The Re:Fashion Wardrobe by Portia Lawrie

I give this book 10 out of 10 acorns.

I discovered it when I was leaving the library the other day. It was part of a display of new library acquisitions. The title grabbed my attention and the subtitle clinched it. I picked it up, flipped through it, and immediately understood what the author was doing. Portia Lawrie is showing us how to take "old" clothing from our closets, re-sale shops, and yard sales and turn them into garments that accommodate our personal style and fit properly: dresses from t-shirts, skirts from shirts, shorts from curtains, a quilted duster coat from a duvet(!).

What I especially like, is that the Lawrie's wardrobe concept is built around a capsule wardrobe. From the author:

"The most sustainable garment is the one that gets worn over and over again. We should be making clothes that earn their place in our wardrobes by working hard for years to come."

So what's a capsule wardrobe? "Capsules focus on incorporating good-quality garments that are versatile, coordinate well together, and fir the needs of individual lifestyles and personal aesthetics. . . Everything works together, and everything goes with something else. . . Quite simply, a capsule wardrobe enables you to achieve more with less."

In other words, not a hodge-podge of random items that I got just because they caught my fancy. The author goes on to teach the reader how to evaluate their current wardrobe, pick a palette, identify wardrobe gaps, and make a plan.

The next section discusses the secrets of secondhand shopping, how to do a burn test to identify fiber content, how to piece and combine different fabrics, over-dyeing, etc. Then comes tools and equipment, and after that, the projects. Eleven projects teach the concepts with clear instructions and pictures. Each project includes tips & tricks, and ideas for experimentation. The section closes with ideas for how to combine the garments into a variety of outfits.

The last section teaches re:fashion techniques: how to make pattern templates, fitting, sizing garments up or down, deconstruction, plus a variety of sewing techniques; everything from bias tape facings to zippers and button holes. A glossary and index follow.

My style is not necessarily the author's style, but she provides information I can use to find my own way. I discover so many appealing items on the thrift store $1 rack, but too often they are the wrong size or too faddish for me to consider buying. And then I often ask myself, do I really need another flannel shirt? I think this book is going to help me find a sustainable style that suits me, and helps me make wise clothing choices in the future.

I give this book 8 out of 10 acorns.


The important take-aways from this book:

1. individual items of clothing need  to be used longer and more times if we're going to reduce our "clothing footprint".

2. adjustable clothing that can accommodate changes in a person's shape, will be worn longer than tightly tailored garments.

3. basing your clothing choices on core colours that look good on you, rather than on this month's "in colour and style" will allow you to mix and match, layer up for weather, and give you a "capsule wardrobe" that will represent your own style.

4. a superb flow-chart on burn testing to ID fabric content.

5. a fast overview of basic sewing techniques which includes functional tips, such as how to make a side-slit seam hem which is one of those tricks that help with number 2 above.

6. how to add pockets.

7. if you're upcycling, getting the most use out of fabric that would otherwise go to the landfill is great, but if you're starting from raw fabric, try to use the most ethical option possible.

8. Don't be afraid to take 2 "too small" outfits and combine the fabric to make one "that fits great" outfit. Too many books like this aren't inclusive of our larger, more muscular permies, but Portia is clear about breaking those boundaries!


Where did the book disappoint a tiny bit?

1. We aren't all looking for "office clothes". Most of the examples weren't outfits I'd wear to go and feed the chickens.

2. Most of the outfits weren't designed to keep me as warm as I usually need to be. Her "Duvet Duster Coat" is a great concept, but some ideas for fastening it would have been a nice addition. Most sewing machines don't cope with making the giant button holes a coat like that might need.


This book is definitely worth a read, regardless of whether you're a beginner sewer, or have been sewing for years. We need more author/sewers putting out more books like this if we're going to get the clothing industry to recognize that people want more out of their clothing than 6 wearings!