Erik Green

Wow, This post is still here. I think I started on this site in Aug. 2010 with inquiries about composting black water.

How I have changed.

And just a Thanks to those who advised me against draining a single toilet directly into a shallow hole. In retrospect, not a good safe idea.

Now, I have built my portable, 34' long, Tiny house, with a compost toilet and I'm working on getting off-grid with a solar system.

So here's my thing with the composting toilet. I've been using it for 10 months now. It has a urine diverter with flushing mechanism that adds fresh water.

When I started, I wasn't sure what I would do with the solids.

I've been freezing my vegetable waste for years now, because it kills small bugs, keeps bugs away, and doesn't smell. Once frozen, I add the pail to the worm bin. They just love it.

So I came up with doing the same with fecal solids. And it works great so far, though I haven't been composting it yet. And freezing works great because the freezing kills most of the parasites that make fecal matter offensive and dangerous. It also kills the smell. I use a large cookie tin lined with a plastic shopping bag. I add absorbants like used paper towels and tissue and shredded paper. I simply place the tin in the toilet before use, use, and cover debri (solids ONLY), with tissues and scrap paper pieces, close the bag, put the lid on and put the tin in the freezer.

So I'm wondering, if anyone else is doing this?
What your experiences is?
Now that the debri is frozen and the parasites are mostly killed, couldn't this be added direct to composting?
Can one use standard bleached tp or does one need to use a special unbleached tissue?

You can see a video of the toilet on my youtube channel under the plumbing video.







[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/user/Livinghouse47[/youtube]

Thanks for the information Bob.
I'm looking to convert to all 12 volt lighting and I like the LED product.  I wondering what is the light like, color wise, compared to an incandecent? 

i applaude your efforts.  Did you have any problems with lingering colds/flu/etc.?

Thats good, I guess.  There are so many variables. 
I used a bit over 1600 kwhs.  but I  live in central WI and Jan-Feb is typically the coldest months of the year, and I have all electric heat.

When I first tried my experiments with heating pads and spot heating, I found that having it too cool wasn't good for my health.  The quick change of temperature wasn't good.  I ended up getting a very bad case of Bronchitis that lasted several months. 

I've decided its good to conserve, but I have to have my main room at 70 degrees.  So
I'm heating the main part of the home, about 400 s.f., to 70 degrees, and not providing any heat to the rest. 
Still my electric -heat/hotwater/water/general electric- bill was $146 last month.  That is like the least I have ever spent for that combination. 

The article is kind of interesting in that it claims Utah is the second driest state in this corrupted nation.

With that in mind, why would a business go to the expense of installing a rainwater collection system, of which would not provide enough water for the proposed application of washing numerous cars.

I mean its interesting that there are "laws" limiting people from rain water collection. 

We need laws limiting public lands from being stripped of natural resources and oil drilling.  Oh, sorry, we need Universal INFORCEMENT of laws such as that.

Here in WI I think the state was trying to give the barrels away.  If there is anything the great lakes region has, its clean usable water. 

lower light baffles installed with wires to hold in place.

bending the metal for the outside.  I used metal left over from a metal roofing project.  You can also use preshaped 6", 7", or 8", sheet metal ducting.  That would be the easiest.  You can also buy end caps instead of using cookie tins. 
Make sure that when everything is put together, NOTHING touches the bulbs.
 
The socket needs to be level and centered so that when bulb is installed it won't touch the sides, any baffles, or be bumped or punctured by any of the screws.  Any of these will cause bulb failure. 

Good luck.

If you are looking to get off grid, truly off grid and be ECO-friendly (not using gas or burning anything), this will certainly lead you there.

500 watts, per heater, is not impossible for a photovoltaic solar system. 

light plate installed in finished cyclinder.  This is the part that gets the hottest.  Air needs to cross it to carry the heat out.  This gets installed on a slant.  Use common sheet metal that you would find used for heat ducts.

light socket light baffle with folded edges (use a needle nose).  Again, this needs not touch the outside walls as air needs to flow upwards.  The plate needs to be suspended above the socket so air can flow upward, over socket and over bulb while preventing light from exiting the bottom.  It is suspended with some type of wires to keep it from moving around and being a safty issue.

finished wiring with thermostate.  make sure all wirind connections are properly made, sealed and protected.

Make sure to be careful handling sheet metal. watch for sharp edges. 

Upper light plate,  approx. shape with tabs for attaching.  Allow space all around edge so air can circulate.

pics didn't go through first time.

more pics in constructing this heater.  I need to name it.  I'm thinking of making a video with all the pics.

Rough frame from 1x4s.  Need feet to stabilize these relatively light weight structure.

wiring underneathe.  Make sure wires are secured so they can't rub against any sharp edges.