Leonard Allen

and if i made it with steel framing instead of timber ?

R Scott wrote:Completely feasible, not sure if it is practical.  

The house will need a full subframe instead of relying on the trailer, pushing your weight to probably more than a pickup can tow.  At that point, you might as well build it out of a container and move it with a semi truck.  It isn't hard to bump out the sides of the container to get your 10 foot width.

thanks, so if i do it with the trailer i would have the subfloor made of 2x4s and 3/4 plywood, what would the subframe consist of if i build it on those beams?

This is something ideal i would like to do but i know it wouldn't be that simple, just asking for opinions on how realistic or not this is.

i wouldn't move the house more than once or twice, and not too far so it would be perfect to be able to remove the trailer and reuse it for other things.

I thought of making the house wider, 10', and putting beams on each side, they would stand on metal columns and concrete pillars, this way the trailer could slide in and out as you can see on the images.  

In that example the house is 10'x22', makes sense for me to make it a little wider also because it won't be moved often, so i would get a permit to move it.




Thanks

Hello

I live in a mountain area so lots of winding roads and some steep slopes, just wondering how realistic it is to move a tiny house in such terrain, would the house structure need more reinforcement? do you know any cases?

I would like to build a small one at first, maybe 8x12' or 10x10´not sure but it wouldn't be a 10x30` for instance.

Elliott,
i had to build it lower and in my case there were no problems, see this thread

https://permies.com/t/26748/rocket-stoves/level-horizontal-flue-feed-chamber

As Allen says, if you mean the bottom of the burn tunnel i made it like you say, the flue system 10" lower than the burn tunnel because i made an ashpit at floor level so i had to raise everything,and it all works perfect without a fan or anything. I guess the gases just keep falling until finding the horizontal pipe.

just curious ,what material and dimensions are the elbows you have made?


Leonard

that looks great, i built my first recently and also didn't know the dimensions for the manifold but i did it very similar in size to yours and it's working great, i have it running all day .
here are pics from that

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w145d2m7ami0zpq/7J1luXC2n0

allen lumley wrote: Karl M : I think we are going to have to let Leonard Allen give use a class in making stove pipe. If by now you had been on schedule to burn out your barrel, you
would have learned about how to deal with galvanized pipes tendency to outgas heavy metal zinc, so that we can use it! however at 1/3rd to 1/2 the price. I will
switch to the lightest grade I can find ! Think like fire, flow like gas ! Your PYRO - LOGICAL PYRO - MANIAC For the Future / Good of the the Craft !
As always, your comments and questions are always solicited and always welcome ! BIG AL !

allen lumley: I suggested the experts, like you, give us a class!, sounds like a better idea:) i think any galvanized pipe is expensive in our area, hence the idea of using bricks, like that fantastic ecodorp rocket stove, is it possible to do in smaller scale?, what should the cross section minimum size be for an 8" system if using bricks for the flue system

i don't think so if the cross section is bigger than the combustion unit, but i'll let the experts weigh in, i've seen one example on the web but i don't know the details , look for "ecodorp rocket stove".

and as you can see, i didn't use elbows either as they are expensive too, the elbows are just brick boxes, probably not the best solution but it's working just fine so far.
you could also make the entire thing from bricks