to eat that are so adapted to draught. So we end up growing 'thirsty' plants, meaning that they want more water than what they get from the rains. One way to grow thirstier plants is giving them more space, the extra space is meant as water catchment areas that need to be clean of plants and maybe soft tilled.
But what happens when you have five months of draught, like it is the case here in my city? If your plant is not adapted to a draught so severe, it doesn't matter if you can catch more rainwater, the soil will probably be as dry as a stone in a couple of months and your plants will die. There's the option of capturing rainwater in barrels and irrigate as needed, maybe useful for a small lot.

Another option is using microclimate techniques as a way to reduce the total lenght of draught. With good shade, better soil, some extra area for water catchment, protection from dry winds, sfsf, maybe instead of five months of draught, the soil can behave like a three months of draught soil. There are many more crops that I can grow adapted to a three months draught, but not the commercial tomatoes and peppers every market gardener likes to grow here.
So it has to be a combination of protected soil for reducing the draught conditions, and better adapted plants. The extra spacing would be required for thirstier plants only.

More edible plants:
Atriplex halimus
Asphodeline lutea
Calamintha nepeta

This is the planting of phase 1.
They don't need to be irrigated until Summer. Then, only for the first year, they will need 25 litres each plant every three or four weeks. Since I don't know how much water I will have in Summer, I cannot guarantee the establishment of so many plants, so if I want to add more plants (and really the garden will benefit of having more plants) they'll have to wait until next Autumn.

In the pictures I show how I placed the pots, then dug a big wide hole for watering each plant, and planted them without touching the root ball.
The senecio plants were damaged in the process, I hope they recover fast.

I've also added images of the tour so far.

That's my first planting.
Salvia greggi. (flowers)
Pistacia lentiscus. (for hedges)
Senecio macroglossus. (cover)
Pyracantha coccinea "red column". (nice in winter)
Lavandula dentata. (scented, flowers in winter)
Spartium junceum (Passage markers)

Work continues.

Here I've finished broadforking and on the way of forming the pathways and beds.
Since the soil is quite heavy, I am adding some fine arlite (expanded clay), hopefully it will loosen the soil a little.
Investment 40€ in 5 bags of 70 litres each one.