Jordan Beaupré

I've found out it is actually old guardrail posts from the roads that I got. From searching on internet, these would be like treated wood with CCA. Seems ok at quick glance (not great, will avoid near garden). I've also got some left not used. I am wondering what I'm gonna do with that.

How to know if they are toxic? From what I've read, they are not all made with creosote

thomas rubino wrote:Firebrick is not all created equal.
I noticed these are  rated to 2200F
They are a vermiculite product.
Last but not least, they are splits not full bricks.

Check here https://refwest.com/browseproducts/CLIPPER-DP-9--64mm-Straight.HTML
Or here https://www.mutualmaterials.com/where-to-buy/
I pay $2.40 per brick for 2500F full-size bricks at Mutual Materials

I thought RMH needed 2900F rated bricks?

Anyway, if anyone knows where to find properly rated bricks in Canada, please reply here. I sure haven't made extensive research but I can say they are not easy to find around here.

Andrés Bernal wrote:

Jordan Beaupré wrote:I would like to know how much does the burn chamber weight approximately?

Why aren't there fire ratings on the bricks material and ceramic board? What should it be? In my case, it would be needed to make sure I am able to get the proper material and I think there should be a note about it, because a lot of business seems to sell cheap material that won't last.

Hi Jordan! Ill find out this info with the experts and include it in. Thanks for pointing out!

Thank you.

I was also wondering, I've seen notches being added at different places in the burn chamber to get better burn. Is that something worth trying to add to this burn chamber?

I would like to know how much does the burn chamber weight approximately?

Why aren't there fire ratings on the bricks material and ceramic board? What should it be? In my case, it would be needed to make sure I am able to get the proper material and I think there should be a note about it, because a lot of business seems to sell cheap material that won't last.

I'm gonna go for lotus, seems like the perfect choice on drain field. I suppose lotus seeds isn't something I will find in all feed store?

I'm currently looking for winter rye. It seems like it is called fall rye in french. How can I know it is the right one? If it is for green fertilizer, does it mean it is the right one?

Also, I suppose I can start seed in fall as soon as the temperature is cold? Do I need to wait for a freeze?

Phil Stevens wrote:Lotus might be a good choice if your summers aren't dry. It's a perennial legume but without the deep rooting habit of alfalfa.

Isn't lotus a water plant?

I was also wondering, I believe the Master Garden course is advising for soil testing (a complete one)? Is it a necessity when using a living mulch technique (for the garden)? Would you recommend it?

It is quite unlikely that the drain field would clog (at least mine). The wholes are under the pipes and there is geotextil above, then rocks.Although, thinking about it, there might not even be soil there, only rocks... have to take a look. Maybe I should have asked for soil above it?

Great advices!

As for the rocks, I tried to remove some before, but it doesn't seem to do anything since there's other big rocks under... I suppose it would help to let some of the living mulch there to make more soil above at the beginning.