Dale's Bodyshop and Auto Electric

I figured my 1980 truck was worth around $400 before an idiot backed it into a pile of logs while it was loaded with slabs. It bent the box and cab quite a bit.

The body has some rust and was becoming unsightly. The tail lights were so loose that they bounced and rattled. Rain flowed freely into the lights. But how much do you spend on a vehicle of this value ?

Photos. 1. Rust has set in on the rear fenders.

2. Rattley lights. The spots for screws to hold them in place are rusted away.

3. More truck cancer.

1. This is the damage done by the logs.

2. One day when I reved the engine upon starting the truck, the metal fan blade flew off and popped through the hood. It hit at a spot where the inner ribbing runs, so it went through two layers of metal. Imagine if a mechanic were working on it at the time. "OK, rev it." Deadly.

The Solution

I found $2 worth of duct tape and set about to fix the truck once and for all.

1. Look at the beautiful lines along the fenders. A fix like this can last 8 months or more.

2. The other side is also a thing of beauty.

3. Not only will these lights no longer rattle, the tape seals out water and adds extra reflectively.

As an added bonus, I've painted the inner workings of the tailgate so that the orange paint is visible when I'm hauling with the gate down, but all looks normal when It's up.

All of this took half an hour to complete.

I'm open for business, should you wish to pimp your ride. Please form an orderly queue and all will be served in good time. No pushing !

Don't fix it up too nice. Then somebody might want to steal it.

when it finally gives it up, that bed in the back would make a fine raised bed .

since people want to play demolition derby with it, you might consider filling the panels with cement like the duke boys do .

Somewhere xzibit is really jealous right now.

1.Here is how the tail gate looks from the side. It is visible in low light and reflects headlights well. I often spray a few dots of this paint onto the side and end of long loads.

2. The next big repair is planned for this area. When I'm on a site that has an excavator, I'll get the operator to carefully reach the teeth of his bucket through the window hole and then yoink hard on the back of the seat to straighten out this mess. I'll protect the seat with some 2x8 and have the truck in neutral with the brakes on.

3. Five years ago the electrical system started blowing fuses whenever the brakes and signals were used together. A new wiring harness was recommended. Rather than choose that expensive option, I spent $30 for new signal lights for each corner. I wired them directly to the battery, thus bypassing the existing problems. Two light switches, one for left and one for right activate the signals. Both switched up gives 4 way flashers. This setup bypassed the green lights that indicate that the signals are working, so I suspended the clicker into a spot where I can hear that the signals are working.

Dale Hodgins wrote:

I found $2 worth of duct tape and set about to fix the truck once and for all.

Red Green would be proud!!

In the 70's my freind had a 1950 chevy truck that his dad had painted reddish orange with green trim using a paint brush. We called it the Great Pumpkin .
You should think about it.

Dale, did you somehow tie your new lights in to the flasher relay, or did you find a light with it's own flasher to wire in to your truck?? You use the factory lights for running lights and brakes??
I have to figure out how to take my steering wheel apart to get at the turn signal switch which is kaput (and probably expensive too)...i hate how vehicles are designed to hide and disguise all of the fasteners and fittings so taking dashboards and steering columns apart is a big puzzle...wish it was 1960's landrover and bolted together like a meccanno set...

Kari Gunnlaugsson wrote: Dale, did you somehow tie your new lights in to the flasher relay, or did you find a light with it's own flasher to wire in to your truck?? You use the factory lights for running lights and brakes??
I have to figure out how to take my steering wheel apart to get at the turn signal switch which is kaput (and probably expensive too)...i hate how vehicles are designed to hide and disguise all of the fasteners and fittings so taking dashboards and steering columns apart is a big puzzle...wish it was 1960's landrover and bolted together like a meccanno set...

I unplugged the existing flasher from a spot near the fuse pannel and suspended it so that it can be heard clicking. You can see it directly beneath the steering column. It's wrapped in black tape.

Yes, the brakes, headlights, reverse lights and running lights are all original. Only the signals and 4 way flashers are my creation. The original problem may lie in the wiring harness, the signal switch or in some other area within the steering column. By going direct to battery, there was no need to search for the root of the problem. It's been 5 years without problems.

Soon, I intend to engage in some home surgery. I won't use duct tape.