Anyone got a 3D printer and want to make my life better?

I want this!  
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/magic-acorn-needlecase

or maybe this!  It's got Blinky from the Simpsons!

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/fishes-needlecase

 

 

so how does it work?  Does the printer use different colour plastic or do we have to paint it?  

How much would something like this cost to make (minus the cost of the machine)?

r ranson wrote:so how does it work?  Does the printer use different colour plastic or do we have to paint it?  

How much would something like this cost to make (minus the cost of the machine)?

I do have a 3D printer! Imagine a very thin cake layer built from the bottom up. So in 3D printing a thin plastic is built up layer by layer and can come in different colors. The 3D printer I have uses PLA plastic and I have not used from a number of years. I think the cost would be a few US dollars because of the size. For a 1kg roll of printer filament is about $25 USD. I am still working on some issues with the printer I have and can not make things at this time.

From #2 Son:
1. The base colour a printer uses is based on the colour of filament that you buy. Very few printers print multiple colours (at least at the home level).
Thus, most people would print in the colour they've got and then paint it.
2. The "pattern" (downloaded file) is about $2.50 Canadian. The filament cost is minimal. The electricity cost is noticeable as 3D printers are power-hungry, although in this area, electricity is relatively inexpensive.

So to print just one, you'd be looking at about $4 Can or less. The more you want, the more the file cost is distributed, bringing the costs down per each.

I would want 3 - 5
one for me, two for Christmas gifts.  two more to give away later.

Can't think of anything else I would want to 3d print, so can't justify buying a new toy.  

I'm guessing the other big cost is time?  How long would this mean the machine can't be printing other things?  Do they take 10 min?  An hour?  36 hours?

Someone more skilled than me could probably turn and then carve the acorn out of wood fairly easily.

Looks like a fun project for future me.

L. Johnson wrote:Someone more skilled than me could probably turn and then carve the acorn out of wood fairly easily.

Looks like a fun project for future me.

Wood would be amazing.  Do you think the thread spool with needle storage is tureable?  

We probably wouldn't need the thimble - this is a pretty personal item and works well in metal.  

Painting might be fun.  I've always wanted to try painting minitures.  

r ranson wrote:
Wood would be amazing.  Do you think the thread spool with needle storage is tureable?  

Definitely! I have a turned needle holder. It's just a simple tube with some brass threads (as in screw thread, not yarn) pressed into the body and the lid. I've seen boxes with screw-on kids that don't use brass - the screw thread can be turned too.

Two types of thread being discussed make this a little wonky... haha

If the cap screws on it will have screw threads. These are made with screw taps in the appropriate diameter, nothing particularly special.

I think you could pretty easily do a friction fit cap too though.

Check your local library; many of them now have 3D printers you can use for a tiny fee. Or a local makerspace. Since you’ve already identified the file you want to use, it’s pretty easy to get a cost estimate.

Along these lines, can anyone recommend a good introduction to scanning / pattern design process for 3d printers?  I have access to a printer at work and want to copy a specific thing I own.  Any good tutorials and/or software to start with?  Many thanks!

Morfydd St. Clair wrote:Along these lines, can anyone recommend a good introduction to scanning / pattern design process for 3d printers?  I have access to a printer at work and want to copy a specific thing I own.  Any good tutorials and/or software to start with?  Many thanks!

My husband is using FreeCAD to design things to 3D print. He has also scanned his own images into the program to pad out to 3D. He watches tutorials on YouTube and reads the FreeCAD forums to learn how to use the program in general and what he wants to do specifically.

I love it! I may ask my husband if he can make one for me with his 3D printer. Obtaining filament of the proper colors might make it cost prohibitive, however. I think he just has black right now so it would cost a lot to get set up to do the project, though the filament wouldn't go to waste.

Katie Nicholson wrote:I love it! I may ask my husband if he can make one for me with his 3D printer. Obtaining filament of the proper colors might make it cost prohibitive, however. I think he just has black right now so it would cost a lot to get set up to do the project, though the filament wouldn't go to waste.

I wonder what kind of paints one needs to paint the plastic.  It might be fun to try.  I haven't painted anything more interesting than a wall since art class.  

r ranson wrote:I wonder what kind of paints one needs to paint the plastic.  It might be fun to try.  

#2 Son uses an acrylic spray paint that says it bonds to plastic as a primer, then uses common acrylic craft paints for the colours.  

However, if it's going to ride around in a pocket or purse, the paint will tend to wear off unless you add a top, clear "hard" coat over the paint. That said, his first reaction to the question was that if it is going to ride around in a purse, he wouldn't bother painting it at all - just leave it whatever colour the filament is!

