Lamps and their wiring vary greatly, just be safe when pursuing this BB
To complete this BB, the minimum requirements are:
- repair a lamp
- this is a true repair, not just replacing a light bulb
To show you've completed this Badge Bit, you must provide:
- a before picture of the damage that is causing the lamp to not function
- an after picture of the repaired part
- an after picture of the lamp illuminated
- OR post a 2 minute video of you fixing the lamp and it working
Hello Permies community. This is my first attempt at the PEP program. I have chosen to fix a lamp and here are the steps I've taken. The full in-depth post can be seen at Permarecycling Lamp Repair
The lamp repair I will demonstrate is the license plate light from our truck that’s been out for years.
This style of lamp socket grounds through its mount so my first thought was to check for a proper ground at the socket. I filed the rust and paint off two areas just under the plate to bare metal to attach my test leads. I checked for continuity between the two bare areas of metal then between the bare areas and the light socket which showed good continuity to the light. Next step was to check for power or a bad filament.
I probed the wire many times but was unable to find any voltage in the circuit. I chased the wiring and came to the end of the wire which was not attached to anything nor was there anything to attach it to. I removed this lamp from the circuit and tested it at the battery. It did not light so I actually had two issues: no power and a bad filament.
Before installing the new lamp housing I filed away the rust inside its mount then I applied some dielectric grease to the ground area to prevent future rust issues. I decided to tie into the clearance light circuit since it was close and worked. I unplugged the center clearance light and applied its 12 volt current to the pigtail on my new license plate light to be sure it worked inside the mounting area.
Now I had to tie into the circuit. I clipped the wire going to the center clearance light socket then twisted the license plate light wire to it. I then applied dielectric grease to the bare copper and a bit of RTV to the wire casings to keep water out of the connection. I much prefer soldering wires in extreme environments and may come back to this in the future but for now I’m using a heat shrink type crimp connector. All the other wires under this area were crimped and they are still working.