Samperi Hatfield

Len wrote:
I don't know about where you are but here hydro tells the police about high users that might have a grow op. Oh, I guess you would have one Anyway, I would suggest you find out about any laws in your area for or against what you want to do. Probably keep great records and have an open house policy.

Note two. Once the police find a grow op. they confiscate the house and sell it off. The report of those who have bought such a house is that it is rotten from the excess moisture. So be careful how you set up. Drug growers don't care what happens to the house as they expect to loose it... after earning many times it's value. So that may be just their desire to maximise use of floor area and the desire not to be there when the raid happens.

Anyway, just the two precautions I thought of.

I don't much care for your implications sir.. As a matter of fact, I have a small indoor chili/ tomato hydroponic setup in my house. As to how my grow setup could go to the police and tell them tales of "high users" is beyond me.

Can't really understand why you would start talking "precautions", after I explicitly said that I'm not endorsing pot growing.

Reference to pot growers was made solely for the fact that the most innovative and careful indoor setups are usually designed by them (as they probably want to be as stealthy and efficient as possible).

Well.. I don't really see how a cat would be that big of a problem but I'm quite sure any wall sturdier than cardboard would be cat proof.

I don't think anyone will be able to tell you whether or not you need ventilation/ heating in your basement but you. It depends on too many variables, such as;

-The amount of grow lights
-The power of said grow lights
-The thermal efficiency of your bulbs/ ballasts
-Amount of time that animalia spend in the grow space (Gives off heat and delicious CO2)
-The genus of the seeds you intend to germinate there


For an indoor grow space, I would say that learn from the masters.. Pot growers! You'd be amazed at the awesome designs by some of them. I can tell you that those guys (at least who take it seriously) don't leave anything to chance when it comes to indoor gardening.

Good sources are easy to find online. For example type "international cannagraphic forums" to google and try to find the "Growroom designs & Equipment" -portion. You'll find designs ranging from a couple hundred bucks to tens of thousands spent in one room.

And just so you don't get all scared of all the drugs... The principles for growing ANYTHING are pretty much the same.

(This is not an endorsement to grow pot. Just trying to be helpful.)

selfsufficientlivi wrote:
Get land? I don't feel like buying land! Living on public land is the way to start a moneyless community.

Sieben Linden PURCHASED their land, which means they paid for it, I don't support that community model

Sorry for nitpicking; but wouldn't you agree that permaculture practices are about what one does in order to live off land?

What I mean is, I find the origins of the land completely irrelevant to practicing permaculture.

I'm not familiar with the village in question. Just saying that just because someone has purchased something at some time in the past, does not mean that that person has anything to do with any kind currency at the moment.

Unfortunately I'm no expert in the field of straw building. I do, however, know a thing or eight about fungi.

If you're sure that the clay straw is dry enough -throughout-, there should be no problem of molds even if you plaster over it. Funguses can only thrive if the substrate that they grow on is sufficiently moist.

Superficial mold damage in basements for example are fixed by thoroughly removing the moisture from the air and damaged areas. After that, the moldy spots can be scraped off (I can't stress the need for a decent respirator enough for this procedure) if paint is to be applied. But even if you leave the mold as is after drying, it won't be able to grow if the humidity of air/ substrate is low enough.

Since you already sprayed your claystraw with a fungicide (borax), I don't really see why you couldn't plaster right over the mold. As long as the plaster sticks well enough. Mold doesn't produce fruit bodies, but instead generates spores straight from the mycelium. That could bring out a problem in the adhesion of the plaster.


One other thing that comes to mind, is that earthen plaster is probably a better alternative than cement stucco for you. I base this hypothesis solely on the fact that cement breathes much more poorly than clay. -And is required to stay wet for as long as the cement cures. The humidity from the cement might end up getting trapped in to the wall for a longer time, resulting in rehyrdation of the straw. But again, even this should not pose a big threat if the borax was applied carefully.

So did I get this straight? The sand that goes in the cracks between the bricks is varnished over with the roller? Doesn't the sand get stuck to the roller?


Sorry. I might just be dumb and missing something obvious