Foliar calcium chloride spray using Pickle Crisp?

I'm having some blossom end rot on my squash. Instead of buying a calcium chloride spray I would like to make up a solution myself with something I already have in my cupboard - Pickle Crisp.

Problem is, I don't know if Pickle Crisp is anhydrous or dihydrous CaCl2, so I can't calculate how much to use.

Also, I'm unsure if I have the final percent solution correct since I had to back calculate from dilution rates of commercial stock solution - I think what's needed is 0.25%.

Anyone know how much I should use?

I wasn't able to find the specifics on the molecular formulation of the CaCl2 in pickle crisp, but the difference between the non-, mono-, and di-hydrated forms would be negligible for this use and I wouldn't worry about it.  The link below calls for 4 level tablespoons CaCl2 per gallon of water and I suspect (though do not know for sure) that you would want to make sure the foliage leading up to the fruits gets the treatment as this tissue will absorb more of the calcium than the fruit itself.  The vascular system of the plant will move the calcium into the fruit during fruit growth and ingress of water during the process.  Hope this may help!....

https://www.bladenjournal.com/news/agriculture/12867/there-are-ways-to-reduce-blossom-end-rot-in-tomatoes

Edited to add that it should work the same way with squash....

Thanks!

This study tested the effect of 10 mM and 15 mM solutions of CaCl2 for foliar feeding on blossom end rot in tomatoes; 15 mM seems very effective.

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Mohamed-Ibrahim-41/post/Does-anyone-know-how-to-treat-a-calcium-chloride-to-plant-leaves/attachment/59d61ef979197b807797d5f8/AS%3A271780598251528%401441808952965/download/4.pdf

The molecular weight of CaCl2 is ~ 111 g, so 111 g/mol

15 millimoles = 111 g/mol * 15/1000 = 1.67 g

So 1.67 g CaCl2 / L water

There are 3.785 L / US  gallon -  6.3 g CaCl2 g per gallon would be needed to make a 15mM solution - which seems a lot less that 4 tablespoons.

Unless I made an error, which is quite possible.

In any case, the new fruit seems okay since I started watering more deeply, so I probably don't need to do this anyway.

I jinxed myself ...

Yesterday it got up to 101° F, one kabocha wilted and now the fruit it had on its longest vine are caput.  So I will start foliar feeding as soon as I can figure out how to get my new hand pump spray thing-y to unlock. If squash are like tomatoes, then according to the article, the feeding should also increase vitamin C and possibly carotenoid content ( in tomatoes it increased lycopene, but squash don't make lycopene).

The study author included some detergent as a wetting agent so I will add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the solution. He only fed 2x, I guess I will try doing it once a week. IDK, many sources say foliar feeding does not work. Should be interesting.

I'm pretty sure this is not a lack of pollination issue since it looks like a wasp spring break beach party in the blossoms.

Is it possible the kabocha will produce more female flowers along that vine or will new production just be from the growing tip on? If it's the latter, should I just cut the vine as it's getting super long & unruly?

Anyone have tips for managing heat stress in humid areas? Should I be putting up some shade cloth at mid-day? Like I mentioned, I am watering deeply now with watering can at the base of the plants in the AM so as to try to not get things mildew-y.