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Anyone got a 3D printer and want to make my life better?

greg mosser

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posted 10 months ago

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Jay Angler wrote:I really like the sheep as well - I think it fits better with the sewing/fiber theme than the acorn does.

oh, agreed, i’m just a nut guy!

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Carla Burke wrote:would a 4th Grove for thread be too much to add?

Yes.
Let's see.
I estimate 10 mm between peaks.
Do you like the (thread) slopes on the acorn example?
Should the (thread) valley measure more than 2 mm?
What measurements do you forecast?

Per overall size of sheep, what do you estimate?
What is comfortable in your opinion?
My estimate is 70 mm interior hollow.
Maybe we can have the exterior (front to back) dimension at 85 mm.
I think the sheep will appear skinny.
It could be 45 mm wide, but is that overkill?
Is my length of 85 mm overkill?

Per thimble measurements, are all thimbles the same?
I have a thimble at my house that I can model.
Do you have any special notes of thimble diameters or/and textures?
Maybe that is where we can slip an advertisement?

Note:
1) I talk in millimeters because of the printer output / language.
2) The example acorn screw top alignment does not matter. I think the butt of the sheep alignment should be made NOT to matter (in the final design). Meaning, I think the butt of the sheep should be a dome shape.
3) Design for four thread valleys.

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Davin Hoyt

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I didn't realize the acorn file was created.
I thought that was wooden.
I want to continue with the sheep idea, but we have a backup plan. ;)
The file is $2, if anybody wants to cut to the finish line.
And by the way, my printer was only $217 on amazon.

Note:
1) This is what a print file / bed arrangement looks like.

printer_acorn01.jpg

Carla Burke

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posted 10 months ago

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The acorn guts look perfect, for my wants, honestly - including the thimble. I *think* most items like this would likely be easiest, made with an 'average' size thimble, and yes - they do come in various sizes, but I'm not sure what they are. They are typically textured similarly to a golf ball, but only on the... 'roof'(?) - at the tip, lol. I've always just stuck them on which ever finger it felt relatively comfy on, and used that finger for the pushing. It does look to be more than a mere 2mm groove on the thread holder, though - and 3 or 4mm would hold substantially more or thicker thread.

My struggle with dimensions is not knowing how thick the walls need to be to survive pockets and purses. I don't see anything wrong with a bit more space on the interior of the sheep than the diameter of the thimble, to adjust its proportions. The added space would allow for other little tidbits to be added, like tiny buttons, snaps, hooks & eyes, a silicone gripper, etc.

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Dave Lotte

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Jay Angler wrote:I really like the sheep as well - I think it fits better with the sewing/fiber theme than the acorn does.

Did a quick search on Thingiverse.com , lots of sheep stuff, just nothing with a screw top... its a good site for ideas.

Screenshot_20231025-133417.jpg

Screenshot_20231025-134029.jpg

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Dave Lotte

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Carla Burke wrote: It does look to be more than a mere 2mm groove on the thread holder, though - and 3 or 4mm would hold substantially more or thicker thread.

Now you have me wondering if i can cut off the threads on the acorn model and use the Meshmixer program to attach em to the sheeps butt. 😁😁😁

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Jay Angler

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Dave Lotte wrote:Did a quick search on Thingiverse.com , lots of sheep stuff, just nothing with a screw top... its a good site for ideas.

So to me, the first picture totally looks like a sheep.

The second picture... hmmm... some alien creature trying to pretend it's a sheep? A pig in a poor quality sheep Hallowe'en costume? The second picture just doesn't do it for me!

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Carla Burke

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Jay Angler wrote:The second picture... hmmm... some alien creature trying to pretend it's a sheep? A pig in a poor quality sheep Hallowe'en costume? The second picture just doesn't do it for me!

I have to agree. I definitely like the first one better, though I'm not sure legs are going to be a great idea, if this is to be something carried in a pocket or purse, as they'll likely break off, catch on things, etc. I was thinking more along the lines of one lying down - like in the 'loaf' pose. That would keep it from rolling off a work surface, without the addition of legs.

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Carla Burke wrote: though I'm not sure legs are going to be a great idea,

Those liitle stumps should not be a problem 😁.

Downloaded a few patterns off thingiverse, and will have to tinker a bit.... adding a threaded cap to a sheeps butt is a challenge... 😁😁

Screenshot_20231027-134151.jpg

Screenshot_20231027-134430.jpg

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Davin Hoyt

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Carla Burke wrote:...not knowing how thick the walls need to be to survive pockets and purses.

I estimate 2 mm.

Davin Hoyt

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Lately, I plug new ideas into AI art generators to kickstart them in my head.

Here are some sheep textures.

sheep_sew_texture_study01.jpg

Sheep sewing kit exterior texture ideas.

Davin Hoyt

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Slowly developing the model within the dimensions discussed.

Early morning brain fart: made 5 valleys instead of 4.

SEW_PLAN_01-pic01.jpg

Jay Angler

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Davin Hoyt wrote:Early morning brain fart: made 5 valleys instead of 4.

That got me thinking. Sometimes we have thicker thread vs thinner. Some colours you need more of than others.

Would there be any benefit of not having the valleys all the same size?

Would that be any harder to make?

Just thoughts...

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Davin Hoyt

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Jay Angler wrote:Would that be any harder to make?

It would not be harder to make.

Davin Hoyt

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I started making the thimble... and my computer didn't like the massive number of spheres (calculating/rendering the geometry).

I'm going to make more rigid shapes going forward.

SEW_PLAN_02_pic-02.jpg

Davin Hoyt

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Update on the thimble.

SEW_PLAN_03_pic-03.jpg

Carla Burke

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Hey, Davin, can you put more texturing on the top of the thimble? That's the part most used, for pushing the needles through.