Filament is available in lots of different colours, so if you want specific colours, he thinks you'd be better to just buy the colours you want. That only works if you print each piece in a single colour for most home-level printers. The acorn version above works well for that, as you can buy just two colours - the base and the "cap", and then choose those colours for the inside bits as well.

Katie Nicholson wrote:

Morfydd St. Clair wrote:Along these lines, can anyone recommend a good introduction to scanning / pattern design process for 3d printers?  I have access to a printer at work and want to copy a specific thing I own.  Any good tutorials and/or software to start with?  Many thanks!

My husband is using FreeCAD to design things to 3D print. He has also scanned his own images into the program to pad out to 3D. He watches tutorials on YouTube and reads the FreeCAD forums to learn how to use the program in general and what he wants to do specifically.

A great place to start is Tinkercad from Autodesk. It's free to sign up and there are some tutorials to get you started. Go to the main page linked above then "Tinker -> 3D Design" and scroll to the bottom to the "Get Started" section. Each of these will walk you through a simple example so you can see how it works. I taught a 7th grade computer class and used this site. All the students were able to design key chains with their name or other simple objects and print them. Freecad works well but is more complicated than Tinkercad. I'd suggest trying Tinkercad first because it's easier to learn and works in a web browser (no software to download and install).

The result of your design will be a 3D design file which is then sliced into layers by another program. This layer file tells the printer what to do. 3D printing is quite slow since each layer is very thin. Check out some YouTube 3D printing videos to get an idea of speed. I don't remember how long it took to print an ocarina but it was probably over night. Large objects can require 24 hours or longer to print.

For the needle case design you could probably print multiples at the same time since they are small. Most of the low cost 3D printers only have one print head (extruder that melts the plastic) so you are limited to one color. Changing color mid-print is possible but more advanced. You can get variegated filament like variegated thread where it cycles through a series of colors.

These designs would probably print with the open (large) end down on the print surface. Each layer would then be a bit smaller as it increases in height. Some complicated designs require printing "support" towers since the hot plastic can't be just extruded into thin air. The support material (from the same filament) is snapped off when the print is finished. The needle holders have a gradual slope that overlaps the previous layer so they could probably be printed without any support.

The threads on the case and cap would be part of the design. The cap should screw onto the case right off the printer. You can print pieces like a bracelet or chain that have hinges or interlock all at once. They can be gently separated once printed to allow them to move like these objects:

Thingiverse (search for fish)

There are a lot of other free designs at Thingiverse.

There are also companies like Shapeways that will make prints to order. Probably spendy, I've never used them or checked on their pricing.

Did this get made for you? I have a printer at the library in hamilton and would be happy to print a few things.

I'm wondering about printing things that I currently use in the garden and feel bad about because they are plastic.  Or maybe making them by hand.

I have read that you can use hemp to make anything plastic can make, and one outfit sells hemp PLA, the "ink" for a 3d printer.  It is compostable, so the bucket/hose/wheelbarrow would not last long, but it would decompose into something nontoxic instead of something problematic.  

Poly pipe, buckets, wheelbarrows--not possible to print in a small 3d printer.  But if I understand the process right, you just pour hot (400 degrees F) PLA stuff into a mold and then wait till it cools.  You could theoretically use another bucket as as mold (a metal one), or two pots.  For a wheelbarrow, a metal wheelbarrow, and for poly pipe it's a bit trickier, but theoretically you could make it in a bunch of lengths.  The material could be heated with a rocket stove.  (No dangerous fumes, as far as I understand, it's all just biomass).

However, pipe is where I really wish society would put some energy into it. I mean, they're already manufacturing the plastic pipes, why not just put that hemp PLA stuff in there instead and control-p print?  

I just got a 3D printer (Ender3v2) and I'm really good with SketchUpPro.
I am marking this forum and will try to knock this project out.
Going forward, I think it would be fun to post 3D print files on the permies digital market, so people can buy the file and have their print the next morning.  

Now, I'm wondering how much it would cost to print and ship the little acorns... Our fiber arts guild does an annual holiday party, and we do swag bags, with fun little gifts in them. I don't think anyone has done anything like those. If the cost wouldn't be prohibitive, it would be an order of 25 - 30.

Would it be more appropriate to make a Permies (theme/ad) exterior?

The acorn example is made of wood.
The cartoon character example is made of plastic.
Maybe the object should not attempt to be natural?

Design note:
- The acorn rolls on a table, but doesn't poke you from a pocket.

Carla Burke wrote:cost to print and ship the little acorns... be an order of 25 - 30.

I think a small USPS box would cost $11.
I think it would be 24 hours of printing and $3 of plastic.

