Cécile Stelzer Johnson

pollinator
+ Follow
since Mar 09, 2015
Merit badge: bb list bbv list
For More
Apples and Likes
Apples
Total received
In last 30 days
3
Forums and Threads

Recent posts by Cécile Stelzer Johnson

In Wisconsin, we don't have mule deer, but what we have will jump a 6 ft. fence easily from a dead stop.
I had 6 ft. posts all along, to which I then added 5 solar electric wires. It worked for a while, then the grass touched the electric fence, grounding it, and it didn't take them long to realize that. It sagged in places and they figured that out.
I decided to make use  of the 6 ft. fence to which I added wire fencing 5 ft. high but I elevated it with slanted rebars, one on every metal post and bent so it leans toward the outside. On top of that slanted fence, I added 2 ft. of fencing (2X4, galvanized, just like the fence) and fastened it to the rebars with metal zip ties). I bought 4 ft. fencing and cut it in half lengthwise, to make the 2 ft wide extension.
My big orchard now looks like a correctional facility, and they have not crossed it in 6 months.
I'm taking advantage that their eyes are on the sides of their head, making it difficult for them to appraise the obstacle. Having to clear the height but also the width makes them leery of entanglement and they are making no attempts.
In the garden, I'm using 4ft high cattleguard, with again a half of a roll of 4ft high galvanized above that. So this is only 6 ft. total. The cattleguard is too sturdy for them to attempt to push it, but they are very capable of clearing a 7 ft. fence when pressed. (I just have to remember to close the gates at night!)
But because I plant in beds, and each bed is about 2 ft away from the outside fence, I suspect that they are afraid of breaking a leg when they land, as their depth perception is quite poor.
I hope this helps.
9 hours ago

Lina Joana wrote:Om, so… my family has had sunchokes ever since I can remember. We eat them raw in salads, and I like the flavor.
However, any time we cook them, (baked, mashed, or in soup), they taste watery to me, with a “sharp” flavor that I don’t like at all.
What I am wondering is, is this a varietal thing? I have only ever eaten from the family patch. We nearly always dig them after frost, though we did try early to see if that improved cooking texture.
Had anyone had experience with different strains? Some being good cooked and some less so?



So, when raw, they are nice and crispy, good flavor, but when cooked, "sharp" and watery?
The watery part could be that they are cooked a bit too long, because indeed, if you cook them too long, they will eventually fall apart completely.
"sharp", I do not quite understand. Sharp like apple juice left a bit too long in the sun (your tongue tingles a bit), or too salty? It does sound like the cooking method. Does anything else you cook in that water have an off taste or do you soak them too long? or add too much salt?
I love them raw as well, like radishes, but the pink one give me serious gas. Not the white ones, so it could also be the cultivar, although tasting them raw side by side, I don't think I'd be able to taste much of a difference between the varietals.  I wish I could be more useful.
20 hours ago
If you bought the seeds, they have a date. If not, hopefully YOU wrote the year. Some seeds can be good for many years, but others are rather perishable.
https://joegardener.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Seed-Longevity-Chart.pdf
Long story short: if you have old seeds, toss them. In your garden, in your compost pile... Anywhere where they could still surprise you and germinate:
You will be better able to organize if you let go of the unusable or nearly unusable.
I save my seeds in favor boxes that I buy from Michaels. (An art & craft store here). Favor boxes are made of thin cardboard, so don't put them where they'll get wet. Little boxes 2" X2" X3" are the perfect size for pumpkins and other cucurbits...
I've re-used boxes for years, just changing the label.
I put those boxes in a few different places. Most are not afraid of the cold. They can be placed way up in the coop, above the chickens: It will be quite cold there, but not below zero.
The insulated garage, with a small heater + thermostat can be kept just above freezing, like refrigerator temperature. To encourage me to be vigilant, I put a lot of my canned goods there, in glass jars.
The rest, I keep here, in the office.
I try (but I'm afraid I have not been always consistent) to make a census of them on a spreadsheet, along with where I stashed them.
When the snow is gone, change of plans: I bring them out by planting date:
Some are cold crops (peas, lettuce, radishes... ) will have to go in the ground first.
Melons, corn and the like, warm crops, will go in later.
Of course, there are also cuttings of bushes, like raspberries, black currants and others. Last year, I thought ahead and made cuttings of black currants late in the fall, after the leaves had fallen. I stashed them outside, in a pail of dirt and dedicated a 2" pipe, 1 ft long to each of them. (I love that system: I cut chunks of PVC, like 1 ft long, stand them up in tall totes with a few small holes about 1" from the bottom, on the sides and fill all the pipes with good soil. This way, I can put 50 cuttings or so in one tote.
They stay outside all winter and when I see them take off in the spring, I pick up each pipe and check for roots at the bottom. when the roots start coming out of the bottom, I know they are good enough to plant.
For chestnuts, I wrap them up in a blue Scott's towel, get it wet then squeeze most of the water out of it. In March, most have started germinating and I put them in pipes just like the currants.
Chestnuts are very touchy: You don't want to mess with the root, which is very fragile, because if you break it, you'll just have to throw it: It would never make a tree.
I wish I had a hothouse or a solarium, but I do not have much room in the house: Only 3 shelves are facing East and South windows, so spots for starting stuff inside are rather limited. I buy a number of plants (herbs in particular), as most are hard to start...
I guessed I went a bit longer than just answering the question. Sorry: It's all gardening, though.
So yeah. It's messy. It's complicated, but I love it!
In a previous house, when I had a wood burning stove down in the basement, we would bring wood downstairs and stack it near the stove (but not too close) As we had plenty of wood, the wood could stay outside for a year before we needed it.
In the fall, we would bring as much of it as we could downstairs and it would finish drying. We did bring in a couple of mice and a number of insects, which wasn't too nice, but I regret my wood stove overall: It gave us a very comfortable heat.
It seems to me that if you kiln it, you have to build a kiln (not free) and are spending energy to dry it, though, which kinda defeats the purpose? or am I misunderstanding something?
5 days ago
Well, I'm in 4B, Central Wisconsin. Spring and Fall, in a Continental climate are the seasons that are quite unpredictable. Like they say, "if you don't like the weather, just wait a day: It will change".
Right now, December 26th, the snow is melting. That's not what you would expect.
After a cool spring, we had a torrid summer. There does seem to be a perturbance in the weather force.
2 weeks ago