Davin Hoyt

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Carla Burke wrote:Hey, Davin, can you put more texturing on the top of the thimble?

Yes. Great point!

SEW_PLAN_04_pic-01.jpg

Davin Hoyt

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Thinking about the screw was harder than I thought.

This has a hollow area inside of it that measures 50 mm deep, and 7 mm in diameter.

The valleys have different widths. I can change that to what ever you want.

SEW_PLAN_04_pic-02.jpg

Davin Hoyt

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I added ridges to the screw end's outer surface.

SEW_PLAN_04_pic-03.jpg

Carla Burke

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Thank you! That will make it MUCH easier on my poor, achy hands!

Davin Hoyt

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The idea here is to sketch out orthogonal views, then copy and extrude their overlaps in the center.

I am keeping the interior mass in mind as I do this.

The model will be so small that some of these rigid shapes will not be noticeable.

SEW_PLAN_04_pic-04.jpg

Davin Hoyt

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Preparing to extrude to make solids.

I will add wool coat shapes to the exterior. Maybe in this same way.

I will need to subtract as much interior as possible afterwards.

Then, I will model the screw (separating the butt and stomach).

This is the plan at least. :)

SEW_PLAN_04_pic-05.jpg

Carla Burke

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Extra space inside will leave room for other items - as long as the butt hole (lol - sorry) is big enough to easily get other stuff in and out.

Davin Hoyt

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I moved the screw forward to the sheep's chest, because this is where the model is a consistent circle (in section).

SEW_PLAN_04_pic-07.jpg

Peter E Johnson

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I tried to stick a threaded model inside of the sheep, but I've never used Meshmixer before which makes it a bit of a steep learning curve. I couldn't figure out how to keep the inserted hollow part hollow, and fill in the gap between them.

mm1.png

mm2.png

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Davin Hoyt

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Peter E Johnson wrote:I tried to stick a threaded model inside of the sheep, but I've never used Meshmixer before which makes it a bit of a steep learning curve. I couldn't figure out how to keep the inserted hollow part hollow, and fill in the gap between them.

I don't know Meshmixer, but I would try to make "solids" and "subtract" from each other.

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Davin Hoyt wrote:
I don't know Meshmixer, but I would try to make "solids" and "subtract" from each other.

Yup. Click on the body of the sheep, hold shift key, click on circle object.
A small menu should pop up, you want bolean difference ( makes a hole by subtracting one from the other ).
Me, i make a copy of the item i am subtracting before doing all this, as the second item you click on goes away when you do this...
I am working on getting the threads lined up right on the sheeps butt, the small experiment i did shows that the threads need to be turned 180 degrees to tighten properly...

Youtube is a wonderfull thing.

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Dave Lotte

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Peter E Johnson wrote:couldn't figure out how to keep the inserted hollow part hollow, and fill in the gap between them.

I make a copy of the item i want to insert, use the bolean difference menu to subtract one, (previous post ) then reinsert the copy and combine the two.

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Well, my little experiment did not work .... again.
Turned the threads 180 degrees, and still have a gap.
Gonna have to try a different approach ( second picture )

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Dave Lotte

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Had a bit more time, so i tinkered with the sheeps butt 😁😁😁

"Crazy is trying the same thing over and over and expecting a different result".

Trying too add threads to the model did not work - twice, so instead of trying too add threads and then print.
I am going to...
Print, then add threads.
First, i used Meshmixer too subtract a hole in the sheep, so i could epoxy in a threaded holder, then i can put it together, squeeze it tight - with everything lined up properly and when the epozy sets... it should screw on nice and tight.
We will see.

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I did find this complete kit on Thingiverse, thimble is the threaded lid ....

Just need someone with a printer ...

Screenshot_20231107-093954.jpg

20231107_094041.jpg

20231107_094105.jpg

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Sienna Scott

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Wanted to give this a try- I brought the original acorn model last year and it's been a great way to carry medication or salves around town- I have a printer and make a bunch of models myself.
I have to edit the screw angle, but what's your thoughts on this? (also I already have the thimble, and spool. it's just a matter of printing them for the sheep.
(also if anyone wants me to print them something, let me know. I can print a few things with the pla I have, or I can paint the final result to the desired color.) I'll upload the final product to thingiverse & printables)

sheepstart.PNG

Blob that kinda looks like a sheep, starting in blender

sheepstarts.PNG

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Still working on my plan to print sheep first, then install threads - to get a nice tight fit on the 2 halfs of the body...

Work in progress, but i cant find my sand paper or my drills 😁😁...must be out in the Hobbit home.
The thimble part fits flush, but the cylinder is a tad big... . Dont want to reprint the body just yet.

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Sienna Scott

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Fixed and printed in white- ah but my PLA was old, so not perfect, but since these are just for me....well that's fine.
Link to model on printables.com

I'll stop hijacking the thread now c:

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Sienna Scott wrote:
I'll stop hijacking the thread now c:

Not hijacking.... just motivating others, by showing your progress.... 😁😁

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WOW! This thread is on fire!

Here is my progress pic. Putting some texture on the outside of the sheep.

SEW_PLAN_06_pic-01.jpg

Davin Hoyt

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I laid the model out for print.

The slicing software didn't like some of the sheep puff... so I deleted the puff for now to make a test print.

Estimated time on test print is 12 hours, yikes!

SEW_PLAN_09_pic-01.jpg

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IMG-7659.jpg

Start of test print of Sheep sewing kit.

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Davin Hoyt wrote:estimated time on test print is 12 hours, yikes!

Agreed. My first slice attempt, was around 15 - 20 hours. If this thing was any bigger, i would switch to a 1 mm nozzle. 😁
Increasing layer height, reducing infill and speeding it up a bit did help.

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