Ulla Bisgaard

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since Jul 11, 2022
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Biography
People call me a jack of all trades, but master of non. I know a little and dabble a little in many things, but there are very few things I am an expert in,
I believe in a holistic approach to life and what surrounds us. I believe in finding happiness in small things, or those that looks small but still have a big impact of your life, I live with my husband on a 1/2 acre homestead, where we practice permaculture. We have a 3300 square foot food forest garden, and a 20 raised bed garden, where we grow about 2200 pounds of fruit, vegetables, berries, herbs, spices and grains. We keep chickens, ducks and rabbits for livestock. Both the rabbits and chickens was on the endangered livestock list, when we started out. Now they are all off that list. While we can’t produce everything we eat, we try to produce as much as we can,
I love and engage in reading, gardening, herbalism, food preservation, sewing and alchemy.
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Grow zone 10b. Southern California,close to the Mexican border
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Recent posts by Ulla Bisgaard

Alan Burnett wrote:The past few years, I've had a very simple grow 'room' of a large plastic bin with a grow light under a table. I'd order my seeds in February, plant them indoors in March/April, and plant them out to the garden once they fill their pots. I know I'm learning because I'm making a ton of mistakes.

This year I'm upgrading to a 3'x5' table in the corner of a concrete basement, plus enough space to work while inside. I still have to figure out exactly what to do for walls, I am thinking of fastening mylar sheets to the concrete walls, and hanging blankets + plastic sheeting for the new walls, which I'll need to pass through to work. The room has a window, and I'm not sure how it'll behave when the cold dry winter winds meet the relatively insulated basement where I'm watering plants regularly under a grow light.

I really want to propagate cuttings but it's been a bit discouraging how many cuttings have died under my care so far. I'm hoping this new grow room will work out well for this year's crop



It takes time and experimenting to get it right. I tried two other ways, before I ended up with what I have now. When I started, I used emergency thermal blankets, since they are so cheap to get. Later I invested in what we have now, which is an insulation material you buy in rolls. They last longer than the emergency blankets.
This year, I started my cold season crops in August, when it was 115 degrees F outside. Once we hit Halloween, I will transplant them all out, and by then the seedlings will be very big. This is important since by then we will start getting shorter days, which slows down the growth rate of my Brassicas and other cold season crops. If I don’t do this, I will get some smaller broccoli and cauliflower, with no big heads, and they will bolt before we get much harvest out of them. It’s the same with cabbages, lettuce and other greens like Boc Choy. This was a struggle until I started using an indoor grow room. It’s a very common problem when growing in our area, since we transition from hot to cold crops at the same time. It means that we are harvesting, prepping my raised beds and planting them, at the same time.
Right now I still need to harvest sweet potatoes, lots of herbs, turmeric, ginger, sorghum and beans. We can and are pulling the beans, grains and herbs, but the rest isn’t ready to harvest yet. The sweet potatoes won’t be ready until after thanksgiving, which is okay, since the root vegetables I am planning to direct seed there, don’t need as much time as the rest, plus they won’t go to seed as fast.
I have attached a couple of pics so you can see how they look.
22 hours ago

Anne Miller wrote:

Jill Dyer wrote:Thick layer of any sort of mulch would be great - however this is not encouraged due to fire risk.  Rocks/stones are the preferred solution.
You may hear mumbling and muttering from this direction . . .



Jill said, My problem is weeds - went out to get some rhubarb, and every where was up-knees in an assortment of weeds. Take your eyes of 'em for a minute



Those weeds are probably more of a fire risk than a mulch would be.  A mulch would have moisture under it where the weeds do not.



Yep. The straw mulch get enough water, that they compost within 6 to 12 months. It’s the reason I have to add more each time I replant the beds. It’s also what makes the bugs in the soil prefer the straw to my seedlings.
We take fire prevention very seriously here, since we live in a high risk area.
1 week ago

Patrick Edmonds wrote:Oh Ulla, I love this!  It’s so relatable,  the mix-ups, the surprise plants, and of course the “helpful” birds doing their own thing. I’ve had similar moments where I swear my garden is running itself (and sometimes doing a better job than me!). Honestly, it sounds like you’ve built a little ecosystem where everything,  including the birds,  works together in its own funny way. And hey, accidental wasabi isn’t the worst surprise!



Good, it was supposed to be a funny post. Sometimes you just have to laugh about the things happening around you. I manage a 3300 square feet food forest garden, and a raised bed garden with 20 raised beds. If I take things too seriously I would drown. Instead I see it as natures way of making my life more interesting and enjoy the shenanigans the critters get up to, while embracing mistakes. Nothing and no one is perfect, and that’s just fine.
When we moved in here 10 years ago, it was a house sitting on 1/2 acre of dirt. Now I have a huge thriving garden with more insects and critters arriving each year. This year the first grasshoppers appeared, and while I don’t like they ate my parsley, it makes me proud that the land has healed enough for them to return. It’s also good exercise chasing them, so I can give them to my chickens.
1 week ago

Jill Dyer wrote:Ain't that the truth!   My problem is weeds - went out to get some rhubarb, and every where was up-knees in an assortment of weeds. Take your eyes of 'em for a minute. . . Rained overnight (a surprise) and everything was wet, so did a pull and drop.  Found lettuces!!! And last years capsicums are still hinging in. There's cabbage seedlings in the Aloe Vera pot, and several unidentifiable sprouting things in the compost. Oh, and then the birds have nipped off the baby spinach plants - my fault for not replacing the mesh cover on the raised garden bed.  Just not enough hours in the day, or resilience in the back, or knees.


