Mark Roelofs

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since Apr 07, 2025
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Güéjar Sierra, Granada, Spain
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Recent posts by Mark Roelofs

Nice!

I have planted a number of plants last year as well, but they all died (or so i thought). They came back quite early and are also starting to flower now.
2 days ago
Thanks!

We have many chimneys... On the roof, the one on the left is for the RMH. It is maybe 1 meter of stone and then 3 meter of black pipe.
On the roof, the one on the right is for our kitchen stove, it is only stone. Draft is a lot worse with that one, the kitchen stove needs careful lighting..

Then the one closest to the RMH is the chimney from the downstairs (future) workshop. Also part stone and pipe

And the stainless steel one is fromnour diesel central heating.

Maybe one day i will make another one at the back of the house so we can geat with wood there too. Never can have enough chimneys
6 days ago
We have a manifold and barrel. There is about ~12cm of space in between the barrel top inside and the heat riser. I think I miscalculated one brick thickness, because i was aiming for 8cm. In the end, that would have made my manifold even lower, it is already pretty close to the top of the burn tunnel. I have nice clamps to connect the barrel to the manifold, but there is only 8cm from top of the burn tunnel to those clamps. So for insulation and a cob layer... I might end up having to (partially) cob over the band clamp. Ah well, we'll see.
6 days ago
oh, I thought I read in the manual that rockwool would be ok. Well, superwool will be better! Rockwool around the woodfeed and burn tunnel will be fine no? Temperatures will be way lower there.
1 week ago
I see I haven't shared the latest (dare I say final) design. It will be half barrels, with the exit pipe (150mm) put in about half the way into the stratification chamber. I will make a 10cm heigh wall below the half barrels (the barrels will sit on top of the wall to increase the heigh of the stratification chamber) and fill that in with floor insulation of about 5cms. On top of the barrels the bench will be made with cob, to a height of about 50cm.

The exit pipe will have a T in it so that we can prime the pipe if needed. Sometimes in winter we are away for a long weekend, so I think it will be good to have a primer.

Insulation of the floor and walls will be done with expanded clay. 10cm underneath the core, and 5 cms for the chamber and walls.

1 week ago
@Fox James: Thank you for that thread, that basically answered all my questions

Yesterday evening I dry-stacked the core and did a test run. Went well I think, the fire was very rockety and the heat out of the chimney was intens. Very exciting to see the power of the core.

For this 8" system I ended up with the following dimensions:
Woodfeed: 20x20cm opening, 41cm height
Burn tunnel: 20x19cm (WxH), 60 cm long, roof of 20cm
Heat riser: 20x20cm opening, 119cm height.

I made the heat riser out of 4cm thick firebricks because i bought a second hand batch and have too many anyway. I plan on insulating with rockwool, which i have laying around. The heatriser I was thinking of 6,5cm thick, and the woodfeed/burntunnel with a double layer of 4cm thick. And then finish it with cob.

Next step will be to cut the half barrels and clean them a bit more. I'm also gathering some materials and soon i will start with tearing down the old chimney to make room for the RHM.
1 week ago
Hi Glenn, welcome to the thread

Thanks for your suggestion. Half barrel also is/was an option. I do have quite some barrels laying around here. I'm just a bit vague on how the practical build would go regarding some aspect. I have been searching for build video/threads, but havent found any really. If anybody know of any, I would appreciate a link. I have some general questions If I would use barrels..

- Because of the shape of my bench, I would have to do a L shaped half barrel chamber. Matt Walker mentioned in his video that for the 90 degree turn, he just loosly cut some holes in the barrels and pasted them together with cob. Would cob be a proper way of sealing everything? Because cutting holes in barrels might not get me a tight fit like bought ducts would.

- Half a barrel is 30cm heigh. I would like to have a bench of ~50cm heigth. If seeling with cob works well, i'm thinking of just lifting the barrels of the ground with a layer of stones and then cob to press the bells into. this would make the chamber heigher, and reduce the amount of cob needed on top of the bell. I read in a different thread that 2" / ~5cm of cob on top of the barrel might already be enough.  

- Would the idea of putting the input duct from the manifold into the chamber work with a 90degree angle? I would prefer to push the hot air into the main part (the longest part of the L shape) of the chamber. Like in this video:


- In my setup an 'juice box' exit pipe would work well, i'm just not sure if I could locate it nicely against the wall. Put there might be room in the corner to just put a 90degree bend upwards.

I think I will make a quick sketch to see how this all would work in my setup. Half barrel would save me a bunch of money, and help with using the barrels I have laying around. And since I have not started on taking out the old chimney, there is still time for endless design changes haha.

EDIT: IF i do a half barrel, i will try to document the build here with a lot of photos. Although I have to say i'm very good at forgetting to take fotos of project/work when i'm busy with it...
1 month ago
Maybe to be more clear in about the post above. The size of the mass bench is more or less the same with 5 or 6 meters of tube. I just want to get the most heat out.

I have been searching/finding (well, actually the dogs dug a whole in a hill and found it) some clay and im making some test blocks. Very interested in working with clay, all around my house cement is crumbling with the years and it is poluting the land. Clay would be a way better option it seems.

I have made 2 bricks of half sifted (2mm) clay and half sand. 1 brick of only clay which i took out the bigger stones, and 1 brick of half clay which i took out the bigger stones and half fine sand. Let's see how they dry up. The clay balls I made before have all dried up nicely, so this is definilty useable material.

For the bulk of the mass I don't think it will be needed to have very fine clay/cob. So i will just make a filter with some chicken wire to get the bigger stones out. And then for the final plaster or for making clay slip I will sift some clay.

Probably will also make some clay seed balls this autumn to put out some different plants in my forest.
1 month ago
I plant favas in late october and let them overwinter in the sunny spot of my garden. My plan is to have a crop of beans before the summer fruits go in. I have 2nd generation seed now, i hope they get a bit more winter hardy with the years. I bought the most cold resistant once, the store bought, first generation, had a lot of loses i  the winter eventhough the weather was pretty ok. This year, the 2nd generation, survived way better with more extreme winter weather.

I also have fava beans that i bought as chicken feed, i will use these in the fall this year to grow a covercrop in my perrenial potatoe plot. That spot has no sun in winter, so they will most likely winter kill. But they will still have some months of growing season.
1 month ago
Hi Benjamin,

Yes i did, but that would give me only 5 meters of tube, that seems like a very small system.
1 month ago