Bj Murrey wrote:For me in north Texas, its been composting everything I can in place, and supplementing as I can with wood chips and manure. I went from straight sand in an oak forest to a foot deep of dark black soil full of life.over 10 years. Not hard work, and totally worth it. I prefer adding soil on top rather than trying to amend it in ground. Just my experience.

I bet its much colder up north!



That's pretty much my experience as well: My garden soil was a sandbox, with barely 1" of top soil when I started. the first thing I did was build beds, usually 4' X 8' and scraped the alleys clean so as to have 1.5" of "top soil".
I have chickens who give me *abundant* manure and their litter is made of wood chips, so when their house/ winter run gets cleaned, it all goes on the garden, or elsewhere, around prized trees.
Around here, town folks have to rake their leaves and bag them so they don't plug the city's sewers.
2 years ago, the weather was perfect (It stayed fairly dry for the entire week that the city was collecting). I got ahead and collected bags of leaves (with permission, of course), selecting the less groomed yards, as they are less likely to have been sprayed!
I collected over 100 big bags of the precious stuff and put my entire garden (and the alleys too) under a blanket of precious leaves. My garden has less weeds, I water less and I get more out of it, with a lot less effort. I now have almost a foot of good workable black soil.

Actually, as far as the weather, we have a pretty freaking mild fall and winter. We did get a "white Christmas", defined as a snow cover of at least 1", but we didn't have much more than that. It is melting now (34F) on the 26th of December.
2 weeks ago

Alina Green wrote:Some people buy chicken feet (aka "back scratchers"  haha) to add to bone broth, for the gelatin in all that skin and connective tissue...and toenails.  ugh.



Absolutely! although, personally, I like to remove the toenails but you don't have to. I leave the spurs on if I have  a rooster... Cut the chicken legs where the scales begin like you normally do. Scrub them well and clip the toe nails then.
Now, on to the scalding: keep some water boiling and immerse a few legs at a time for 20-30 seconds, then toss in freezing water. (Not too long or the scales will start to really grab the tissue underneath and you'll have a mess: It won't peel well)
(Just like peeling eggs, it is the temperature shock that loosens the scales from the legs or the shell from the hard boiled egg).
Rub the legs between your fingers and remove all the scales. They will peel off in just a couple of pieces. You now have very clean legs to use for broth: nothing objectionable about nice, clean "back scratchers".
And they do make the best broth!
2 weeks ago
It won't gel if you use too much water, cook too hot/fast (breaking down gelatin), use bones without enough connective tissue (like just marrow bones), or don't simmer long enough, while store-bought broths often skip gelatin-rich parts for clarity and shelf stability, making them less jelly-like.
It is the cartilage, skin and joints that turn gelatinous if you give them a looooong, sloooow cook. (Like more than 24 hours, for sure)
Marrow is good for flavor but won't turn to gelatin.
You want to add salt and spices just before you can the broth.
2 weeks ago
My daily ritual starts in the evening: I go to sleep thinking of my next project. I have found that if I didn't have the solution when I went to sleep, I often thinking of a new idea that I can use while I'm sleeping. When I wake up, I'll often have the idea I didn't have when I went to sleep.
I get up around 5 am and right now, I'm on crutches, so no bath or shower.
I strip naked in front of the sink  and reach what I can reach with a wet cloth. (right now, no soap because I could not rinse properly). Then I print my SUDOKU, weigh myself before I dress and fix myself a cup of coffee, fix a no cook breakfast (yogurt & fruit sauce) read the digital edition of my paper while doing my SUDOKU. (That's my little lump of sugar high, my little reward, before I tackle work.)
Now, I'm ready!
3 weeks ago
Before I can preserve it, I'd have to grow it, and unfortunately, I do not have a machine that could harvest any amount of grain. I'm thinking of fabricating one with an electric hedge cutter (battery powered Ryobi) to which I would add wheels. I'm still thinking about that one, but I figured I could cut a couple of day's worth easily.
I don't have a thresher either, but since it is for chickens, they could get the whole plant, clipped at the base, especially for buckwheat, as this is a bugger to separate from the chaff.
I'd like to grow rye too, for ryegrass to bale and sink in the pond. (Great mosquito killer!)
Right now, I just buy grain as I go and store it in homer pails in the shed, near the coop. The homer pails with a good fitting lid are perfect: Mice can't get at them and they are not so heavy that I have a tough time taking them to the coop. In the winter, I have a rugged sled, like hunters use to bring home a big deer.
My discovery is that even when you don't have much snow at all, the sled will glide on grass... for a while.
Next, I switch to the little metal, hand pulled, trailer.