That’s why I add a thick layer of straw mulch on all of my raised beds. With a thick layer, I don’t get as many weeks
1 week ago

Riona Abhainn wrote:Informative.  I hear very similar planning and gardening strategies on the Epic Gardening podcast, and they're also in San Diego.


Yes, I follow them too, plus San Diego seed company. I wrote this to make a handout for the people who comes for the tours we have in spring and fall. . It’s the question I get asked the most, and I also think it’s one of the hardest thing to master in our grow zone.
Having a food forest garden and a raised bed garden, means a lot of logistic work plus we grow more food than Kevin does, but he also isn’t finished planting all of his homestead. He also uses more raised beds than I do, which is logical as they sell them. I love the pots they sell btw. Super good quality.
Anyway, I am also working on a catalog of all the plants we grow, also for the tours, together with my excel sheets that shows how much we harvest. I also plan my garden crops 5 years ahead, to ensure proper crops rotations.
1 week ago
You know you are getting older, when the chaos starts in the nursery/green house.
What I have labeled as broccoli, turned out to be wasabi, and I have no idea why I started radishes indoors, and lettuce already in August. I am pretty sure my lettuce will have fully matured before it gets cold enough for me to plant them. They do look amazing though 😂
I am glad I figured it out now, and not later. The flavor profile between wasabi and broccoli are so different 😝.
I panicked for a while, until I found 4 four packs in my nursery that also says broccoli. Now I will just have to hope, those actually turns out to be broccoli.
If I seed broccoli too late, they usually end up bolting. Bolting means the birds take over the planting and seeding for the next season. That’s how I ended up with a huge broccoli growing in the crack between my carrot planters, and our patio, during the hot season, when they aren’t supposed to be able to grow.
Sometimes I think the birds are better gardeners than I am. 👩🏼‍🌾 when I direct seed anything, they always come and and steal the seeds. I used to think they were eating them. Instead it turns out they just want to mess with me.
It’s fair that they do some work though, since they think I am working for them, not the other way around.
Last spring and summer, I had sunflowers growing everywhere and I got many compliments for them. I didn’t tell anyone that I didn’t plant those, so the birds did. I only had problems, when people asked me that type of sunflowers they were, and I had no clue. 🤷 next spring I am just going to toss out seeds, and let the birds put them where they want them.
1 week ago
.Growing food year-round in USDA grow zones 9 through 11, particularly in areas with distinct seasonal changes in sunlight and temperature, presents unique challenges. If you live near the equator with consistent daylight, this guide may not apply. Here, I’ll share how we manage year-round food production on our small homestead in southeast San Diego, located in zone 10b.
Our Homestead Setup
Our half-acre homestead includes a house, driveway, a 3,300-square-foot food forest garden, and a raised bed garden with about 20 beds. Together, these produce approximately 2,200 pounds (1 metric ton) of vegetables, fruits, berries, herbs, nuts, and grains annually. This harvest sustains our family and feeds our ducks, chickens, and rabbits, which provide all our eggs and some meat.
I manage both gardens with occasional help during seasonal transitions. Contrary to common assumptions, I don’t spend all day gardening or in the kitchen. With strategic planning and a few time-saving techniques, I keep chores manageable and spread out.
Understanding Our Three Seasons
In zones 9 through 11, we experience three distinct seasons with varying temperatures, though specifics depend on your exact location within these zones:
•  Cold Season (October/November to March): Daytime temperatures rarely drop below 36°F (2°C), with nighttime lows typically between 36°F and 40°F (2–4°C). Frost is rare but possible, especially in zone 10b and up, occurring perhaps once a decade. Some cooler nights may persist into April. Zones 10b and 11 also face a higher risk of extreme heat during other seasons, requiring careful plant protection.
•  Warm Season (April to June): Temperatures range from 70°F (22°C) to the mid-90s°F (32°C), ideal for many plants.
•  Hot Season (July to October): Daytime temperatures can reach 122°F (50°C) in direct sun, posing challenges for young or sensitive plants.
These temperature swings affect what we grow, when we plant, and how we protect our crops, especially perennials and young plants.
Seasonal Crop Selection
Our planting schedule aligns with these seasons to maximize productivity:
•  Warm and Hot Seasons (April to October): We grow sun-loving crops like flowers, herbs, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, cucumbers, melons, peas, beans, tomatoes, corn, hibiscus, asparagus, rhubarb, and grains. Many perennials, such as fruit trees and berries, thrive but may need shade during the hottest months.
•  Cold Season (October/November to March): We focus on cool-season crops like lettuce, mushrooms, collards, mustard, bok choy, Asian greens, brassicas (cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage), alliums (onions, leeks, chives, garlic), and root vegetables (carrots, parsnips, turnips, beets, radishes).
