David Pug

Dang, I go offline for a while, and miss an epic show.  

Ben Zumeta wrote:I am on the side of less censoring, though I respect the proprietors’ right to do what they’d like. On the other hand, I am amazed at what inherently political statements get through (antivax etc) when my statements against what i see as unethical trophy hunting of ecologically necessary predators, or the incautious use of fire in a tinderbox time of year get censored. Oh well, it’s not up to me and I know that by now. It does reduce my desire to participate in the forums, but I know that if it were a free for all I wouldn’t be here at all!

I didn't see whatever the original thread was, but I agree with Ben here, and I will add my 2 cents.  

With the exception of personal attacks and direct insults and language, or illegal topics (which should be removed), it is not the responsibility of any author, anywhere ever, to be sure their comments wont be "taken" the "wrong" way, whatever way that is.  Censoring should be an absolute last resort (only to pull inappropriate language/insults), but as for sensitive topics... they just are what they are.  Can't shelter the world from it. Leave it be.

I like the idea of using Earthbag as the main wall in my Greenhouse design, not only for the ability to use existing materials, but also the benefit of a thermal battery wall.  

BUT... what precautions must I take to protect from moisture?

Check out my drawing here.  The red line indicates ground level, my floor will be about 16 inches below grade, and the earthbag wall would be 8 ft high from the lowest point, with its base against the grade there.  

Questions this raised:

Do I need to wrap the bottom couple feet here in poly film? (the base, first few rows of earthbags)?

Do I need poly all the way up that inner wall, complete vapor barrier between humid greenhouse, and earthbag wall?

Another point of interest here is my choice of insulation.  I'm using straw bales against the earthbag wall. And in fact, it has it's own set of challenges of moisture protection which I am still working on.

Glenn Herbert wrote:The bond beam method in the article looks like it would work to make a strong section of wall, but it will do nothing to keep the whole wall from tipping over unless anchored to something else that is strong and rigid. The roof may support the wall top, but what supports the roof?

Agreed. In my case, the end walls are lumber, so although I'm not using earthbag endwalls (which would be excellent for perpendicular support), I should still have sufficient structure to hold everything up, and the roof on.  It's a 16 ft span though, and I was told a buttress is best every 10 feet, but if I'm using barbed wire AND rebar, I'm confident it will be fine, maybe even overkill. (err on side of caution as @John said.)

I'm doing a 16ft long exterior load bearing wall 8 ft high, no end walls, no interior, no buttress.  I am NOT qualified to answer your question, as I am myself in experimental territory.  But I found this article about Bond Beam alternatives to give me the idea that if I re-enforce the wall from the base to the top with rebar, AND I tie it all together tight with a bond beam like this, it should be sufficient. As I understand it, a beam at the bottom connected to a beam at the top, tightened and making a sandwich, makes this super strong in terms of lateral or sheer force (pushing sideways to topple or fold it). In my case, it's not a stand-alone wall, it is supported by roof trusses, exactly as show in the pics in this article.

http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/articles/bondbeam.htm

I too would love to hear fro m others with more experience.  One thing I've not determined, aside from whether this scenario is legit, is what width of earthbag is needed?  14"?  16"?

Kani Seifert wrote:
The citrus and avocados are exceeding expectations. One of the avocados is blooming. I don't know if we'll get fruit, but I'm amazed at their growth. We have oranges and lemons on some of the trees already. We're so happy with their vigor.

Avocado looks like it is lacking Magnesium or iron, which might also be due to too high a Ph (just check that it's below 6.5). Same with all citrus, they can't uptake nutrients above 6.5 Ph, but those appear to look great.

Anyway, I am curious how you join the back roof with the front glazing. What sort of roof ridge is there that works for joining these 2 different materials, and confidently sealing that seam?  Got any pics?