$3 in plastic - but, what about a fair profit? The machines take electricity, the setup & maintenance take time. At $101 for 30, I'll admit, up front, it's more than I can swing - but, it also doesn't make the job worthwhile for you.

Carla Burke wrote:$3 in plastic...

That estimation is for the entire order.
Regular PLA filament is $20/1kg roll.

Does a hackerspace, high school, college, library, or friend near you have a 3D printer?
If so, you could cut out the shipping, which is what I like most about 3D printing.

I am using this as a test case, so please don't worry about me spending time and money to make this work. I want to see if permies digital market would be a good place for a permaculture 3D printing file hub. This is one of two items identified on the forums so far.

Hello.

I have a 3d printer.  When i want to make up a pattern, i first search on " thingiverse" or "STL finder" - since the files you are looking for end with an .stl designation.

If it needs to be modified, i use Meshmixer to cut, paste move or stretch items.

After that, you load the file into a slicing program, that "slices" the model into each individual 3D printed layer.  I use Cura - with this program you can also modify, stretch and adjust the model.  Once you are happy with it, you then load the file into the printer and print !

Some models, use different colours, by either making things like eyes and teeth a seperate printable item, then glueing them in, or arranging the layers one on top of the other - since you can change the colours while it is printing, by changing the filament colour in the printer.


Quick search on Thingiverse ....  hope it helps.

Lots of options.

Davin Hoyt wrote:

Carla Burke wrote:$3 in plastic...

That estimation is for the entire order.
Regular PLA filament is $20/1kg roll.

Does a hackerspace, high school, college, library, or friend near you have a 3D printer?
If so, you could cut out the shipping, which is what I like most about 3D printing.

I am using this as a test case, so please don't worry about me spending time and money to make this work. I want to see if permies digital market would be a good place for a permaculture 3D printing file hub. This is one of two items identified on the forums so far.

Ahh! I thought you meant $3@. That's a huge difference, and one I could do, easily. Thank you!

A small little item like an acorn box should be relatively cheap to do....

As an example, the sign i made for the house, took a couple of days, with a colour change part way through.
Again, downloaded an entire library of letters and numbers, then just modified it too my use.

Lots of pictures. 😁

Dave Lotte wrote:I have a 3d printer.

What model?

Dave Lotte wrote:I use Cura.

Free or paid version?

Dave Lotte wrote:...then glueing them in...

What glue do you use?

Do y'all really want an acorn though? Can I convince you to dream some other object up? :)

Like...
a pig,
a great pyrenees,
something Paul talks about,
something Jeff Lawton talks about,
something Sepp Holzer talks about,
what does Opaline think,
a mini wofati,
Toots the van...

Just wanted to poke the imagination one last time before starting a long journey of 3D modeling. ;)

L. Johnson wrote:Two types of thread being discussed make this a little wonky... haha

If the cap screws on it will have screw threads. These are made with screw taps in the appropriate diameter, nothing particularly special.

I think you could pretty easily do a friction fit cap too though.

The friction cap is a luer-lock type lock which is a 1/4 twist on and 1/4 twist off. The angle of the bevel is approx 1.8 degrees from centre (patent information).  This cannot be pulled  off without twisting.
I think that one and a half threads should be sufficient for a threaded cap.

Carla Burke wrote:Personally, I'd love it to be sheep, goats, or bunnies, because these are for a fiber arts guild

Sounds like a plan!

Dave Lotte wrote:I have a 3d printer.
What model?

CR10V3 - bed size 30cm x30cm x40 cm

Dave Lotte wrote:I use Cura.
Free or paid version?

Free version always. Cura and Meshmixer both.  😁

Dave Lotte wrote:...then glueing them in...
What glue do you use?

2 part epoxy - good adhesion so far ...

Some of my projects so far....
Gold dragon - 2 day print.  ( large layers - quick print 1 mm nozzle size )
Black dragon - 4 day print ( more detail - smaller layers .04 mm )
4 foot rc cruise ship
Shaver holder
Tooth brush charger holder

I did a sketch to document the dimensions Carla gave me in Purple Moosages.

Notes:
1) Print everything with white filament, except the thimble (where I will use silver filament).
2) Screw caps will require at least 1.5 rotations to secure.
3) Measure a thimble to acquire dimensions.
4) Slow print thread holder for smoot surfaces.
5) Complete 30 prints well before Christmas.
6) Place a web address on the underside.
7) Prevent rolling.
8) Small cap is white for easy visibility; less likely to get lost.
9) 2mm depth might need increasing.

Lovin this thread for woodcarving inspo!

Davin, would a 4th Grove for thread be too much to add?

i really liked the acorn, but i also really like how you remove the sheep’s butt!

I really like the sheep as well - I think it fits better with the sewing/fiber theme than the acorn does.