•  Year-Round Crops: With proper shade during the hot season, we grow celery, collards, and certain herbs continuously.
Young perennials, like newly planted fruit trees or shrubs, require shade in the hot season and protection from cold snaps during the cold season to prevent damage, especially in zone 10b and up where occasional cooler temperatures can occur. Mature plants are more resilient but still need consistent watering year-round.
Logistics and Planning for Success
The overlap of planting and harvesting seasons can be overwhelming without a solid plan. Here’s how we manage:
1.  Staggered Planting and Harvesting:
•  We start annuals in an indoor nursery to control timing. For example, brassicas (e.g., broccoli, cauliflower) are started in mid-August and transplanted in early November for harvest around Thanksgiving or Christmas. Lettuce, which matures in about 60 days, is started in mid-September and October, with new batches sown every two weeks for a continuous supply.
•  Root vegetables like carrots and parsnips are direct-seeded in October, while beets are started indoors and transplanted after sweet potato harvest around Thanksgiving.
•  Radishes are tricky in our climate due to their tendency to bolt. To prevent this, we direct-seed them in October under a thick layer of straw mulch and a shade cloth, ensuring they develop roots rather than pods.
2.  Crop Rotation and Bed Management:
•  Our garden beds are in constant use, so soil health is critical. After harvesting, we top beds with compost mixed with rabbit manure (a slow-release fertilizer) and a thick layer of straw mulch. This suppresses weeds, retains moisture, regulates soil temperature, and nourishes soil organisms, reducing pest damage to seedlings.
•  We test soil annually for mineral deficiencies and amend as needed. When planting, I make a hole through the straw and soil, place the seedling, and cover the base, adding more mulch later if necessary.
3.  Planning Tools:
•  A large whiteboard and the Seedtime website help us create detailed schedules for planting, harvesting, and bed preparation. These tools ensure we match harvest dates with transplanting times and rotate crops to maintain soil health.
•  Saving past plans helps us refine crop rotations and avoid repeating mistakes.
Time-Saving Hacks
•  Straw Mulch: A thick layer of straw mulch is a game-changer. It minimizes weeds, reduces watering needs, stabilizes soil temperature, and supports beneficial soil organisms.
•  Indoor Nursery: Starting seeds indoors allows precise timing and protects seedlings from extreme weather.
•  Perennial Selection: Choosing fruit trees and berries with staggered harvest times ensures year-round production. For example:
•  Avocados: Hass avocados are harvested from March to October, while Fuerte varieties cover October to March, providing year-round fruit.
•  Citrus: Varieties ripen from January to June.
•  Berries and Other Fruits: Strawberries (some everbearing), mulberries (early spring), peaches (early summer), plums (late summer), sapote, cactus fruits, pomegranates, and persimmons (September to New Year) create a continuous supply.
•  We also grow bananas and various berries to diversify harvests and support pollinators year-round.
Supporting a Healthy Ecosystem
Year-round blooms are essential for pollinators and predatory insects that control pests like aphids, worms, and whiteflies. By planting a mix of flowers, herbs, and fruit trees with staggered blooming and fruiting periods, we ensure a steady food source for beneficial insects, maintaining a balanced ecosystem.
Navigating Seasonal Transitions
Transition periods—when harvesting, preserving, bed preparation, and transplanting overlap—can be hectic. A detailed calendar is crucial to avoid planting too early or late and to manage produce preservation. For example, sweet potatoes harvested in November free up beds for beets, while brassicas transplanted in early November are timed to avoid bolting as days lengthen.
Final Thoughts
Year-round gardening in zones 9 through 11 requires careful planning, but the rewards are worth it. By choosing the right crops, staggering planting and harvest times, using time-saving techniques like straw mulch, and maintaining soil health, we produce a diverse, abundant harvest while keeping chores manageable. With a little foresight and the right tools, anyone in a similar climate can enjoy fresh, homegrown food all year long.
If you have any hacks or tips, or it’s different in your Growzone please post a reply so we can all learn together.
2 weeks ago
I haven’t tried it, until this year. I planted pigeon peas, that should survive the cold season, and had ordered a jack bean, that was canceled. I am going to try that again this in March. I will point out though, that we use irrigation. I planted the pp to provide shade for my coffee trees.
3 weeks ago
You know you are a permie, when grasshoppers eat you produce, so you catch them and feed them to the chickens, thinking take that your …..
When your find peach tree seedlings and think yeah free trees. When you look at your garden and think, where can I fit in more trees.
When you start rescuing trees and plants from nurseries.
3 weeks ago

Alana Rose wrote:Wow! The narratives and photos in these posts are so incredibly inspirational! Thank you so much for taking the time to share them with us!


Thank you. I am glad you find them useful. In the beginning the blog was more for myself than others, so I m extra happy people find them useful.
3 weeks ago