Lissa Malloy

We've converted our bulkhead to become a root cellar. Even in 90* days before insulating it stayed below 74, so I'm sure now that it's insulated it'll be closer to 65 during the days, until the cold sets in around mid-Oct. This is my first root cellar.

Which brings me to my question,
How cold do I have to wait for it before shifting in the carrots?

My grandfather stored only potatoes (kennebec) in the unfinished cellar of the house I grew up in. He started storing them right about now (same latitude etc, 1980's). The potatoes made it to february/March just fine (when we would run out). He didn't keep carrots in the root cellar, so the thought of losing carrots is worrying me.

If I store things as I've been taught (burlap, sawdust etc). Can the carrots manage in the 60's until the cold settles in around the end of October? Or are they going to definitely rot?

If I can't start storage, how long can I leave the carrots in the ground beyond their 'ready' point? (What signs that they need to get yanked NOW?) In case it matters - I have "bolero" planted.

I really don't want to can all those carrots if I can help it. Next year I'll plant my second and third succession later so they aren't 'ready' until mid September.

Thanks in advance for advice!

I was reading about landracing, which is a very sensible and easy thing to do. I plan on leaning into it going forward!!!
As far as germination- I thought I might end up with the opposite because I don't know much yet! Good to know odds may favor my fanciful flailing around!!

Nancy Reading wrote:Hi Lissa, I missed your earlier post (not that I have much to add). I'm not sure there is a sure fire way of knowing if a seed is viable except for sowing it! Try and get mature seeds that are formed well, make sure they are dry and then store dry and cool (generally speaking).
I also have a problem with bean and pea seed maturity - I have a short cool summer here and the timing needs to be spot on for most seeds to have a chance of a good crop. I'm trying landracing to improve my success here - hopefully this will enable my crops to adapt to my location.
The other good thing I've found about seed saving (apart from having loads to give away and swap!) is that the seeds tend to have better germination than bought seed.

I'll add that to my christmas list, and if that falls through we'll get it with the first quarter bonus.

Meantime- I am fearing that the growing season on the Seychelle's greenbeans is too long for this area. Which is a pity. I got them 'in' about two weeks late, but when I let the first 6+ pods on each plant mature, and they still didn't have time before the frost... ugh. Either that two weeks really made that much difference, or these reeeaaalllly want warmer than zone 5b and I'll have to find some green bean I love to eat as much as these... or just continue coughing up the $$ for the seed.

On the plus side, I FINALLY got brussels off my plants. After five years of trying, I have the timing down! The timing being- I need to start the plants in the greenhouse in the beginning of February, and into the ground w/cold frame end of April.

I'm going to admit, I haven't read most responses...

to OP: Use gamblin (gamsol, gamvar, galklyd) products. They're safer for you, low scent, and will age better than any other 'thinner' or 'medium' you can possibly buy or make to use.
       
Linseed oil is a no no. 1, it won't clean your brushes. 2. it will yellow the painting.

To R-
 You're referring to one of two methods of oil painting. Indirect. No, it won't be like watercolour though.
  In indirect painting you will be layering oil super thinned by medium. What is actually happening is that the pigment is thinned and spread, resulting in a translucent layer. Layer on layer it can have quite the effect. But it takes a long time to cure, and may crack. Most mentors will advise to simply forgo medium and do a more 'direct' method of painting.

  Oil paint and watercolor will not play nicely together. They have different carriers.

Hi! New.

I've started seed saving this year, largely as a means of saving money. I'm still learning the process for each plant. This year I saved peas, green beans, and bunches of flowers. Next year I'll save tomatoes, cucumber, and let some carrots overwinter (supposing they actually grow next year. Weather didn't cooperate this year)

What do I need to do to save as much viable seed as possible? And winnow out the bad seed... so I'm not re-seeding in the greenhouse endlessly.

I've read about the water-test. But it doesn't appear to have worked on everything. Example- the cleome seeds do not sink. Not a one. I've stratified a good handful and have them in a baggy with a papertowel to see if they'll germinate. I'll find out...

But, if I can learn from my betters and save a lot of heartache(time and effort), all the better!! Are there other ways to ensure that most of the seed I'm bothering to save is viable?

Thank you!

Lissa