I am still having issues with Cura slicing software honoring some of the model's features. The red areas (see pic) are problematic. I plan to simplify the model, but keep its outer shape, to fix issues like this.
The hardest parts are behind me (like the sheep's interior void and modeling the two screw features). For the needle compartment, I scaled the screw's interior piece down by 0.5mm on each side (-1.0mm on X and Y axis).
Peter E Johnson wrote:I tried to stick a threaded model inside of the sheep, but I've never used Meshmixer before which makes it a bit of a steep learning curve. I couldn't figure out how to keep the inserted hollow part hollow, and fill in the gap between them.
I don't know Meshmixer, but I would try to make "solids" and "subtract" from each other.
I didn't realize the acorn file was created.
I thought that was wooden.
I want to continue with the sheep idea, but we have a backup plan. ;)
The file is $2, if anybody wants to cut to the finish line.
And by the way, my printer was only $217 on amazon.
Note:
1) This is what a print file / bed arrangement looks like.
Carla Burke wrote:would a 4th Grove for thread be too much to add?
Yes.
Let's see.
I estimate 10 mm between peaks.
Do you like the (thread) slopes on the acorn example?
Should the (thread) valley measure more than 2 mm?
What measurements do you forecast?
Per overall size of sheep, what do you estimate?
What is comfortable in your opinion?
My estimate is 70 mm interior hollow.
Maybe we can have the exterior (front to back) dimension at 85 mm.
I think the sheep will appear skinny.
It could be 45 mm wide, but is that overkill?
Is my length of 85 mm overkill?
Per thimble measurements, are all thimbles the same?
I have a thimble at my house that I can model.
Do you have any special notes of thimble diameters or/and textures?
Maybe that is where we can slip an advertisement?
Note:
1) I talk in millimeters because of the printer output / language.
2) The example acorn screw top alignment does not matter. I think the butt of the sheep alignment should be made NOT to matter (in the final design). Meaning, I think the butt of the sheep should be a dome shape.
3) Design for four thread valleys.
I did a sketch to document the dimensions Carla gave me in Purple Moosages.
Notes:
1) Print everything with white filament, except the thimble (where I will use silver filament).
2) Screw caps will require at least 1.5 rotations to secure.
3) Measure a thimble to acquire dimensions.
4) Slow print thread holder for smoot surfaces.
5) Complete 30 prints well before Christmas.
6) Place a web address on the underside.
7) Prevent rolling.
8) Small cap is white for easy visibility; less likely to get lost.
9) 2mm depth might need increasing.
Do y'all really want an acorn though? Can I convince you to dream some other object up? :)
Like...
a pig,
a great pyrenees,
something Paul talks about,
something Jeff Lawton talks about,
something Sepp Holzer talks about,
what does Opaline think,
a mini wofati,
Toots the van...
Just wanted to poke the imagination one last time before starting a long journey of 3D modeling. ;)
That estimation is for the entire order.
Regular PLA filament is $20/1kg roll.
Does a hackerspace, high school, college, library, or friend near you have a 3D printer?
If so, you could cut out the shipping, which is what I like most about 3D printing.
I am using this as a test case, so please don't worry about me spending time and money to make this work. I want to see if permies digital market would be a good place for a permaculture 3D printing file hub. This is one of two items identified on the forums so far.
I just got a 3D printer (Ender3v2) and I'm really good with SketchUpPro.
I am marking this forum and will try to knock this project out.
Going forward, I think it would be fun to post 3D print files on the permies digital market, so people can buy the file and have their print the next morning.
I just got into 3D printing, and I am really good with SketchUpPro.
I would like to put some files on the permies digital market. Do you see any needs amongst the permies community?
I have spotted two 3D printing needs thus far:
1) urine diverter for a saw dust 5 gallon bucket toilet.
2) all-in-one sewing kit holder shaped like an acorn.
I think it would be cool if permies digital market had a section for 3D print files.
People could buy a file, start the print, and have the item when they wake up the next morning.
I think I understand.
I think the bench should have "poo-shields" leading to the bucket in case an unfortunate situation occurs.
The "poo-shields" could be wiped clean with ease.
I think toilet paper, saw dust, cleaner, and more... could be in the bench, but in a separate cabinet/compartment.
Another Question:
6) Will the system be held within a big wooden box with toilet lid on top, elevated about 6 inches above the bucket rim? Or is this going to be a much more complex design where weight of the human rests on the bucket? (I am new to this.)
Luke Mitchell wrote:
Another question could be: what size waste pipe is commonly used for the urine?
Taking a quick look at PVC pipe sizes that are readily available here in the UK, 1.5 inch pipes seem pretty common but 0.9 does not.
I believe we need to decide on an interior dimension.
I believe we need a flex clear tube/hose.
I believe we need a diameter that will fit inside the mouth of the bottle receiving the urine.
This is what I've gathered:
- The urine diverter that has two grips for the rim of the 5 gallon bucket, would be a smaller print. Small prints would be advantageous, because default printers are based on print bed sizes (cubic measurements of outputs).
- The urine diverter models direct the flow into an area of the bucket, or guide the flow out the wall of the bucket.
- The urine diverter model that is flat upon the rim of the bucket, is a large print; larger than most default printer beds. I believe these could move or shift; they don't look to be fixed in place.
- Some models attach to the bottom side of a wood bench, and do not attach to the 5 gallon bucket.
- Some models grip the 5 gallon bucket and either: sit inside below the rim level, or elevate above the rim level.
My questions as of now:
1) Where do we want the flow to go?
2) Can we do a model with two grips for ease of print, and meeting the needs of the most basic system ie. 5 gallon plastic bucket alone?
3) I see one model has a drain diameter of 0.75 inches and another has 1.50 inches. What should we shoot for?
4) Some models have the drain location centered, and some models have the drain location moved forward which is closer to the bucket's wall. Which will we desire?
5) I think we will need to tell people which PLA filament (printing material) is best for resisting problems from the waste embedding itself into the material. Do y'all know which PLA filament this would be? Some materials need certain sized nozzles, and the print files need to specify temperatures and speeds.
polly jayne smyth wrote:Same here! Just bought a 40' motorhome and have composting toilet (shakes 5 gal bucket with a lid atm!). Would LOVE to have a diverter - what can I do to help this project along?
Cheers ~ :)
I don't know the details. If y'all post specifics, I can get on this design.
How does this work? What kind of NFTs were farmers creating, and what was the incentive for the community to buy?
Crypto has a lot of scammers.
Some possible fails in the world of decentralized finance:
1) not well structured
2) speculation based on trend
3) third party promises
4) private group pump and dump
Tomke Roolfs wrote:Do you think this will be a problem?
No, I don't think it will be a problem. I think it will decrease the amount of hours it can operate. I believe a large solar collector should be desired, but your construction looks really nice. I would offer you ratio math if I had it. Looks great! Thanks for the pic!
.png)
Looks great! Thanks for the pic!