Ashley Baptiste : O. K., Kinda in order, yes its your fiber,Thermal Cob next to the base of your R.M.H. and your horizontal ductwork, needs intimate contact to seal all the nooks,
cracks, cavities, crevasses, etc. to seal up your duct work, it is also there to make contact so that the heat from the hot exhaust gasses can radiate up though the Cob and here
you do not want straw as it would be insulating.
We don't have to worry about rotting straw - mostly ! If the very best
wood we can burn is super dry wood cut and stored last year with a 10% Water Vapor, then thats our
benchmark !
Your (future R.M.H.) works best with wood that dry, however we want to talk about the 60% of the wood that we can get to pyrolyze or release its volatile gases, this is the part
of our burn that gives the super high temperatures, and great efficiencies to our stove, properly consumed in our R.M.H. we end up producing exhaust gases consisting of just
Carbon Dioxide, and water vapor. This is about 60% by weight of the fuel value (= HEAT!) of the wood, leaving - just charcoal !
If we have done our job right up to here the cob will suck up some of the water vapor and some of it will travel through the Thermal Mass, however the Cob itself will rarely see
more than 15% total water vapor 'locked', in the Cob this is practically Death Valley Desert ! Part of the reason for this happening is the tail end of the burn, when the R.M.H.
is at Maximum temperature, (and Its Internal '
Dragon' is happily Bathing in the Heat ) this is when we burn up the charcoal 'mostly'
This is the driest part of the burn and will
'pull back' some of the water vapor out of the Thermal Cob, This is a Gross over simplification, but pretty accurate ! Think Desiccated Mummies !
Yes, more sand is better, Clay hides a sinister side, depending what type it is, it Swells when wet and shrinks as it dries , We use Oregon Cob, which means a LOT of sand to 'lock'
up the Clay and restrict its ability to swell! Think two big R.C.M.P.s frog marching off the clay, keeping it from mischief !
For using sand in building we have to consider three (3) types, 1) Sand from the beach, polished smooth, round with no sharp corners = Bad, 2) 'River Bank sand, with corners but
not 'sharp' > usable but :p , and 3) Builders or Sharp sand, lots of sharp corners, a small lump of cob made with builders sand when held up next to your ear and worked will sound
gritty= Best !
Cinder Blocks are Crap, and there is/are lots of reasons why they are cheap, here they don't handle heat well, and they are too porous, we can seal them with a combination of Clay
Slip / Flour Paste, but we will be only solving some of the problems. You can use your cinder blocks to isolate the high temps radiating off of the Bottom of your R.M.H. stoping heat
energy from radiating away through your floor (Can be Good, can be Bad !), if you are stuck using an existing building this will allow you to use a R.M.H. sitting on a wood floor !
Remember that you are adding as much weight as a waterbed ! Additional Bracing may be in order !
Always remember and never forget
Cob will not 'burn down', it will not 'rot', bugs won't eat it, and its dirt cheap ! Repeat that to yourself Daily !
If someone wants to deliver you building supplies, AND you have room, and they are willing to use their fuel to get it there, thank them fully (beer works) and use it when you can !
For The Good of The Craft! As always, comments, and questions are solicited and Welcome ! Think like Fire, flow like a Gas, Don't be the Marshmallow , PYRO-Logically Big AL !