Ulla Leppa

Advice on goat de-worming: Do it like you do it for yourself.

There is not a single animal on this planet that wouldn't have parasites. Every 6 year old child can "easily" remove a bucket full of parasites. We have flukes, worms, amebas etc. nasty creature inside of our brains, organs, tissues, guts etc. And so do goats.

Like with humans, you should begin by balancing their internal elemental status. Obviously aluminium and other highly inflammatory "alzheimer's/autism" elements go first. Not least because pathogens(Lyme for example) culture in aluminium. Then the protective elements like iodine etc. go in and salmonellas etc. intracellular(tiny) pathogens die. While the next phase is heavy metal removal, that sulfur loading does support also pathogen removal. Not least because pathogens do well with metals, and that is why these opportunitists are in us in the first place, compromisation creates room for them. Only after the basics are done, removal of root causes and loadings of essentials, we are ready for the civil war, internal warfare.

And when we begin that warfare, ask yourself which of the following is a winning strategy: A. pissing of your enemy (herbs/phytochemicals etc.), B. poisoning yourself (pharmaceuticals), or C. killing your parasites(modern detoxchemicals)? Yes, it is C. and as each and every parasite holds tons of other smaller pathogens as well as heavy metals etc., we do not just kill them and poison ourselves with the corpses, we neutralize the enemy inside out, cleanse them while kill them. This is what your detoxicologists tells you to do and does to his own goats as well. At least my detoxicologists who has plenty of goats. My goats consume the same detox chemicals every day and run the same protocols than me, my husband and children. Our living environment and intracellular realities are the same, the deworming tactics just differ a bit. Luckily goat eat everything so thei are relatively easy to deworm.

The point is that while your goats can spend an entire week in hemp, tobacco etc. fields, that does not make them parasite free or remove muchof the worms(hemp is better as THC paralyzes some worms). Milk tastes a bit funny and also the goats might act a bit funny(this actually happened once in my friends farm), but if you really want to have well behaving and healthy goats, you naturalize them biologically, do the same things your detoxicologists do to autistic children.

And yes, always sterilize the milk. Not heat/destroy, but sterilize. By doing that,you do not keep reinfecting yourself day after day.

Thanks Fox!

No permafrost. We have max +30°C and 24/7 light in summer and -45°C and 24/7 night in winter. So hostile but not that hostile

The thing with single flex pipes is that they do not have bigger ones in here, only the useless sizes..

Bell structure/hypocaust concept (no flues) would be more optimal for draft, clean up etc. but it needs to be way higher structurally and we do not know what it demands from the fireplace/whole system and flex pipes offer other structural possibilities. But as it is a bunker, the surface area of the floor ain’t too big so hypocaust type of whole floor ”bell” is possible. Insulation ain’t an issue in earthbag turf houses.

If we would have an extra million, it would be hypocaust type of thing made from shungit and granite like the oligarchs have..

Before making RMH for our new bunker building, we would like to test the concept in our old log house, build our first one. As here in Arctic Circle next to Russian border  there are no Home Depots around, ceramic fibre boards, chimney pipes etc. way too expensive transport, we want to make it from basic stuff with basic tools. So our first thought was 8" J with 5 minute riser +bell bench +our 100 years old tile chimney.

Anyone done bigger/8" five minute risers? Meaning 10" pipe +25mm Insulfrax LTX for 8" system? (Insulfrax is our only option here) How did it work? Did you/does it change any other dimensions? Is it worth to make riser a bit taller?

For our old log house there is simply no other way than to make RMH on wooden floor so 5 minute riser will save significant amount of weight compared to tiles and has better shape for vortex (+it is way cheaper and faster to make).

Anyone done simple "floor channels" (Batch rocket/Peter van den Berg) for J? Made the back corner of burn tunnel more round? Any other optimization tips? Thanks!

Why not Have visited in couple of those places in Baltic but those were quite structures. We are definitely using polished granite slaps in our bunker although the reason is their electric properties (folks had granite batteries in pyramids of Giza before the pharaoh era for example) but why not trying those in this sense as well. So thanks for the tip! We have few high quality granite mines around an hour away so for us it is convenient to test that material

Similar system seems to work in greenhouses: https://permies.com/t/171410/ground-RMH-greenhouse I mean floor doesn’t have to be hot, not freezing would be nice Our bunker is well insulated, google ”turf houses”, +1 meter of snow.

The thing that made us interested about this topic, ”rocket floor heating”, is that it saves space. All you can see is the barrel and fire hole. In a small bunker that is highly welcome.

Perhaps the biggest concern for us is this flexible pipe. As you mentioned, the biggest disadvantage is cleaning. After manifold and T-junction, it is just the pipe.. Let us say we have 4 meters horizontal and 4 meters vertical, all together 8 meters. That is not easy to clean although not impossible either with right tools, but perhaps it is necessarily to take it out every now and then if the J isn’t well designed and doesn’t burn everything.

When it comes to the pros, flexible pipe is flexible, one can make ”S” curves etc. with it to the floor or create shapes/corners that would otherwise be difficult. I’m not aware of anyone who would have used this sort of pipe in RMH so maybe we got to be the first ones to try

Hi!

I’m new here (my first post) and keen to hear opinions about ”rocket floor heating”. We live in real north, above Arctic Circle, where we have tons of snow, -45°C(-50°F) and endless nights during winter. Now we are about to build a small bunker -style place to where we were planning to design rocket floor heating, meaning all one can see is the 55 gallon barrel. Any tips?

Here we have ”streamlining pipe”, flexible 6,5 inch ”double wall” pipe that can tolerate +600°C. Have anyone ever used this sort of thing? Attached it to the manifold(after T-junction)? In a way the concept is similar to ”climate battery” which we have in our greenhouse but obviously the length/magnitude is way smaller and there is small rising angle in this one. We do not want to build the standard rocket mass heater cause there is no room for it and the soil/floor is 90% grey clay, meaning the mass is there already. Sorry about my English